maxtrax

Interested in the pipes if he still has them. Pm sent

Is it actually welding itself or is it just sticking on because of the taper? How are you removing the flywheel?

FMF TurbineCore II silencers for FMF Fatty pipes. These are forestry approved at 94 decibels or less and spark arrested. I bought them in may of 2009 and put them on my banshee. Rode once at Baldwin and a couple times around where I live but didn't even put a full season on them since I bought a four stroke. No dents but they do have some dirt/oil around the exhaust side. Retail is $280 or 290 Will sell them for $200 plus whatever shipping is. FMF Fatty Gold series headers. They are chrome headers that look great. The one has a small dent and crack from rubbing on the cylinder. It isn't big and could be welded pretty easily. $100 plus shipping Another set of pipes I think go with the Fatty headers. I'll check to make sure but I would throw in for an extra $25 I have some red and some white plastics, bumpers, grab bars, a j-arm, rear stock skid guards, parts carbs (top threads stripped) PM me for more info or pics. Lowell, Michigan if you are close and don't want to pay for shipping.

Price dropped to $1500 for quad or $1700 for quad + extras!

The head was milled .070" and the domes were re-cut to the correct squish. This was done by Grand River Racing.

Fall 2008: Rebuilt Engine New front tires New sprockets and 0ring chain Timing Degree key Head milled .070 Uni pod filters with no airbox Spring 2009: New Rear Tires Six pack rack Powercore II (forestry approved) New rear brake pads Other stuff Nerf bars Aftermarket front bumper Lonestar billet axle housing Heavy duty rear +2 axle Douglas rims FMF Fatty gold pipes TOR's eliminator kit Extras that I can throw in Red plastics White plastics Parts carbs twist throttle setup Extra pipes and silencers Bumpers Coil Extra front suspension parts Quad is very dependable and very fast! It has never let me down and has beat many other quads! Always starts easy and runs like a champ! Never been crashed. I am looking to get 1700 obo for just the quad... Will consider any reasonable offer Will take 1900 for quad with all the extra parts Email me for pics peanutmanaj@aol.com or look in my profile (I think there are some in there.) I'd put some in here but they'd be too small to be of any use.

I called Toomey and they couldn't give me the jetting for their T6 pipes. I am trying to make sure a buddies bike that he got from California is jetted right and don't know what to run. Michigan elevation of 600ft Temp is about 70 *f K+N filter with lid on airbox (snorkel removed and vented) Thanks Edit - it has 280 mains in it now.

Get this... A guy I work with decided to tell me today that his old 2-stroke Polaris utility quad is faster than my banshee. He was also telling me that his Banshee that he used to have was killed by a 400ex. Sounds like he will be another candidate.

So I was out riding this weekend with some buddies. One of the guys has a stock 400ex and we lined up to race. Signal to go... He whooped me off the line, pulled ahead of me like there was nothing to it! Then I let the clutch out and handed his @$$ to him!! I know I am probably going to piss some people off with this!

Yeah. I heard of people in Michigan getting busted with aluminum window screen in their silencers. The DNR guys probably have enough experience to know who is running a legit setup. I know my silencers (FMF TurbineCore II's) are stamped right on them saying that they are forestry approved.

I run Maxima Castor 927 in my 'shee I think its a one liter bottle to 5 Gallons (I usually run about 4.8-4.9 gal to be safe)

Thats what I was thinking too!

We have a boring bar at the shop and a press so those aspects are already taken care of. What would a lathe be needed for?

Ok. I know about the sleeve retaining compound and everything. What I needed to know is if the have to be pressed or bored out. Do the new sleeves indicate the last boring size needed so I know how big to go?

The article wasn't on this site was it. I will look around some more and see what I can find too.

What do your spark plugs look like? After a good had run? What is your compression?

I work at a small engine shop but my boss has never done them before. We have a 20 ton press and have access to a 50 ton press if needed. Are there alignment pins or how do you know that you are getting them in strait?

I was just curious if anyone here had ever done it and how hard it was? I was thinking it would be sweet to pick up a set of jacked cylinders that are already ported or something and just re-sleeving them myself. Of course if the cylinders are ported I would probably have to remove some of the sleeve at the ports. Also any tips on how to do it? (edit - the re-sleeving not the opening of the sleeve at the ports.)

The problem with my four-wheeler there was too much slop between the sidecover and the shift-shaft. The sidecover (on mine at least) was keeping the shift shaft engaged in the star. I ended up custom making a nylon bushing to put between the sidecover and the shift shaft so it didn't have enough room to disengage the star. I didn't replace any parts. Don't know if I should have but that's just what I did.

Take of the clutch cover (right side). To do this you will want to drain the tranny fluid (there is a plug on the bottom of the motor) and the coolant. Mine did that once and it ended up being the shift fork slipped out too far and re-engaged my shift star funny. Had the exact same problem as you. The shift shaft will toward the back of the bike when you take the cover off.

The timing advance causes the gas fuel/air mixture to ignite earlier. There is a difference between ignition and detonation. Detonation is caused when the compression is too high for the octane rating and it spontaneously combusts. Ignition is caused by the spark plug. A higher octane fuel will take slightly longer to burn and give you a more consistent power and more even heat distribution throughout the engine. If you run too low of an octane in an engine with timing advance, the fuel will give too much power before the piston reaches the top and cause excessive strain and heat. Hope that helps you some

I know someone that is running over 165+ with +4 timing on 93 octane. I don't think I would but he's done it for years. If I went anything over 160-165 I think I would at least mix with race gas to be safe. On my current bike I have about 140psi with +4 and I am using 93 without any trouble.

Can you shoot some vid and post it up. I would be interested in seeing some.

I'm still laughing at -----> "smoke free home" What does that have to do with the jets?

Doesn't look too terrible. Could have been much worse. Not too much seizing and it does look like detonation to me as well. Did you wire brush that piston before the pic?