magz Posted October 14, 2008 Report Posted October 14, 2008 Speaking of rebuilds, hows your new setup run magz? mine goes quite well, if I may say..... LOL like a raped ape my man, raped ape...probably another 30 minutes of run time on the motor and ill be done with break in and then ill really go beat the snaught out of it...always starts on 1 kick cold or hot & pulls the wheels up in every gear so far aslong as i have traction. my compression still seems low at 130psi but jim said it would read low due to the port and exhaust port being raised but it turns rpms alot higher and faster soo...plus i guess the rings havent fully seated yet so i could see the psi go up after i get back from LS Quote
96SilverlakeShee Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Posted October 15, 2008 :biggrin: Thanks to everyone that replied. Grats go to mudtrucker for my nub mistake of putting the slides in the wrong carbs. i was going to go rip off the left cover and i switched my slides and fired 1st kick WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! obviously still robbed of gas as i needed to open the throttle for it to idle im going to have to jet/rebuild floats. I was wondering i have been seeing a company out of the southern states selling 30 mm d slide caborators sets for 185$ on ebay and debating which route i should go. Jet kits 70 $ + new floats (dunno but probably pricey i assume) comments or anyone else used a set of these carbs? The listing did not have a company name so i dont have much to go on. My banshee in action http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=38011835 Quote
bbcmudtruck Posted October 15, 2008 Report Posted October 15, 2008 Mudertrucker huh! hahaha, glad you got it figured out! Don't buy a jet kit, with your mods, I would try 320 mains and 27.5 pilots. See how shee runs and check the plugs. You might be able to go down a main or two, but since the air temp is dropping, I would start at 320 and go from there. Quote
magz Posted October 15, 2008 Report Posted October 15, 2008 :biggrin: Thanks to everyone that replied. Grats go to mudtrucker for my nub mistake of putting the slides in the wrong carbs. i was going to go rip off the left cover and i switched my slides and fired 1st kick WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!obviously still robbed of gas as i needed to open the throttle for it to idle im going to have to jet/rebuild floats. I was wondering i have been seeing a company out of the southern states selling 30 mm d slide caborators sets for 185$ on ebay and debating which route i should go. Jet kits 70 $ + new floats (dunno but probably pricey i assume) comments or anyone else used a set of these carbs? The listing did not have a company name so i dont have much to go on. My banshee in action http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=38011835 dude, i hope you realize you have your paddle tires on backwards on your video atleast thats what it looks like on your video and in your picture on myspace. try turning them around youll be able to pop a wheelie better... Quote
sinisterboo Posted October 15, 2008 Report Posted October 15, 2008 They are definately backwards! and it sounded boggy, gonna be way more boggy with the paddles hookin up! Quote
magz Posted October 15, 2008 Report Posted October 15, 2008 (edited) To those of you who think im a nub and cant put the arrows on the pistons facing the correct way you make me a sad panda. dont most paddle tires have arrows that point the direction they need to rotate? lol, no worries something happens to all of us at one time or another.. :biggrin: Edited October 15, 2008 by magz Quote
96SilverlakeShee Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Posted October 15, 2008 i knew they were backwards after riding on them but didnt want to stall the fun that day and decided to rip around in 5-6th gear like doing 50-60 lol no faith... Quote
magz Posted October 15, 2008 Report Posted October 15, 2008 i knew they were backwards after riding on them but didnt want to stall the fun that day and decided to rip around in 5-6th gear like doing 50-60 lol no faith... lol it happens....i was looking at the second video and started wondering cause it took that guy alot longer to get up that hillshoot then it should have and then i saw them and it all made sense! Quote
96SilverlakeShee Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Posted October 24, 2008 Alrighty then... well magz the 2cd video is my friend who was riding my shee but it was his 1st time riding atv's (specially in the sand) and he climbed that one in 2cd basically taking the shee to the highest revs possible. ouche pistons rings scream. Now after switching slides and having the shee runs but backfires a lot. I was determined to find what other problems were hurting my bike not being able to idle. So both of my plugs had spark no problem. One was to say the least a little weaker than the other. so investigating more the caps needed to be replaced but the wire had been cut so much before that it wasnt going to work. So i purchased a ricky stator ignition coil/plug combo and installed it. Before this the right cylinder was not firing. Before i purchased the coil i went out and got a compression tester to make sure i had not blown a head gasket. tested both on a dry/wet scale. obviously could not test the bike after it had been warm so results as follows. no gas/dry left 108/right 110 wet/not warm left 148/right 151 Determined that the spark was the issue i replaced the coil and got so excited. Gave her a kick and she fired up on both for 2 seconds then the left cylinder cut out. Why would the other cylinder cut out after doing this omg (strangles shee). So after this i