Mat Holland Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Ok, I had some issues and posted them on a previous topic I had. I believe that everything else has been taken care of. I still have the popping though. I ready someone elses topic about it sputtering and stuff and someone mentioned that it could be the stator. See I believe that my jetting is fine, after we rebuilt it, no popping or anything, then after a couple hours riding time, it starts popping. We are talking about 6-8 hours on the rebuild, it was running like a champ, other than loosing coolant, which is fixed now I do believe. So I got my impeller in and rode it up and down the road a couple of times and thought yay its fixed, because i used the sight on the carbs to get them synced pretty well. So I went to go ride, and I hit the old train tracks thats been torn out where people ride to get from place to place. I go there, hit some roads, and it starts popping. I think what the hell. So basically its fine, but it seems like after it gets "warmed up" then it starts popping and bogging like, like you let off the gas and it wants to die. What could this be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee4speed Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 are you running the stock stator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I can almost guarantee a slide is installed incorrectly, and/or the air screw is off. (Any loose throttle cables, carb tops, etc, can cause a correctly installed slide to walk.) You can be running the right jetting all you want, but the air screw is going to make it run crisp, or choppy and poppy. It doesn't have to be a constant problem to be it, it can fade in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duneman101 Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 check the connection between your coil and plug caps, i had one loose wire and it was doing the same thing you are describing. after i tightened that up it went away completley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 I had a problem like yours and come to find out my spark plug caps were bad. I replaced them with 2 NGK plug caps and shee ran perfect ever since. You have to use an ohm meter to test them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akita8 Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Check your wires that run from the cdi at the rear of the quad, especially where they run next to the exhaust pipe. If the pipe melted through the wire insulation and is grounding out the wire it could cause the popping. iF you had your flywheel off recently check that and make sure the nut didn't back off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Check your wires that run from the cdi at the rear of the quad, especially where they run next to the exhaust pipe. If the pipe melted through the wire insulation and is grounding out the wire it could cause the popping. iF you had your flywheel off recently check that and make sure the nut didn't back off. Alright, I will check the wires. I haven't had my flywheel off, so that should knock that one off. Anyway to test the stator? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Potteiger Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Alright, I will check the wires. I haven't had my flywheel off, so that should knock that one off. Anyway to test the stator? The stator is probably fine. I would pull the stator cover and make sure that is is dry and clean inside, and then start following the wiring harness searching for a burned wire. Popping is most usually caused by an electrical issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 dear matt, with that miligned setup, you will have to make adjustments to talor one type of ridding style. you see the 2 stroke us designed to depend highly on the scavenging effect providded by exhaust backpressure and reflective pulses from the pipe. the factory setup was designed for all around riding and the more you mess with that to gain power where you want it the more it will only work right there. baisically, when you tuned the carbs, it was not "warmmed up" to how you are gonna ride it. i think your exhaust is pushing air that is too hot for the mixture back in to the cylinder when it's warmed up. what i would suggest is to moove the needle 1 or 2 knotches richer (mid throttle) pull the silencers from your cans, and go up one jet size. you may also have to swithc to br9 plugs if they glaze (look wet but aren't) also you will have to ride the engine harder most of the time, 6 tanks of gas is a granny break in. just cruise around with 10-15 second hard accelerations every 2 min should have had it broke in within 25-45 min (you'll feel when the rings seat- it's awesome) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 so what you are saying is that I should move my needle up 2 sizes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Holland Posted October 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 oh I also forgot to add that I have noticed that since this has been happening, one of my carbs have been dripping. My dad said it sounds like the carbs need to be rebuilt. Could that be where the popping is comming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duneman101 Posted October 23, 2008 Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 most likley no. if your carb is dripping, your floats just need an adjustment or the carb needs a rebuild or cleaning. the dripping is proabably due to something not seating correctly allowing the bowl to over flow. Popping is usually caused by electrical problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 dear matt, with that miligned setup, you will have to make adjustments to talor one type of ridding style. you see the 2 stroke us designed to depend highly on the scavenging effect providded by exhaust backpressure and reflective pulses from the pipe. the factory setup was designed for all around riding and the more you mess with that to gain power where you want it the more it will only work right there. baisically, when you tuned the carbs, it was not "warmmed up" to how you are gonna ride it. i think your exhaust is pushing air that is too hot for the mixture back in to the cylinder when it's warmed up. what i would suggest is to moove the needle 1 or 2 knotches richer (mid throttle) pull the silencers from your cans, and go up one jet size. you may also have to swithc to br9 plugs if they glaze (look wet but aren't) also you will have to ride the engine harder most of the time, 6 tanks of gas is a granny break in. just cruise around with 10-15 second hard accelerations every 2 min should have had it broke in within 25-45 min (you'll feel when the rings seat- it's awesome) matt, forget what i said about yor silencers and jetts as it was way past my bed time and i was less than sober. first thing you should do is buy some brand new ngk's and go ridding. as soon as it starts popping, slam the foot brake too stall it and read the plugs. they should look almost new and be clean except for mabey some fuel from stalling. look all the way inside too it should be the same with no heat rings. this will help tell if it's electrical or not. after you ride back and shut it down normally, pull the plugs again- they should be dry. be carefull when you pull the plugs out that they come realatively easy because you could gall the threads if they stick when they are hot, but they shouldn't stick unless you use aluminum anti-sieze or they have been a very long time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 oh yah, now that your motor has broke in your compression should have gone up like having slightly smaller chambers, and coolant could have built up around the rings making them stick whn the pistons get hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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