Snopczynski Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 dont need to, its in the post.. move on. Prove it! Copy and paste the entire sentence or quote it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. no, its not. not in the least bit, especially if you just buy the bracket. I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it. benefit is that it looks cleaner, and centralizes all your electrical shit. its harder to test the wiring, its harder to get to it if there is a problem, and it takes some serious skill to solder it and heat shrink it all so it looks good. why is it any harder? so what if you had to move a piece of plactic. i didnt solder anything on mine. i used heat shrink, but i didnt take any classes on it. no skill involved. You have hoses and cables running everywhere. BS. hoses and cables are right in the engine bay.. what does that have to do with the harness anyway? Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. so its a pain without or with the expensive crimping stuff?? so doing it any other way than with the crimper is wrong? you sure are telling A LOT of people they are wrong. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean. thats the point, you dont want it to look stock. my harness does not look stock. if i wanted a stock look, i wouldve left it alone. my shit looks pretty clean, i dont think you can argue that. waterproof? ive washed my shit with a pressure washer several times and its always started right back up.. must be a miracle!! Moving components around is a pain in the ass and more work than its worth. no its really not. we spend hours upon hours working on these bikes, but cleaning up the harness and moving the electrical stuff is not worth the time and hassle?? BS. and i know many others will agree. Its just a general pain. you sound like a broken record. Its hard to unbolt the components or disconnect the connectors when they are all crammed up under the front plastics too. not at all.. i can get to mine with my plastic on.. and i can reach everything! lions, tigers and bears OH MY!! Shrink tube and electrical tape will not give you quick disconnects and keep sand and water out. bullshit again!! ive been on 3 dune trips with this setup. never an issue. i have quick disconnects.. see all those plugs!! are you blind?? never had a water issue either.. ok, i can go on forever.. this is just some of the shit i found quickly.. are you saying you didnt say these things?? pretty clear and simple to me.. everything you said is complete BULLSHIT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 All those things are my opinions based on what I dont want to deal with (negatives) compared to the positives you gain from the modification. Your telling everyone that I said it cant be done without using special tools. I said I would not do it without making the harness look completely stock, with the quick disconnects. To use all the factory colored wiring and factory disconnects you need the tool to crimp the ends on the wiring. I did not tell anyone it cant be done without special tools. Just deal with the fact that someone has an opposite view from you and live with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 Damn! Are you guys married? SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeNick Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 whats your problem with "making it personal"? it is personal. you said you dont like doing it. you, PERSONALLY, dont like doing it. youre about retarded. you and your cousins. This has to be the funniest of all these posts.. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 This has to be the funniest of all these posts.. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: I like the one where he said I was on his balls better. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misssppelllleddd Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 This post is more entertaining than the "85hp Banshee on pump fuel" post! :yelrotflmao: I thought about shortening the harness but when I bought a Dyna FS CDI, the instructions told me not to shorten the wiring harness or any of the wires at that matter. So I didn't. But I did put a tether kill switch on and it seems to work fine. Just used electrical tape. Probably not the best idea. I removed the TORS and headlights and I never shrink wrapped the connector ends or capped them. I really think I should. What are good materials to use to cap the connectors so I can still use them if I want to put the headlights back on? And I have never shrink wrapped anything before so I don't know how to do it. So I guess I'm :shoothead: ? Lol! Anyways to be serious, I would like some help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 This post is more entertaining than the "85hp Banshee on pump fuel" post! :yelrotflmao: I thought about shortening the harness but when I bought a Dyna FS CDI, the instructions told me not to shorten the wiring harness or any of the wires at that matter. So I didn't. But I did put a tether kill switch on and it seems to work fine. Just used electrical tape. Probably not the best idea. I removed the TORS and headlights and I never shrink wrapped the connector ends or capped them. I really think I should. What are good materials to use to cap the connectors so I can still use them if I want to put the headlights back on? And I have never shrink wrapped anything before so I don't know how to do it. So I guess I'm :shoothead: ? Lol! Anyways to be serious, I would like some help with this. I run a dyna fs, none of my cdi wiring has been shortened though. I run it back in the stock position. I did go through my harness and cut out all the tors and add in a battery and all that. I dont see much of an issue with changing the cdi wiring. Its just like Daj said earlier, you have to watch the interference with the coil and thats about it. Depending on the year of the bike, you may have to ground the park brake wire if you get rid of some stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 no, its not. not in the least bit, especially if you just buy the bracket. benefit is that it looks cleaner, and centralizes all your electrical