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Timing Key


Badapwned

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I just pulled the flywheel off to put a stock timing key back in my bike so i could use my adjustable timing plate easier. But now im confused on what a stock timing key looks like. When i bought the bike, the guy said he had a +4 timing key, but when I took it out, it was symmetrical, it was NOT set foreword on either side, or offset i guess. It was a symmetric half moon or whatever you want to call it.

 

Thats fine, so the guy lied, no big deal, but I ordered a stock timing key off of ebay, and the one I got WAS offset, which makes me think it is a +4 degrees timing key. But, why would factory depend on a funny offset key as opposed to a symmetrical one.

 

So right now I have an offset key that is suppose to be stock, but i also have a symmetrical key that is suppose to be a +4 timing degree key. Is this correct or am i all F-ed up?

 

Please help!!

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You saved the day lol Thank you so much!!

 

I wonder though, why the heck would 2 people be wrong about the same thing. Totally screwy, the guy i bought the bike from lied, and the guy from ebay lied to lol

 

Wonder what gives.

 

Maybe the guy you bought the bike from, bought the +4 key from the same guy on ebay that sent you the wrong key . LOL. The ebay seller needs to school up on his banshee stuff.

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I put a +4 key in mine. From my understanding the key is used to align the flywheel during installation. The taper and the torque of the nut are actually what holds the flywheel during operation. The only way that the key should break is if the flywheel nut isn't tight enough ( or something else major happens).

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This topic of which is better has been beaten to death.

 

Here's my point every time.

 

Show me how an offset key is stronger than a standard one, and show me a timing key that can be adjusted in increments from 0 to 12 (past the 10 on the plate)....

 

When a 10 or 15 dollar key can do that compared to a 40 dollar plate (shipping...)...I will stock up on keys.

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  • 6 years later...

I am wondering if the people that are having problems with the keys shearing are making sure that both tapers are squeaky clean and dry. Meaning no oil or grease etc... on them.  The shaft taper and the magneto taper need to be carburetor clean and completly dry when you put them back together.

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FFS degree keys are junk........no point in arguing dude........theyre junk.......spend $15 more dollars and by adj plate.

There's always that one type in any crowd......................gravel just let it be lol

 

sent from yo mammy house

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