96SilverlakeShee

Hell to the yessssss the season is ON like donkey kong! Probably going to be there saturday rocking a red/yellow 96 shee that kinda looks like bansheejoel's. Need to tone my main jets down but im gonna try to put in some 300's tonight other wise whatever im still probably going to come weather i do it or not. look forward to meeting everyone. ~zac

Hello everyone ive seen plenty of people looking obviously here so whats the problem im thinking you want more pictures of the motor outside of rad/tires/chain maybe? If thats the case please send me a pm or e-mail at zacz1000.com I know that if a good condition banshee where to be traded it would obviously be worth more money than a kx im not asking anyone to sacrifise but make a reasonable offer or if interested please just shoot a mail. zac

I have an 89 kawasaki kx250 with a list of mod/oem replaced parts on it with all original plastics besides tail section. would be willing to do more than trade obviously if interested i have pics/vid's of the green machine. obviously an older bike but it has been well maintained and probably enough invested to get another bike. If interested send me a tell. [email protected]

I purchased this 1989 kawasaki kx250 3 years ago from a local resident in michigan. The bike was all original and well maintained for the year. This bike has all original plastics and none of them were broke when i purchased the bike. Since then there is a minor crack in the left side cover plastic and the radiator guards are cracked a little. After purchasing I added some mods to the bike or replaced oem parts such as follows: FmF fatty head pipe and powercore silencer/Cobra spark arrestor Weisco piston and wrist pin bearing New kickstart lever New renthal Bull style Handle bars (raised) new grips new clutch and brake lever New front and rear tires Total suspension rebuild for a 160-170 weight class New rear tire catch New uni foam air filter (rode on 5 times) Boysen RAD intake and reed system Here is a copy to some pic's of the bikehttp://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=115972113&albumId=2131199 Video of the bike at silver lake mi http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=45863817 The bike is not yet 100% that i wanted it to be but now my old lady has sparked interest in riding offroad after i rebuilt the banshee i had. The bike internal kick gear probably needs to be replaced as well as the clutch. The motor's pipe spout is somewhat wore as well and leaks a little evan with new o rings and lube sealent in the new fmf. Not exactly looking for a striaght trade but anything in negotiable just searching for a little less powerfull shee for the miss. E-mails can be sent to [email protected]

How much would you be willing to let the rest of the bike go with parts as is?

I was wondering what kind of wear and tear the rear shock has on it could you send me a picture or two either pm here or [email protected]. thanks

I see that you posted about a nice dirtbike if anyone had one. I guess i wouldnt say that my dirtbike is nice but for a 89 it has been upheld very well and not ridden much until I purchased it 3 years ago. It is a 1989 Kawasaki kx250 with no title. Mods inc Wiesco stock bore piston and rings Boysen Rad Reed Intake system FMF fatty pipe powercore silencer/sparky cobra New kick start lever Total suspension rebuilt (fork seals /bushings/ rubbers)rear as well Crank measurements were solid during rebuild New Uni air filter this year New black fork booties ooo so cute New front brake rotor Have an extra set of front brake pads Needless to say this bike was immaculate before i purchased it. It still has the original decals on the front fendors! only a little slit in the seat and it is not noticible whatsoever. Here is a video of me riding it at silver lake. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=45863817 It needs a new idle gear cause the kickstart is slipping but still fires. If this interests you or anyone else with a banshee for a trade shoot me a e-mail at [email protected] I also have a collection of pics for it as well im going to try to post on my myspace if you want to check it out. I see that in every post you say how will you get it to the fools in michigan... my awnser to you is exactly ill come get it.

Well ive had a 2 stroke for years and always rode with mostly friends. To say the least, friendly circles break apart as years pass and i have no exceptional place to ride unless i drive more than 2 hours north to silver lake/white pigeon/ baldwin area. Does anyone know of any where to ride in southwest michigan ? I live in Kalamazoo michigan so northern Indiana is fine as well. Granted my wife comes some of the time and is a novice.