shit. why is it any harder? so what if you had to move a piece of plactic. i didnt solder anything on mine. i used heat shrink, but i didnt take any classes on it. no skill involved. BS. hoses and cables are right in the engine bay.. what does that have to do with the harness anyway? so its a pain without or with the expensive crimping stuff?? so doing it any other way than with the crimper is wrong? you sure are telling A LOT of people they are wrong. thats the point, you dont want it to look stock. my harness does not look stock. if i wanted a stock look, i wouldve left it alone. my shit looks pretty clean, i dont think you can argue that. waterproof? ive washed my shit with a pressure washer several times and its always started right back up.. must be a miracle!! no its really not. we spend hours upon hours working on these bikes, but cleaning up the harness and moving the electrical stuff is not worth the time and hassle?? BS. and i know many others will agree. you sound like a broken record. not at all.. i can get to mine with my plastic on.. and i can reach everything! lions, tigers and bears OH MY!! bullshit again!! ive been on 3 dune trips with this setup. never an issue. i have quick disconnects.. see all those plugs!! are you blind?? never had a water issue either.. ok, i can go on forever.. this is just some of the shit i found quickly.. are you saying you didnt say these things?? pretty clear and simple to me.. everything you said is complete BULLSHIT! ok, i disagree with both of you on this, and haven't really seen any letting up. if you want to know my stats, i have been to school for electronics after already having 4 years hands on experience building and repairing stereo equipment, built my first multi meter over 10 years ago, installed some of the first dvd/5.1 surround automotive systems, and more high end systems and lighting than i care to recall. i'm still doing alot of wiring and electrical configurations at work, and frequent o.e. terminal work. i am in no means trying to boast or call you guys dumb or inferior in any way, but i can see that you 2 are on opposite ends of the spectum in preference, not skill. first, loco- chill tf out- you have bread knowledge to 3rd grade behavior. i would not boast full force aggressiveness other than at a bar, or fighting event. the most impotant thing, is never put a high voltage output device in close proximity to a low voltage computing device. in ths case, it would cause a hall effect in the cdi, generating a spark scatter, and spark cancellation. next, never use a loose connection for a perminant fix, like twisting the wires together and taping or heatshrink to cover. the wire will develop contact deposits over time, maikint that part of wire less conductive, and i think it's a waste of time and materials. it doesn't take alot of skill to solder, just patience and moderation. if you want quick disconnects, you can just buy some male/ female connectors invariious shapes/ sizes with different insulating options. if you want a stock appearance, you can buy a genaric terminal crimping tool thatr has mix/ match sizes for wire, insulation, and weatherpack crimping. i use the deutch and v-mack tools at work, and a genaric small- gauge at home that does combo crimps, and runs 34 dollars. they do sell some cheaper ones, but if you don't work for a manufacturer, then there is no need to buy the brand specific tools for 99 bucks, although they are really nice :thumbsup: i would never attempt to desuede someone from doing something, but there is nothing wrong with pionting out issues and tribulations in your own experience. in my experience, many people have told me not to do something because it "can't be done" or was "too much work" and either prooved them wrong or realized it's alot of work, but not too much. i would encourage anyone to do the same if they are up to it, because you never know when someone can find a better way. also i would also encourage them to take everyones advice into consideration as well. after all, we are all here to either be positively helpfull, or seek good advice, and if you want to have it out, pm each other, instead of hyjacking someones' thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBAIER1206 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I just finished relocating my cdi and it was rather easy and turned out amazing! I can't believe that I've read 6 pages of this....Where's Judge Judy when you need her...lol :ninja: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atvcraze Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 just a ? if theres no benifit and u hate doing it, y didnt u stop doing it after the first one.... or do it in the first place.... the only benift im looking for is a clean frame .... yeah a clean frame, i hate all that shit in the back, i may do that i my rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mofoka Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I did the same on my stunt bike without any problems. All I did to help reduce any magnetic electrical interference was adding a metal plate in between with some electrical tape covering it. You could always find a better insulator but that was an easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 It took me a total three hours to put the harness in the bike on page1-2 of this post, my harness has been in my bike after 2months of owning it in 06, never had problems or issues and didnt even see it all again till i just did the motor again,three hours of my time with snaking wires through frame,did help that i have spools of wire on hand ,but i didnt need much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 bam, 5 responses from guys with no issues..tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I do put the cdi in the front when I do the relocate. I just keep it about 1 foot away from the coil and the radiator sits in between the two components. This is the most recent one I did about 2 months ago on my best friends bike. He runs a dyna cdi too, so that was fun dealing with the dip switch pig tail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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