02_twin

LOL! Seeing as how that went over so well, check this out. I have an extra dog bone... I'm gonna cut my original one in half and splice in about an inch or so of the used one to drop the ass end to match the front. wheeee!

This is how I did mine but it was major surgery. It actually sits lower now than stock. Rides way better.

This is kind of off topic but I was browsing the various Yamaha by country websites a couple days ago and according to Yamaha-Argentina, the Banshee is still in the model line-up there. Along with the 350, the 450 and the 700's. i thought they were only available till 2012 or 2013 in Australia. According to the line-up it's the same red, white and blue color scheme that it was when it was supposedly discontinued. Who knows.

I'm just curious, did you make sure to install the o-rings from the stock pipes into the new pipes? I just got a set of pro spankits and I was somewhat suprised to see that they didn't have o-rings in them.

I am wondering if the people that are having problems with the keys shearing are making sure that both tapers are squeaky clean and dry. Meaning no oil or grease etc... on them. The shaft taper and the magneto taper need to be carburetor clean and completly dry when you put them back together.

I have a Solo chainsaw, which is a German brand, and in the operators manual they call it out as ethanol is not gasoline in the section covering mixing fuel. Basically they were recommending not to use blended fuels like ethanol. Only problem is the only place I know around where I live to get pure gasoline is the airport. Last time I did that it was $6+ USD a gallon. It evaporates so fast though. I found I pretty much had to mix it up as I needed it for the day because the oil/fuel ratio skews pretty quickly when it just sits. I started out with 5 gallons of 50:1 and after about a month it smoked like it was at about 30:1. lol

I'm inclined to agree with this. It takes a pretty good knock with an impact wrench on a puller to even get the magneto off the shaft. I can't see vibration and thermal expansion overcoming that grip plus the strength of the key. Especially when the bolt prevents it from moving back off the taper. The timing key isn't meant to carry a load, it is meant to do just what it does, set position. The taper carries the load. Mainly, the only load on the timing key is that of the magnetic field of the magnets running over the stator poles. Once the magneto begins to rotate it acts like a flywheel. Meaning its inertia tends to drive itself rather than needing some force to move it. Hence the train of thought behind lightening them for quicker response. Also there is a difference between a woodruff key and a keyway. If it were meant to bear load it would be more like the key for the crank gear. Which is an actual keyway. My 2¢ (if its worth that much)

I know this might sound kinda strange but plain old 2 stroke oil makes a great penetrating oil. I once freed a set of channel locks that were rusted bad enough to where you couldn't move them anymore. I laid them in a meatloaf pan and covered them in regular old two stroke oil. I don't remember how long I let them soak but when I finally pulled them out and cleaned them up they were fine.

Mine came with the 14-41 which equals a 2:90 gear ratio. I wanted more punch on the bottom so I went down one on the front and up one on the back. Brought me to a 3:23. It definitely slowed my top speed down quite a bit but with a strong pilot it will pull the front wheels without sitting clear back or pulling the handle bars at all. Only in 1st though. It feels alot like riding this old elsinore I used to have.

This is more of a secondary question than a reply I guess. My bike is stock except the head has been shaved .025" and it has been bored out .010" for new stock pistons. I was wondering if there would be any benefit or danger to jetting a little stronger. Has anyone ever heard of how strong a stock bike can successfully be jetted to before causing problems?

anyone ever run DG's?

You know, I've seen just plain bare upper housings for sale on ebay. Or, I wonder if you could just drill and tap out to a bigger screw size and then bring the end of the new bigger screw down to what the end of your original screw was. I guess it depends on how much stock is left in the hole. You probably wouldn't want to go too thin with it. I know there isn't that much meat there to begin with.

Hey people, new to this site. Been reading it from time to time. I just picked up an 02 right before christmas and have been basically restoring it. It was mainly in stock condition but a lot of stuff had been deleted and the wiring was screwed. Overall it was still in pretty good shape for the year though, just kinda worn and let go and worked on by anyone with pliers and a bolt box. Anyway, this thread prompted me to sign up because every since I had this bike it's been hell to start after it had been sitting a few days. I finally figured out that I could start it by rocking it side to side first and then repeating when it started to die. This was with the choke knob pulled. There were a lot of repairs made in the process, but the latest discovery I made was while cleaning the carbs that neither of my float bowls had a ball plug on the side opposite the bowl drain pipe but there were passages cast into it. So I began tracing the choke circuit and began to realize that the bowl of the carb with the choker must be missing a passage way. So I began to look on ebay at people who had stock carbs for sale to see if my hunch was correct. Sure enough, on the ads that had good enough pictures to see, the choker carb bowl had a ball plug at the very bottom on the outside of the bowl and the non choker didn't. This makes perfect sense to me. If the pick up tube from the choker circuit can't draw fuel from the bowl, it's never going to work right. I think this is why it would run for about 5 seconds then stop if I didn't keep rocking it side to side. I think what was happening was the rocking action must have been allowing enough fuel to spill into the pickup tube passage way to make things happen but was quickly used up and only by rocking the machine again would it fill the tube up again. With the passage way there, the choke circuit can continuously draw from the bowl till the choke is closed. So in essence what I had was a right side float bowl on each carb. Well, I drilled a hole to connect the pickup hole with inlet hole and then drill and tapped for a set screw. Which I loctited in place. I am hoping this cures my cold starting problem as it should allow enough fuel to richen both carbs. I don't see the need to connect the same passage on the right carb bowl because it looks to me like the choke inlet circuit on the right carb goes right to the main bore of the carb. Plus, all of the pairs I have seen for sale have all had just the choker carb bowl drilled and plugged. We'll see...