No way i have bad rings because the rings are brand spankin new. But i played with her a lot lately and turns out everything was fine but the new tors eliminator kit kinda pressed an issue that the previous owner never addressed. He installed a tors elimi kit and never played with drilling/cutting idle screws or choke handle. Put in a few hours into playing with them and i ended up cutting the choke handle's black outer piece a little back to get her to idle. Probably not the best idea but shee runs like a champ now. I did end up putting 320 mains and a 30 piolet in the carbs. The piolet probably causing it to not fire correctly with the choke handle but it is like 50 degrees in michigan right now so i figured go big (did have a 300 main in it before). Thanks to everyone thats posted here specially bbcmudtruck :biggrin: you guys are great and i'm sold on banshee HQ for great information and a place to get good lol's at yourself.

well i dont have a flywheel puller yet so i cant check the flywheel key but i do have great spark. At this point in time im pretty sure its the crank seals gone bad. I mean the left cylinder was only firing at first then it suddenly switched to the right after getting a new coil/plug wires and having more spark than b4>? I did swap plug wires on both occasions to test the other cylinder and both times it was the same cylinder not firing and not the electrical. So after i installed that only the right cylinder fires? kinda crazy ... what is a good test to do to determine if the crank seals are blown?

i agree that 108/110 is low but it was a dry test done on a cold motor. There was probably no fuel in the crank for the dry test. As is i can only get the right cylinder to fire. The wet test was done on a cold motor as well. Most test tell you to warm the motor first as this was not done prior to tests. Seeing as how shee only runs on one cylinder i didnt think it would be a good idea for it to try to idle cause the side that is firing is puking raw fuel outside the pipes as it is. And as far as most compression test go i thought you were supposed to warm the motor 10-15 minutes before you pull the plugs to do the test which would result in higher compression ratios as the motor is hot and filled with fuel. The wet test was done by holding the throttle wide open and kicking it over. I checked gap between the flywheel and pickup it was a little outside specs so i pushed and bent it a little so it was within guidelines but the right was still the only hot cylinder to fire up. Im afraid all this strain on half the motor is killing my piston break in im sure and ready to let someone else give it a whack since im running out of ideas. No dealerships had a flywheel puller in stock and they wanted 70$ for it ... makes me sick. Im somewhat at a loss here does anyone else think i have low compression? Once again running at somewhat sea level in michigan, 68mm pistons/bigbore kit, pro design cool head with 22cc domes. And as for compression test methods which is the best method of doing so if warming the motor is not an option?

Alrighty then... well magz the 2cd video is my friend who was riding my shee but it was his 1st time riding atv's (specially in the sand) and he climbed that one in 2cd basically taking the shee to the highest revs possible. ouche pistons rings scream. Now after switching slides and having the shee runs but backfires a lot. I was determined to find what other problems were hurting my bike not being able to idle. So both of my plugs had spark no problem. One was to say the least a little weaker than the other. so investigating more the caps needed to be replaced but the wire had been cut so much before that it wasnt going to work. So i purchased a ricky stator ignition coil/plug combo and installed it. Before this the right cylinder was not firing. Before i purchased the coil i went out and got a compression tester to make sure i had not blown a head gasket. tested both on a dry/wet scale. obviously could not test the bike after it had been warm so results as follows. no gas/dry left 108/right 110 wet/not warm left 148/right 151 Determined that the spark was the issue i replaced the coil and got so excited. Gave her a kick and she fired up on both for 2 seconds then the left cylinder cut out. Why would the other cylinder cut out after doing this omg (strangles shee). So after this i swapped the plug wires and fired her up again to have the same results (left cylinder is cold). I also got some 320 main jets for the carbs and 30 pilots. Then cleaned the carbs again, waited and blew them out with compressed air. Being as pissed off as i was i cleaned the fuel pitcock and took off the left side cover to the motor. The flywheel itself has been lightented before i owned the bike. I have to go get a flywheel puller but underneath is very dirty so im going to clean it out this evening. Since installing vforce reeds i thought this might have played a problem in air leakage as well. so i diassembles the reed assembly and reattached everything with yama glue. I know this is nasty and sucks in the long run but i needed to know that that was not this issue. the reeds checked fine and pressed open easily and none were stuck i used new gsakets to reassemble. I have gas I have air I have compression I have spark I have 1 cylinder, does someone have a 357 with my shee's name on it? `zac from michigan

i knew they were backwards after riding on them but didnt want to stall the fun that day and decided to rip around in 5-6th gear like doing 50-60 lol no faith...