swapped the plug wires and fired her up again to have the same results (left cylinder is cold). I also got some 320 main jets for the carbs and 30 pilots. Then cleaned the carbs again, waited and blew them out with compressed air. Being as pissed off as i was i cleaned the fuel pitcock and took off the left side cover to the motor. The flywheel itself has been lightented before i owned the bike. I have to go get a flywheel puller but underneath is very dirty so im going to clean it out this evening. Since installing vforce reeds i thought this might have played a problem in air leakage as well. so i diassembles the reed assembly and reattached everything with yama glue. I know this is nasty and sucks in the long run but i needed to know that that was not this issue. the reeds checked fine and pressed open easily and none were stuck i used new gsakets to reassemble. I have gas I have air I have compression I have spark I have 1 cylinder, does someone have a 357 with my shee's name on it? `zac from michigan Quote
desertdeweller Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 108 /110 sounds really low even for a ported bike. Quote
96SilverlakeShee Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Posted October 24, 2008 i agree that 108/110 is low but it was a dry test done on a cold motor. There was probably no fuel in the crank for the dry test. As is i can only get the right cylinder to fire. The wet test was done on a cold motor as well. Most test tell you to warm the motor first as this was not done prior to tests. Seeing as how shee only runs on one cylinder i didnt think it would be a good idea for it to try to idle cause the side that is firing is puking raw fuel outside the pipes as it is. And as far as most compression test go i thought you were supposed to warm the motor 10-15 minutes before you pull the plugs to do the test which would result in higher compression ratios as the motor is hot and filled with fuel. The wet test was done by holding the throttle wide open and kicking it over. I checked gap between the flywheel and pickup it was a little outside specs so i pushed and bent it a little so it was within guidelines but the right was still the only hot cylinder to fire up. Im afraid all this strain on half the motor is killing my piston break in im sure and ready to let someone else give it a whack since im running out of ideas. No dealerships had a flywheel puller in stock and they wanted 70$ for it ... makes me sick. Im somewhat at a loss here does anyone else think i have low compression? Once again running at somewhat sea level in michigan, 68mm pistons/bigbore kit, pro design cool head with 22cc domes. And as for compression test methods which is the best method of doing so if warming the motor is not an option? Quote
ahcgt Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 Have you checked to make sure it hasn't sheered the flywheel key and jumped time? Mine did after a rebuild and would only run for a few seconds and constantly backfire while trying to get it started. Just my .02. Quote
96SilverlakeShee Posted October 26, 2008 Author Report Posted October 26, 2008 well i dont have a flywheel puller yet so i cant check the flywheel key but i do have great spark. At this point in time im pretty sure its the crank seals gone bad. I mean the left cylinder was only firing at first then it suddenly switched to the right after getting a new coil/plug wires and having more spark than b4>? I did swap plug wires on both occasions to test the other cylinder and both times it was the same cylinder not firing and not the electrical. So after i installed that only the right cylinder fires? kinda crazy ... what is a good test to do to determine if the crank seals are blown? Quote
ahcgt Posted October 26, 2008 Report Posted October 26, 2008 well i dont have a flywheel puller yet so i cant check the flywheel key but i do have great spark. At this point in time im pretty sure its the crank seals gone bad. I mean the left cylinder was only firing at first then it suddenly switched to the right after getting a new coil/plug wires and having more spark than b4>? I did swap plug wires on both occasions to test the other cylinder and both times it was the same cylinder not firing and not the electrical. So after i installed that only the right cylinder fires? kinda crazy ... what is a good test to do to determine if the crank seals are blown? I had good spark too when it happened to me. It still fired but it was out of time. It would run really rough and then die. Then when I would kick it some more it would backfire and pop. My key had gotten messed up but was still there. It was just a few fractions out of time and did the same thing. Good luck. Quote
bbcmudtruck Posted October 28, 2008 Report Posted October 28, 2008 First of all a fly wheel puller is only 10 bucks off of ebay, tell the stealership to f-off. Check to make sure that the choke tube is attached and that the float levels are correct. Also, I know that you just put new pilots in it, but check to see that they didn't get plugged back up. Especalially if you cleaned your carbs with a q-tip, the pilots will get clogged up time after time with the q-tip fibers. Are your carbs synched? Try some 27.5 pilots as well. If it fired up on both cylinders, and then cut out, it sounds to me like your pilots are clogging. Also about your compression test. Your supposed to check it wide open throttle, on a warm motor. If you have low compression on one. or both sides you can pour a little pre mix oil in the cylinder and re-perform the test. If the compression rises, that is an indicator of worn rings. Try all that and report back. Ryan Quote
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