Banchetta

I'd go up a couple of sizes to start especially where its only getting colder. Every 15-20 degress out is one jet size. I used to jet for70-90 in the winter then rejet for 30 degrees in the winter. Never had a problem, but I went up 3 sizes for winter. You might want to try raising the needles to. I don't change mine from seasons, but you might have some nice hidden power in there and not even realize it. Just try it and do the changes separately so you know where the gains were.

310 mains for 30-50 degree weather, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, stock pilots have always been the best combo on fmf pipes that I've found. Your very close, and I'd run it to try it out, then try the stock pilots and determine which ones work best for you.....This jetting is also for k&n filters w/ modded air box covers or no cover at all..

You can run them if you want. The spacers will make your powerband come in harder. W/o them, your power will be smoother. I left mine out. No gains on the dyno.

Don't bother, use the stock needles and buy the jets separately.

Don't take the choke off.....If it seems like it hesitates before powerband, then maybe your ready for a larger pilot..it'll help w/ cold starts better, but might take away throttle response if your already perfect..trial and error.

Start w/ 380 mains, stock pilots, needles 2nd-3rd clip from the blunt end. This is just a starting point, but will get you close...I ran 370's in mine last spring on the dyno around that temp. Let us know what you end up w/...Sredish is right. You should get some 35's, strokers love to breath.

I left the spacers and boost bottle off. The power was smoother and more predictable..less light switch. same overall hp.

Did you check the cutaway in the slides to see if they face the right direction?

I have most of those mods done except for reeds and my gearing is already a 14/46. Overall i'm very happy with the pipes. 291817[/snapback] Try a 15/41 gear. You'll like it a lot better.

Did you check to see if the bowls of the carbs have been switched yet? Also make sure the slides are in the right carbs. Cutaway should face the air box.

You shouldn't have to touch the floats, I think they are just telling you to check all adjustments in the carbs while you have them apart. Factory specs are 21-23mm...

Two strokes are totally different. The height of the ports are extremely important and change the power curve dramatically. There is no mechanical valves in the two strokes so porting changes everything. Just be careful and do a LOT of research.

wanna switch?

Too rich on the pilots....If its cold out, then you should have to use the choke..especially if you can start it w/ one kick and no choke..

Means your running pump gas....

Those fmfs will be better for trail riding then those CPI's...I'd go for it...Throw some 290 mains, raise the needle to the 4th clip w/ reeds or 5th clip w/ stock reeds, stock pilots, adjust air screw, mod the air box cover, add K&N and it'll rip....oh ya, put a 15 tooth front sprocket on.

I usually get my jets on magicracing.com. You can order online or call them. They don't show needles online, but if you call they can get them. I've found the DEK needles work the best for me, but every shee is a little different, most carbs come w/ cgl needles which are a little too lean at 1/4 throttle....You should notice some kind of a difference w/ different needle positions. Post a pic of your plugs after a wot run if you could. Also are you using the choke to start it? or does it start right up w/o the choke?

I'd try a 55 pilot and 175 mains, then play w/ the needles. What kind of needles are you running and what clip are they on?

Hesitation is caused by leaness, Raise the needle by lowering the clip. Move the clip towards the point of the needle. You should see decent gains. You have to disconncect the slides off the cable by pulling back the spring and shaking the gold clip out, then unscrew the two philip screws and the needle will come out. Pain in the ass at first, but you can get prettyfast at it after a while.

I'd call Dave at Noss and ask him for the dome size. He knows best w/ elevation and compression. Some domes will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. As for carbs. Larger carbs will take away hp unless you have porting done. Your better off w/ stock carbs and will gain quite a bit over larger carbs, especially on the bottom.....

You'll need larger intakes from the cylinders to the carbs, larger filters or intake boots for the stock box. Your jetting should be around 175 main, 58 pilot and needle 4th clip from the blunt end w/ DEK needles.

I'd start w/ a 300, I'd guess it'll be too rich and you'll most likely end up w/ a 280-290, but better to start rich and work down. You might also want to try raising the needles. It might help your low end and throttle response. The DG exhaust is probably one of the only exhaust I've never ran besides the 2 into 1, so I can only give you a baseline.

ONly way to tell is to measure and mic the cylinders. Make sure the bore isn't egg -shaped neither. Honing is also only used to scratch up the cylinders a little for help in seating the rings, not to clean out scratches.

Hard to say, the keihin carbs are very sensitive. You'll have to try different positions and see where your shee likes to be at. My shee liked the 2nd clip w/ the pwk carbs, but liked the 5th clip w/ the pj carbs, so go figure...you will notice a difference though. At least the keihins are a lot easier to change.

Rebuild it meaning you have to pull the cylinders and have them bored out and put some oversize pistons in. Should be night and day if your compression is low. Buy a compression guage for $20-30 and see where you stand. you should be around 128 on both sides at sea level.