Pincushion

Did you remove the carb bowls? If so, are you sure you installed each bowl to the correct carb as they are unique? I had this problem once and it about drove me mad.

Discovery point is expensive and it sucks IMO. I much prefer Windy Cove. $20/night with full hookups. This is at Winchester Bay. If you come up during the off season (Oct thru Apr) you can camp and ride straight out of Honeyman State Park at Florence, but no ATV access during the peak season times. Honeyman is a really nice campground.

No offense taken. I think his quad needs to get back to good working order before modifying a bunch of shit. That's all. If he's yet to experience the power of a basic bolt-on Banshee then he may want to avoid making a ripper until comfortable riding it stock.

Some good and bad info in here. -Get motor to operating temp -Remove plugs -Ground plug caps to motor as to not short your electrical system -Insert comp tester -hold throttle wide open and kick hard until reading does not climb anymore -repeat 3-4 times to verify correct reading -swap sides, repeat. Cold rings in a cold cylinder will give a different reading that warm rings in a warm cylinder. You want PSI at operating temp. Get a threaded comp tester with the threads the same depth as the spark plug. Good rule of thumb is to take a reading with a freshly broken-in top end. When that initial numbers drops 15% its time for another fresh top end.

Dont do anything except rebuild the top end. No porting, no milling and no timing changes. You'll only have more gremlins to chase. Get the top end fresh, replace the reeds if they're chipped or not sealing. clean the air filter, clean the carbs and go up on the mains. Get back to square one before you decide to jump to square 3 or 4 :cool: I've got an 03' with somewhat comparable mods (except k&n pods and 320 mains) and it'll annihilate a Suzi 400. With extreme prejudice!

$15 a hole!?!? That's beyond dirt cheap. My local machinist charges $35 per hole for a bore and champfer and that's half the price of the other shops in the area. Guess shit really is more expensive on the west coast.......

Thanks everyone! I'll get back in there and adjust it as described. Too bad the damn bearing didn't come with some instructions so I could have avoided this. Engage....disengage. Oops!

I'm having a hard time describing it. This should help.... Most clutches disengagement point is more like the bottom picture (or at least in the ballpark) and it happens relatively close to the bar/grip. My clutch doesn't disengage until its almost fully out, like the top pic. Of course these pics aren't true renditions, but they'll get my point across. I hope. I've adjusted it at the pressure plate so the marks align perfectly. Is this not how it should be done with the pancake bearing installed? Is there a method to assembling the clutch pack that I'm not aware of and it could be assembled wrong? The basket and hub have never been removed, only the pressure plate and clutch plates. thanks!

Bump. Still scratching my head.....

My clutch is bone stock with the exception of a pancake bearing. Plates are stock with probably 30-40 hrs on them. The engagement point doesn't happen until the clutch lever is almost fully disengaged. More specifically, the clutch doesn't grab until the clutch lever is about 85-90% released. It shifts fine and doesn't do anything strange, but its hard to get a decent launch when the engagement point is so far out. I've adjusted it at the pressure plate per the manual and ensured the marks are lined up when they should be. I dont have a micrometer to measure the plates. What would your best educated guess be? In all my years of owning bikes and quads I've never seen a clutch lose its engagement point by this much no matter how worn the plates are. Is this just how banshee's are? I bought it used and its been like this since day 1.

Shit! Posted in the wrong forum. Mods, can you please move this to the repair forum. Sorry!

