Banchetta

Try lowering the needle, I doubt you'll need a smaller pilot could I could be wrong, I'd try different needle positions first and go from there. try adjusting the air screw out to 2-2.5 turns out. and see if that helps. Let us know what happens.

The needle and pilot are two different areas of jetting. YOu have to have some lift on the slide to idle properly. Don't you have an idle screw on the carb?

For your type of riding the T6 or T5's are not what your looking for. Go for a low end or midrange pipe. The 2 into 1 pipe will give you a lot more low end than stock w/ the same amount of top end. The Motofast or Dynoport are the only 2 into 1 pipes made. If you want more low end, mid and top then I'd go for the PT mids. They have the most low end of any twin pipe out there w/ more top end then stock. The advantage to low end and midrange pipes is that they deliver a smooth power curve instead of the hard hit like banshees are known for. This will give you more traction and less tire spin, but will pull way harder out of the corners. You'll have a broader powerband at lower rpms so you can slow right down and get onto the powerband at a low rpm vs clutching it all the time to get the rpms up to get the powerband to kick in and blaze the tires...Stay away from most other pipes, they are mostly high revs which won't benefit you nearly as much.. Stay w/ the torque pipes, not the high revs. Other pipes I'd suggest is Fmf sst's and Bill pipes. They are also nice pipes that have a great finish and smooth curves when jetted right. Pipe choice is very crutial, so pick wisely. Other mods would be to increase compression, timing advanced to +4, don't waste your money on reeds unless your porting it. Lightening the flywheel is nice along w/ some suspension. The front shocks on the shee really suck. Make sure you have decided on a-arm width before you purchase new shocks though. If you leave the stock air box in , then make sure you mod the air box lid. Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid so you still have all 4 clips. Get a K&n w/ the proflange. The stock plastic flange will let sand get by and ruin the pistons. ONce you get some pipes, put a 15 tooth front sprocket on there. It'll help w/ less tire spin and make your power even broader..Good luck and enjoy your new shee!!! Oh ya, shorten your swingarm -2", makes a HUGE difference. Banshees spin a lot and need shorter swingarms to get that power to the ground. dont worry about wheelies, that'll only happen when you want, which is crucial for aggressive trail riding over whoops and deep holes and mud..

Run the dirt dogs backwards for snow so they scoop. They'll work a lot better.

those are some heavy mods especially for stock carbs. Did you check to see if you have the right carb bowl on the right carb? The bowl on the choke carb should have a brass tube and a tiny jet in the bowl. This is for the choke. If you put the right carb bowl on the left carb, then the choke won't work...very important and will solve your problem. If they are correct, then I'd try some larger pilots, I'd start w/ the 30's and go from there...The mains do sound small for those mods. Was these carbs used on this shee when you bought it? At what elevation was he running?

Did you do a plug test after a wot run in 6th gear before you changed the mains?? Don't just lean the mains because you think its rich. Adjust the mains to the plug color ONLY after a wot run.....Jetting isn't that hard, just time consuming. Spend a whole day at it, and you'll be happy every ride after.

Your running a 2 into 1 setup, he has dual carbs...

Check to see if the choke tube is in place between the two carbs. Its 1/4" dia. x 2" long. Then you might have to pull the carb bowls off to see if they weren't swapped. Only one carb bowl is capable of supplying fuel for the choke, so make sure they haven't been swapped.

I'd start w/ a 175 main, needle halfway, and a 58 pilot. This is just a baseline, but should get you close if not a little rich..

Starts fine when shes hot.. Cold is a different story. When I turn the petcock to "ON", one carb starts overflowing from the float bowl... its takes about 4-5 kicks to get her started.. i never have to choke it.. When I ge the carbs apart, I will have to check the needle.. Looked like a bitch to get off and I was runnin out of daylight to go through that.. 281449[/snapback] sounds like your pilots are within 1 size of being spot on. You should have to use the choke to start it and should be able to start it easily when warm, so your very close. I'm thinking that your needles are way too lean and possibly the mains. I'd start w/ raising the needles one clip. If the shee responds well, then I'd raise them again. Find the optimum setting. This will make great changes in performance and low end response. Once you find the sweet spot, then run the shee wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear, coast to a stop, pull the plugs, thats how you can adjust the mains and ONLY the mains. You want a dark brown color. Tan is too lean, black is too rich. Before you do your first wot run, I'd bump your mains to a 165 main, better to start rich and work down...I'd think you should be perfect around 162. Good luck and let us know what you come up w/.

any type of fuel line will work, it connects the two carbs for the choke. W/o it your shee will run like shit and won't start very well....if you turn the carb or pull just one off, then it probably separated and fell off...you'll see a big improvement of power once you get that back on...

