what's the pros and cons

[JasonsBanshee]

I'm starting to put together my list of stuff to get to build my 4mil. When I got into looking for the crank I've found that there are two different kinds. One is a stock rod length crank and one is a long rod crank. I believe with a long rod that I'll have to have the domes in the head machined and run 795 pistons and with the standard rod I would only have to run 795 pistons. Is there any reasons to go one way or the other?

[vulvafan537240]

youre gonna have to machine the domes either way. the long rod is a 115mm rod, the standard is 110mm. the 795 series piston has the wristpin moved up 5mm for the increased rod length. so if you go with the standard rod, you can use standard pistons. the increased rod length decreases side load on the cylinder wall and is more reliable. the long rod setup isnt too much more expensive if any, so i see no downside to going with it. thats what i went with.

[firebanshee]

I'm starting to put together my list of stuff to get to build my 4mil. When I got into looking for the crank I've found that there are two different kinds. One is a stock rod length crank and one is a long rod crank. I believe with a long rod that I'll have to have the domes in the head machined and run 795 pistons and with the standard rod I would only have to run 795 pistons. Is there any reasons to go one way or the other?

 

I use to run a 4mil short rod crank and it did rev up faster but, i also use to break alot of piston skirts and even broke the bottom of my cylinder liner. I will never run a short rod stroker again, it was pretty quick when it was running.The added stroke of the crank amplifies the side loading of the piston.And as stated in the prior post short rods use stock pistons and you still need cut domes, i would not use spacer plates.

[locogato11283]

long rod is pretty much the standard. puts less stress on the rod. run it.

[Banshee_350_Twin]

lots of things are cleared to me from this topic. as there are no good engine builders here in DUBAI its difficult for me to build a relaiable 4mm stroked banshee without spending alot of cash. so i was thinking to order a machined head or an after market head. but will i need to do anything with the ports or its ok if i left them stock ( is the 4mmstoke porting differant than the stock stroke )

 

 

thanks

[05.Banshee.SE]

So what's involved with going to the short set up? And the long?

 

IE, case porting, specific pistons, machining head/domes, etc.

 

I need to choose a crank for my next mod, but I dont know all of this stuff.

[05.Banshee.SE]

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105503

 

I found this with some more info.

 

Sounds like 115 is the way to go!

 

What things have to be done to a stock bike to run the 115?

--Pistons (as shown in other thread)

--Port Cases? (I have no idea, just askin)

--Cut head and domes (who does this?)

--Don't run a spacer plate.

[vulvafan537240]

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105503

 

I found this with some more info.

 

Sounds like 115 is the way to go!

 

What things have to be done to a stock bike to run the 115?

--Pistons (as shown in other thread)

--Port Cases? (I have no idea, just askin)

--Cut head and domes (who does this?)

--Don't run a spacer plate.

 

the only difference in the long rod and std rod is the 795 pistons for the long rod. case porting is just matching the ports in the case to the jugs and is not required. you can buy stroker domes from noss, pd, or any other cool head manufacturer.

[05.Banshee.SE]

the only difference in the long rod and std rod is the 795 pistons for the long rod. case porting is just matching the ports in the case to the jugs and is not required. you can buy stroker domes from noss, pd, or any other cool head manufacturer.

 

Great response, thanks for all the info sir.

[vulvafan537240]

Great response, thanks for all the info sir.

 

 

:thumbsup:

[fastrthnu]

Im pretty sure you have to get your ports matched too....

[millertime]

why would you need cut domes if you run the 795 pistons ? they are sappose to be made for the long rod stroker with the pin moved to make up for the 2mm offset.. i am just wondering becuse i have all this stuff for my kids banshee i am building for X-mas... i have built my YFZ 450 to a 501 stroker and when you get the pistons for the long rod stroker there is no need for a spacer plate or anything done to the head.. so to me it just doesn't make sense that you would buy stroker pistons then have to cut the domes.. i guess i will find out when i put it together in the next week or so.. i will messure the squish and see where it is at..

but i would think you should be able to run a cool head dome with out cutting it if you are running stroker pistons or why buy the stroker pistons ?... the kid should be happy when he opens all his gifts tommorrow..

[sheefreak]

You need the cut domes to compensate for the stroke. The 795 compensates for the longer rod. Your pistons till come out of the cylinders and you will have a positive deck height. If you put it together w/o cut domes the pistons will hit the domes. I am getting ready to sell a complete 4 mill frag ported setup w/crank, cut domes the whole deal if anyone is interested.

[shanYE west]

You need the cut domes to compensate for the stroke. The 795 compensates for the longer rod. Your pistons till come out of the cylinders and you will have a positive deck height. If you put it together w/o cut domes the pistons will hit the domes. I am getting ready to sell a complete 4 mill frag ported setup w/crank, cut domes the whole deal if anyone is interested.

 

Oh no! Do we have another person going bigger this year?? lol

[firebanshee]

why would you need cut domes if you run the 795 pistons ? they are sappose to be made for the long rod stroker with the pin moved to make up for the 2mm offset.. i am just wondering becuse i have all this stuff for my kids banshee i am building for X-mas... i have built my YFZ 450 to a 501 stroker and when you get the pistons for the long rod stroker there is no need for a spacer plate or anything done to the head.. so to me it just doesn't make sense that you would buy stroker pistons then have to cut the domes.. i guess i will find out when i put it together in the next week or so.. i will messure the squish and see where it is at..

but i would think you should be able to run a cool head dome with out cutting it if you are running stroker pistons or why buy the stroker pistons ?... the kid should be happy when he opens all his gifts tommorrow..

 

795 series pistons are not stroker pistons they are long rod pistons,the wrist pin, or piston pin which ever you call it is moved up 5mils to compenstae for the 115mil lenght connecting rod. People just usually run longer rods when they go stroker to help stop the side loading on the pistons, long rods are the right choice for strokers because the longer stroke amplifies the side loading on the piston and the longer rod changes the working angle to help stop this.

 

The cut domes are to compensate for the crank pin off set to make the longer stroke.A 4mil crank has the crank pin offset out 2mils,so you gain to mils on the top of the stroke and you gain 2mils on the bottom giving you a total of 4mils.So if you are stroking a STOCK cylinder the piston will come out of the top of the cylinder 2mils (.080) so you need to cut your dome that much or your piston will hit your dome.

If you are building a CUB motor that is set up for a stroker crank they have allready compesated for the stroke so the piston would not come out of the cylinder so you would not need to cut your domes but you would still need a 795 series piston if you had a long rod crank.

I have a big bore cub 68mil, which is the same size as a blaster that is bored out .080 and the blaster comes from the factory with a 115mil lenght connecting rod and the banshee comes with a 110mil lenght rod,so i just use blaster pistons in my banshee since i have a long rod crank.