Ever since I got this banshee it's had what I believe to be a clutch slippage issue. When I'm accelerating hard uphill on the sand it will sometime start to jerk violently and make some loud metal clanking noises. This only happens on hard uphills.... nowhere else. I tore the clutch assembly down to have a look and everything looks great. Basket is not grooved, all plates looked in good shape (I did not mic them) and everything appears perfectly functional and the trans shifts perfectly. While apart I replaced the bushing with a pancake bearing, backed it off 1/8 turn from contact point and buttoned it up. Took it to the sand and it still has the issue. It's recently come to my attention that there is an adjustment point where the clutch arm enters the case. I checked mine and the lines are 1/2" apart. The indicator on the clutch arm is about 1/2" mis-aligned toward the outside of the motor (away from the jugs). That seems like an awful lot of misadjustment. I assume this is the reason for my clutch slippage under power. Anyone think not? So.... what is the protocol for adjusting the clutch? Do I start with the pancake bearing adjustment (make contact, back off 1/8 turn and tighten) and then align the marks on the adjuster arm? Or do I reverse the steps? thanks! -PC Edit: Just found an online service manual and it looks as if the pancake bearing adjustment is what determines the alignment of the clutch arm notch to the case notch. Is this correct? And in simple terms.... how do I adjust the clutch properly?

There's one road in and one road out of the area. They can block the road past Dereck Rd and prevent an exit easily. Not a good place to try to run! I was out there a few months ago and a few guys ran from the open sand back to the parking lot and tried to load up and bail quickly. The ranger who tried to stop them called in the description and within 40 seconds there was 4 LEO trucks surrounding their rig. I know they got sound tickets and may have gotten evading tickets too. Sand Lake was out of control for a long time. Not anymore. They have it under lock and key these days.

Your advice was right on the money also. I failed to see that brass ball upon 1st, 2nd and 3rd inspection

Thank you! I did use the search function, but must have used poor word choice. That's great info!

I thought I read somewhere that the bowl with the fuel passage should go on the carb with the choke plunger. Problem with that is.... both bowls have that fuel passage and they are identical as far as I can tell. Can anyone confirm that the bowls are the same and if not, what's the difference? If they are different, would having the wrong bowl on the wrong carb cause the motor not to start? Thx!

Anyone got one? Thanks!

If you're going to run a tight squish (>0.40") then be very vigilant with your bottom end. If your crank or rod bearings develop play then you wont have much wiggle room between the piston and head. I run my YZ @ 0.45" as a compromise of performance and safety. Race motors that get rebuilt ofter run it much tighter cause they're not going 200hrs between bottom end rebuilds. Also, dont confuse decking the head with squish clearance. Proper squish clearance is a combination of lowering the chamber to the proper height as well as machining the bowl to the proper volume and angle. For measuring instructions go here: http://www.rb-designs.com/squish-band-test.htm Ron @ RB Designs is the man whom does all my motor work. He's worked on my YZ, Banshee and my boat motor. Super nice guy, honest and a helluva machinist.

I didn't take the knob off, butI did manage to dislodge the clip :: Hopefully it's still floating around in there and is reusable. Thanks for the info!!! Much appreciated.

I'm having starting difficulties which I believe are related to the choke plunger. Anyway, I removed the plunger and during my inspection I managed to dislodge the nut assembly from the rod and am unable to get it back together. Is there a clip that holds the nut onto the plunger rod? Anyone got a pic or diagram of all the parts and their orientation? Thanks! -PC

These are the holes that would be covered had I installed the keeper plate backwards, right? If so, then they are correct and I can see through them. Thanks for the input. Time for another carb cleaning session. I'm going to dismantle and clean those fuckers like never before

The only other I have done was install idle screws. Should they be wrapped with teflon tape to seal better? I wonder if they're leaking air...... The issue is only during cold starts. Once its warm it runs perfect and fires 1st kick.

Nope. They're in with the lower indent facing the rear. Its something carb/intake related, but I just cannot figure out what.

The choke tube is in place and is not plugged. I removed the choke plunger and it looks and operates like I think it should. Like MB says... once warm it fires up 1st kick and runs great. It just will not fire when stone cold after sitting for more than an hour. My buddy not only went over the bars and lost all the oil in the motor, but he ALSO lost the AP diaphragm and cover from the carb during a late Saturday ride. We tried to start that SOB for an hour Sunday morning with no luck. We've all got a friend like that..... the type who should never own a motor vehicle :shoothead: