Banchetta

ABF....do they have a website or contact #???? Thanks..

I'm interested in buying a quad, but its 3000miles away, I'd like to fly out to make sure its what I think and then ship it...whats the best, easiest and cheapest way??

The more of a load, the more fuel it takes, so I'd say your lean...either that or you have electrical problems....check all your connections and plug wires..

Me too, I'll ride through water at least a foot deep and have no issues with my carbs.... Don't ever sell your shee. I've had 4 shees and they all do it...whether its washing it or riding through a puddle....I tried water skipping w/ paddles in the rear and knobby fronts.... I made it, but damn that water was cold..my shee ran like shit for the next hour after that joy ride....

silver specs means that your piston is melting and detonating. If you don't have any silver specs, then how do you know its detonating??....post a pic of the plugs...Do another run w/ the old plugs and post a pic of them also.....

Do a search on throttle sticking and Fixitrod started the post...there is one topic w/ over 16 pages on this...you shouldn't jerk off while using the computer, it only creates sticky keys.......

Are you getting silver speckles on the strap and outside ring of the plug?

It is supposed to be 7.5 turns out. If not, then you have either an air leak and maybe your cable is too tight and not allowing the slide to go back down.......When I bought my carbs, they specifically said 7.5 turns out and my shee idles perfect at that.....

I'd go up at least 2 sizes on the pilots to start...the needle clip will vary depending on the pilot, so you have to get the pilot dialed in first since you far off, then get the needle height adjusted after...

Try a smaller pilot

I don't even have all those words in my vocabulary. hehe.....just say yyyyeeeeaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

ONe side is smoking more than the other w/ a single carb indicates you have an air leak of some sort. I'd check the compression and do a leak down test like smoky suggested and go from there..make sure the reeds are cracked or gapped open ..

I'd get those mains dialed in first. Run it wot and check the plugs. that'll help dial in those mains and go from there...

I don't bother soaking unless they've been sitting for long periods. I just blow them out w/ an air compressor.

Hard to start when cold or warm? Or both? W/ the choke or w/o? and what do you mean by it won't run right for wot test. What do you call won't run right? Makes perfect sense that it'll run stronger w/ the needle raised, I'd try the closest clip to the taper and go from there. You'll either gain more like you did from the 3rd to the 4th setting or it'll fall on its face, but you'll at least know your at max power...

same

LIke red said, move the needle clip and that'll help your 1/4 throttle response...

Ahhh, you washed it....thats why. The banshee is very sensitive to water....A lot of us have tried to figure it out, be can't put the actual finger on it...The stock carbs get hit w/ water and the shee won't run for shit for a awhile....You could also check to see if the air filter is wet....If the filter is fine, then run the shee until it warm, then shut it off, start it up about 10 minutes later and it usually comes out of it....Do a search on here. There was a BIG discussion on this..

I wouldn't even think about trying the 5th. I know several quads in my area that like the 5th clip and pull harder than the 4th...Glad to hear you found the problem though....

I did it last year for the first time.....you won't regret it..I'm a definate, so you won't be alone from Maine...

no doubt that no antisieze will definately grip a lot better and have less chance of slippage or shearing of a key. On the boats, we have corrosion problems especially where the shaft is stainless and the prop is bronze or NIBRAL. Stick a little bit of saltwater in the equation and its like welding the two metals together....the trannies do have clutches, but the shee also is free revving and doesn't really have any sudden jolts....it speeds up and slows down, but never stops hard or it would stall the motor. But either way, there is no wrong way. W/ or w/o antisieze on the shee will work. I've never sheared a key off w/ the antisieze and don't know anyone who has....Its more in the proper install and torque than anything...some will use it, others won't. I just like the easy of removal.

Nice job!!!!!

Depends on these shipping arrangements that JT is setting up. I'd rather ship the quad, but if I have to, I'll drive...I thought you were going to Silver Lake last week??? What happened? You gotta make the trip to Glamis, don't miss this one!!!

I would also think that, but I've grown up in the fishing industry where the propellers are held on by tapered shafts and keyways....If you don't put antisieze on the shaft, then you'll never get the propeller off again....I've seen fisherman using 5 ton jacks behind the prop and hitting the shaft w/ a sledge hammer and the prop still wouldn't budge...Put some antisieze and next time it just pops right off. Never had any fisherman lose thier props either....We have guys up here swinging 32" props w/ diesel motors pushing over 1000lbs of torque.....I know it doesn't make sense, but its true...I use antisieze on all my tapered shafts that I've ever come across.....makes life a lot easier..