:biggrin: Thanks to everyone that replied. Grats go to mudtrucker for my nub mistake of putting the slides in the wrong carbs. i was going to go rip off the left cover and i switched my slides and fired 1st kick WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! obviously still robbed of gas as i needed to open the throttle for it to idle im going to have to jet/rebuild floats. I was wondering i have been seeing a company out of the southern states selling 30 mm d slide caborators sets for 185$ on ebay and debating which route i should go. Jet kits 70 $ + new floats (dunno but probably pricey i assume) comments or anyone else used a set of these carbs? The listing did not have a company name so i dont have much to go on. My banshee in action http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=38011835

the crossover tube is in place yes. To those of you who think im a nub and cant put the arrows on the pistons facing the correct way you make me a sad panda. I havent checked the flywheel at all i was hoping to not get into the left side of the motor :geek:. Pretty much thinking i have some week spark so flywheel is probably going to get looked at. but from the information i have supplied could someone say that the jets should make the banshee run ? I was thinking that it should run and i would just re-jet it after i got it running. As for the TORS removel it was done b4 the rebuild but the throttle cable let dirt into the motor so it had to be replaced so i purchased the kit with new carb tops.

not sure on the jet size but it was fmf jet kit for the gnarleys so i assume its pro like 270 or close. as for the crossover tube it is installed and replaced with this build. As for needle settings its on the 2cd from the top so its set lean but this bike ran perrrrrrrrrfect b4 this all happened i mean no backfires/kicks over 1st start every time/ timing was great (2 degrees advanced). Now that i can't get it to start i cant really check the timing ya know...

More info--- Yes i did the carb sync right after installing the new tors eliminator kit. The slides drop low enough to here them lay onto of the carbs as well. gotta luv that clunk noise they make when they drop down. Also i am running 22cc domes on the pro design head.

well i have owned a banshee for the greater portion this year and loved every second of it. Recently a bad throttle cable (aftermarket tors removed) caused some dirt entry into my motor and killed my pistons. The banshee has had much work b4 and after this rebuild. b4 includes shaved head fmf gnarleys K&N with lid removed trail port FMF jet kit hot rods stock stroke crank bored .80 over 2 degree advance timing key needless to say the head was damaged enough to have to have it milled to the point of losing some compression. The stock cylinder walls i didnt want to take a chance on damaging them either. And the reeds were cracked and badly needed to be replaced. so here is the list of other mods in addition to i have added. Prodesign cool head Vforce3 reed intake system LA sleeve big bore sleeves and pistons 68mm new tors eliminator kit with carb caps So i slapped it together and i cant get it to start for the life of me. Today i disassembled the top end and re assembled it to make sure torque specs of 20 lbs were god and there was a lot of compression in the new top end evan kicking it over ( I ripped a hole in my shoes from backkicks). The motor itself doesnt start unless i give it some gas and evan then it backfires and seems starved of fuel. It would not run for more than 30 seconds and evan then it sounded horrible and bogged way out evan with throttle wide open. I thought the fmf jet kit would suffise enough to get it running b4 i had to jet it but im pretty sure thats why i cant get it started w/o giving it fuel. During the rebuild i cleaned the carbs several times. The float bowls needed to be replaced when i got the bike but i dont see how that would make it not start since its just dumping some extra fuel onto the ground. Personally I am not a carb man and havent done much jetting but im pretty sure this is the direction i need to go but am open to any suggestions. my height elevation is at sea level and i run 93 octane with supatechnaplate oil from klotz at 40:1. This banshee has always run 40:1. This year when i tried to run 32:1 in it it would not evan start. But that was b4 the rebuild. OMG its almost november and I need to 2 stroke it bad