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Hey guys, please help me, I have an HJR hillshooter port job, cpi inframes, 33 pwk's , boss intake and pods, v-force 3 reeds, noss head with 18 cc domes, + 4 timing, at 1000' running 110 octane, +4 swing arm, 21x12x8 8 paddle hauler. When launching in 2nd gear I have a bog for a cpl seconds before it really takes off. My jetting right now is 158 main, CEL needle middle clip, 50 pilot, air screw 2 turns out. I've tried going to a 48 pilot with air screw from 1 half turn out to 3 turns out and no difference, went to 45 pilot from 1 half turn out to 3 turns out and no difference, now i'm back up to a 50 pilot, I've tried air screw from 1half to 3 turns out with the 50 and still has the same bog. I dont know where to go from here. I dont have anywhere where i can run long enough at wot to do a plug chop but the top end pulls very hard. I noticed that when the bike is idleing and I stab the throttle it bogs and also when turning the idle screws in or out there is no change in idle speed.

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Take the needles out and put the clips lower on the needle (2nd or 3rd from bottom). That usually helps out a lot. If that doesn't work then you might need a entirely new set of needles. Not too big of a deal though man try not to get too stressed out. My banshee gave me a bunch of tuning problems and impatience and frustration only makes it worse :evil: .

Good luck let us know if that helped.

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If the squish clearance wasn't checked during assembly, check it. If there is too much clearance it can hurt the low rpm throttle response.

 

-David

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ok I lied, when i did go down to a 45 pilot the bogging got way worse thats why i went back up. as far as the e-brake goes, its been gone since i got the bike, the bike ran good before i ported and added all the other mods, I know its not the gearing because i had the stock tires on and it did the same thing on hard packed dirt also. what kind of solder do you guys use when checking squish? I'll check the squish and if its good then i'll try moving the needle. do you think I should go leaner or richer on the needle first? thanks for your help guys!!!

Also what about the idle screws not having any effect on the idle speed???

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ok I lied, when i did go down to a 45 pilot the bogging got way worse thats why i went back up. as far as the e-brake goes, its been gone since i got the bike, the bike ran good before i ported and added all the other mods, I know its not the gearing because i had the stock tires on and it did the same thing on hard packed dirt also. what kind of solder do you guys use when checking squish? I'll check the squish and if its good then i'll try moving the needle. do you think I should go leaner or richer on the needle first? thanks for your help guys!!!

Also what about the idle screws not having any effect on the idle speed???

first thing, get some slack in your throttle cable. that is why your idle screws are not having any affect, and will throw your pilot/ needle setting way off. you may need to go richer on the needle, but you need to get the slack first, then set your needle for midrange throttle, and move to the pilot for direct-off idle. you should be able to raise the rpm's with the airscrews when the pilot is close. it should go up, then back down within 0.5-3 turns from seated

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ok I lied, when i did go down to a 45 pilot the bogging got way worse thats why i went back up. as far as the e-brake goes, its been gone since i got the bike, the bike ran good before i ported and added all the other mods, I know its not the gearing because i had the stock tires on and it did the same thing on hard packed dirt also. what kind of solder do you guys use when checking squish? I'll check the squish and if its good then i'll try moving the needle. do you think I should go leaner or richer on the needle first? thanks for your help guys!!!

Also what about the idle screws not having any effect on the idle speed???

 

 

sounds to me like you need to go bigger still on the pilot. you went down it got worse you went back to 50 it improved. the only other thing that would really cause the mixture screws to not adjust is plugged circuits. I kinda doubt both would be plugged though so I would jet it farther maybe jump up a couple of sizes

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like i said, you'll never get it right untill the idle screws move the slides up and all the way down. you'll be wasting jets getting the mixture right, only to find the idle won't go down, then turn around and go back the other way with jetting once you get it fixed. not sayin there's no airleak, or that the jetting is right, just that there is no need to chase your tail twice

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like i said, you'll never get it right untill the idle screws move the slides up and all the way down. you'll be wasting jets getting the mixture right, only to find the idle won't go down, then turn around and go back the other way with jetting once you get it fixed. not sayin there's no airleak, or that the jetting is right, just that there is no need to chase your tail twice

 

are you talking about the screws on top of the carbs because I meant the idle screws on the side of the carbs. there is plenty of slack on the cable. when i turn the idle screws on the sides of the carbs there is no change in idle speed. also the bike seems to run better when i first start riding it but as it completley warmed up it starts to run worse.

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I'm new to the banshee's but I'm a Marine Tech. I've had a mid bog on mine and was in the midst of tuning it when I decided to do the tors elimination. When I was done I couldn't get it to idle at all. Ended up be the needle and seat. I haven't got them istalled yet but my thinking is that they were the cause of the mid bog too will report back after this weekend

 

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