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Tors eliminator without Idle adjustment


jjn56

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I recently bought my 1st Banshee and just noticed today that when the guy put in the TORS eliminator he didn't install the new Idle screw. I'm probably going to go ahead and install it when I have time and if I can get the parts without buying the whole kit, but can this cause any problems not having it in?

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Thanks for the replies, I got the instuctions off toomey and it doesn't sound to bad, I'll go ahead and do it next time I pull the carbs. I might have the Idle screws in a box of Shi# the guy gave me i bought it from if not I might take you up on the offer for those screws. I'll try adjusting it from the handlebar first also.

They sell the whole kit on ebay.

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i wouldnt adjust that from the bars unless your just going to be drag racing it, because if you think about it you need a little slack in the cable otherwise when you turn the bars your idle will go up when you dont want it to, so if your riding in the trees or dunes or anywhere that you will need to turn i woulnt do that, thats a stupid idea, the idle screws are sold for a reason and if there adjusted right they will work right

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Doing it without the idle screws will work in a pinch, but as said, you need a little slack.

You can buy the screws only from Vitos. Make sure you get the correct drill and tap...and you have to grind the boss flat so the lock washer has somewhere to rest/lock...and so the idle screws actually hit the slide and raise/lower it for desired idle speed.

 

ASR...

Remove the carbs. Look in the back of the carb...and turn the idle screw all the way in. If they are not raising the carb slide, the boss is not ground down far enough.

 

Here's the screws from Vitos...

 

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...php?mode=search

 

Here's the tap, drill and screws

 

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...at=0&page=1

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Took my carbs off and I am going to put in my Idle screws today (I found them), take a look at this picture, the left carb has a brass tube about 1 1/2" long sticking up and the right one doesn't. Is this how it is supposed to be or should they both have one?

Also the needle valve seat (pointed rubber part) had a slight indentation, would this cause a fuel leak and should I replace them or just clean them and put it back together.

post-28289-1221663492.jpg

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i wouldnt adjust that from the bars unless your just going to be drag racing it, because if you think about it you need a little slack in the cable otherwise when you turn the bars your idle will go up when you dont want it to, so if your riding in the trees or dunes or anywhere that you will need to turn i woulnt do that, thats a stupid idea, the idle screws are sold for a reason and if there adjusted right they will work right

 

 

I trail rode mine for 2 years without the screws before I turned it into to a drag racer. I've adjusted the idle at the bars on all my atvs (YFZs, Banshees), except my drag racers. They don't idle, but I don't care..

 

The YFZ does have a shorter throttle cable that occasionally will rev the motor up with a turn of the bars, but I never had a problem with a Banshee, as long as the cable was routed properly.

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