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Posted

alright so heres the scoop, i picked up this 02 shee and it was running great. now it seems to have a slight knock in the bottom end. and it doesnt want to idle. its not a hard knock, but i cant really tell where its coming from. the crank or farther back in the tranny. thing is, the guy i got this off said that he had just changed the oil in the trans. and im wondering if he used the wrong oil and really munched this thing. i pulled the plugs and turned the engine over by hand to see if i could feel any friction thinking maybe a rod beaing had failed but i cant seem to feel any. I had a blaster do that once and the crank rubbed on the case. anyways, any input would be greatly appreciated. :confused:

Posted

alright so heres the scoop, i picked up this 02 shee and it was running great. now it seems to have a slight knock in the bottom end. and it doesnt want to idle. its not a hard knock, but i cant really tell where its coming from. the crank or farther back in the tranny. thing is, the guy i got this off said that he had just changed the oil in the trans. and im wondering if he used the wrong oil and really munched this thing. i pulled the plugs and turned the engine over by hand to see if i could feel any friction thinking maybe a rod beaing had failed but i cant seem to feel any. I had a blaster do that once and the crank rubbed on the case. anyways, any input would be greatly appreciated. :confused:

welcome to the site, there is tons of info here for whatever you need. the first things to check are the compression to make sure it's even on both sides, the flywheel, and the gears behind the clutch cover. does it go away when you pull the clutch in? in gear? the kicker idler gear can wobble and tap the clutch basket gear, the clutch gear can wear on the basket and make a gear knock, the water pump can make noise, and the clutch/bushings can make rattle. the crank itself can have a bad bearing, which needs a bit more tear-down to inspect. you would have to pull the cyls first to check the rods, then split the cases if you cannot see anything when you have it that far down. unwelded cranks have also been known to star to separate at the rod pin, which will just show as excessive side clearance on the rod. you can hold a broomstick or long screwdriver to your ear to pinpoint the knock placing the other end in different areas.

Posted

Welcome to BHQ !! X-2 on what AK said . Think of it as a doctors stethiscope. Press it to ear right by opening to hear noise. Tons of help and info on this site. Might also want to pick up a Clymers manual for it, step by step how to for banshee.

Posted

great thanks guys. honestly I dont know if it does it when i pull in the clutch or in gear. i will try tonight. i did buy a book yesterday. again thanks so much guys i will post after I look into it a little more.

Posted

Alright, so I kicked her over when I got home from work and shee came to life first revolution. No knock...for about 30 seconds. Clutch engaged, in gear doesn't matter. The knock is solid. Using a dowell I can hear it througout the engine it doesn't really seem any louder from one side to the other.from front to rear of the block. (Of course I am half def from years of eardrum abuse) so I've got a compression tester on the way. Correct me if I'm wrong, pull plugs, hook it up and test each one with throttle wide open? what should it have for compression?

Posted

you only pull one plug at a time to check compression. make sure you pull the spark plug boots off BOTH plugs though so that you dont accidentally start it up while youre checking compression.

 

compression depends on a number of things. altitude and dome size will directly affect it. without knowing either of those we cant really say what it should be.

Posted

you only pull one plug at a time to check compression. make sure you pull the spark plug boots off BOTH plugs though so that you dont accidentally start it up while youre checking compression.

 

compression depends on a number of things. altitude and dome size will directly affect it. without knowing either of those we cant really say what it should be.

Alright. I do hold the throttle open though right? If one cyl. Is low would it be knocking because of that? I'm just hoping I don't have to split the case.

Posted

Alright. I do hold the throttle open though right? If one cyl. Is low would it be knocking because of that? I'm just hoping I don't have to split the case.

 

Right what Loco said. You pull one plug out, install the comp tester. Then With throttle wide open you start kicking and kicking until the neddle stops moving and that will ultimately be your compression for that cylinder. Repeat for the other side

Posted

If one cyl is 5psi or more different, then that indicates a problem in the topend that could be related to the knock

Alright. So I've got 110 and 120psi. Guess I'm gonna yank the topend apart. Hopefully the bottom end is alright.

Posted

Worn rings won't cause a knocking sound.If you had a loose rod bearing it could cause low compression and a knocking sound.You could have a worn bore or a collapsed or a broken piston skirt.With a piston problem the noise is usually louder when it is cold.Do you have the top end torn apart?The knock could be worn clutch basket cusions,the big gear on the back of the clutch basket is it really loose?It will move back and forth some.If you throw a top end kit on your motor and the kock is in the side cover when you are done you will still have the knock.

Posted

welcome to the site dude. As you have seen for yourself theres lots of good people and knowledge here. Hit up us site sponsors for all your needs. Shoot me a pm when you get the topend off and I can get you some quotes on new parts. Welcome to your new addiction bro. :headbang:

Posted

Worn rings won't cause a knocking sound.If you had a loose rod bearing it could cause low compression and a knocking sound.You could have a worn bore or a collapsed or a broken piston skirt.With a piston problem the noise is usually louder when it is cold.Do you have the top end torn apart?The knock could be worn clutch basket cusions,the big gear on the back of the clutch basket is it really loose?It will move back and forth some.If you throw a top end kit on your motor and the kock is in the side cover when you are done you will still have the knock.

Pulled the clutch cover everything looked alright. Pulled the top end. The left cyl was 10 psi lower. 110 and 120. The pistons and cyl.s look about the same. But I was surprised by how much slop the wristpins have. Should there be any slop there? also How much side to side play can the rods have on the crank pins?(If any) They are both about the same and I can slide the rods side to side on the crank pins maybe 1/8 of an inch.

Posted

Pulled the clutch cover everything looked alright. Pulled the top end. The left cyl was 10 psi lower. 110 and 120. The pistons and cyl.s look about the same. But I was surprised by how much slop the wristpins have. Should there be any slop there? also How much side to side play can the rods have on the crank pins?(If any) They are both about the same and I can slide the rods side to side on the crank pins maybe 1/8 of an inch.

By slop in the wristpin needle bearings I guess it isn't as bad as I thought. On second look the "slop" is side to side, it just seemed like a lot of movement to me. I pulled the pistons off and rotated the crank while holding and "thumping the tops of the rods trying to feel for play in the rod bearings, the only play I can feel is them sliding side to side. The worst one is the left side. It moves aprox. 1/8 of an inch. Is that the knock? Or is that normal? Do you guys think its just in the top end? The pistons and cyl's are scored, but not really bad.I will replace them but theres No broken skirts or anything. the only gear under the clutchcover that has a little play is the one between the kicker and the large gear behind the clutch.

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