Tan plugs is a sign of leanness, but be careful you can be rich on the pilots, but lean on the needles or mains, so you have to get all three dialed in. The pilots control the idle/off idle circuit, the needles control 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range, and the mains control wide open throttle range (wot), you want to run your shee wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, coast to a stop, pull the plugs. You want a dark brown color on the strap of the plugs, this is ONLY for adjusting the mains. Adjust the needle w/ the seat of the pants feel, it'll either like it or hate, no inbetween. You can benefit great power gains w/ the needle height, so don't ignore it. Good luck and let us know what you end up w/.

Spit and sputtering is a sign of richness, if you have to keep revving it out to clean it out at an idle, then your pilot is wwaaaay too rich. I'd drop 3 sizes and go from there. What size pilots do you have? Mods?

Rockets are the last pipe you'd want if your looking for a mid pipe. If you want low end and midrange power w/ some low rpms torque, then get the 2 into 1 pipe or Paul Turner mids....Pipe choice is very crucial to YOUR riding style so choose wisely.

I'd run it w/ the mains you have now and do a plug test. If anything you might have to lean the needle one notch. Usually the reeds will make the shee run richer on the needle circuit.

The knobs on top of the carbs are your idle screws and should be adjusted to make your carbs in sync w/ one another. If not then one exhaust will smoke more than the other and the throttle response will suffer greatly. To adjust them, pull the air filter and grab a flashlight. Look inside the intake to view the slides of the carbs, turn the idle knob so the slide "bottoms out" then turn the idle knob one full turn so the slide moves up. Do this to both sides and your carbs will be synced and idle should be very close. If you need another 1/4 turn on the idle, then do so, but make = changes to both sides. The air screws are gold colored on the carb sides and should be between .5-2.5 turns out. Adjust them to the best throttle response. Different elevations will affect the position. You shouldn't have to change the pilots, but will probably be between a 230-250 main jet. Check your plugs after a wide open run in 6th gear to adjust the mains. They should be a dark brown color. Tan is too lean, and black is too rich...

agreed, I wouldn't worry too much about it

Hesitations are often caused by a lean condition,not a rich condition. A rich condition will make it spit and sputter like the choke is on. How does it start when hot and when its cold? Do you have to use the choke cold? HOt? This will help determine how close your pilots are. Also, check to see what kind of needle you have and what clip position your at. You'll have to remove the needle from the slide to determine this....

There is always enough riding....90% of Maine is woods!!!

Well you seem to have an idea of where it needs to be, I'd do a wide open run in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds and pull the plugs, see what color the strap is and go from there...you could still be 2 sizes off which is about 5 hp....if it starts hard then you might have forgotten to put the choke tube back on between the carbs??? make sure you don't swap the carb bowls, only one them has a gold tube w/ a little jet in the bowl for the choke carb....you must be up there in elevation if the 240 main won't work. Either that or the choke tube isn't in place like already mentioned (1/4" x 2" long)

SST's have a broader powerband and a very nice throttle response. I'd go w/ them for overall. I'd go w/ the fatties if you think your going to do some extensive porting, etc...

How many beds does that one have? What size? I just rented a 31' w/ 4 double beds, so you could sleep 4-8 people...It cost $1250 w/ 300 miles, tax, etc...

I've always read my plugs before I went to the dyno, checked them on the dyno and always got max readings w/ the plug color that I liked. So I trust that the perfect and most hp reading on a dyno will give you your best air/fuel ratio...Besides, a dyno will create more of a load than the actual field, causing you to be running richer in the field than the dyno....since more load requires more fuel..

Good luck, I hope it works as well for you as it did for Rod and I...