Scott M

50/50 auto coolant / water (denatured/boiled) works. If overheating is a issue you can try the expensive stuff and/or an additive.

1/4 throttle to 3/4 is "mid-range" - sounds lean try moving your needles up= clips down 1 notch on both carbs/slides. Welcome to the WOW feeling :biggrin: You wont get that on the new 4-stroke's.

"Bigger is better" Like I always say sometimes but not in this case, Just trying to save you some time and $$.. 32mm/33PWK is plenty on gas, anymore and you risk #1 lower throttle response #2 losing some bottom-end. You could even get away with stocks bored to 28's... if money is an issue.

Temp gage if you don't have one is your most important mod/tool. Critical to know your coolant temp if you think your getting hot. Several things you can do to lower temp: Expensive coolant - purple something (anybody have a link?) Coolant additive - water wetter In-line cooler - several shops sell small pieces you cut into your hose. Move your overflow tank - many people take them off or leave them in stock position. That tank doesn't work there, so if your cap is working and calling for more coolant it wont get it = possible overheat. If you want to know more about any of these dig into the search function here at BHQ.

just as a rule of thumB: Stroker for torque/hill climbs, BigBore for power everywhere. Both for Ludacris Speed. Loss of bottom-end power for both is debatable, however if you have 10+ hp gain on mid and top who cares about 2-3hp on low end..? If money is an issue you want to ask yourself: what is broken? If the crank needs to be rebuilt anyways then your spending 1/2 the $ anyways, midas well go for it. If your top end needs refresh then go for the porting. If your sleeve is toast/on last bore then go for big bore. My advice is do 1 at a time so you can feel the difference of each. Best non-bolt on power is good porting. Start there if you already have pipes, filter. timing, gearing, tires etc.

I'll put it simply: Reed Spacers are JUNK, even if you have larger carb's get the offset boots from UMI to raise the carbs w/o spacers.

Banchetta should mention that he has "torque pipes" PTR-Mids are designed for low range/low RPM power- Larger carbs are designed for more topend + more flow. The combination of the 2 obviously doesnt work as you get a funnel effect of too much going into the jug's and not enough comming out. With differtent pipes especially High-Rev pipes, Bored stockers + larger carbs have proven them selves over + over. Imho the stock carbs do work very well untill race or dragg porting. I've said this over + over on BHQ: the stock carbs flow more than the stock reed cages can handle. So I would first have your cages ported for $70 + get good reeds or buy some DVF2's for $220. Then I would look into porting + pipes, then finally different carbs, all of which your porter should suggest what to get. If you already have pipes they will kinda dictate what kind of porting + carbs to get if you want to all that. Many times ppl just get Pipes, ported cages, milled head + timing advance and that 12hp gain is enough depending on what your doing. Read on and Ride Hard! Scott []v[]

BoonMan or I can do it, PM 1 of us and we will get you going asap. Usually it is 1day turn around, the rest of the time is up to ups or usps.

Almost 2yrs ago now, MobilDyno had a web page that showed results of most of the reed cages + Ported and the results were: DVF2's + Ported cages were the only 2 that made any difference of about only +2hp. The site is gone w/no copy and I did not copy any dyno sheets. But they showed DVF2's w/a steady +2hp bottom,mid+top ranges. The Ported w/TDR reeds showed same except +3 more hp on top-end. Since then I have read 2 things: The TDR's reeds often break and 1 person built a Dragg Racer that got +7hp for DVF2's on topend vs Ported cages. IMHO for MX + dune play depending how serious you are either 2 do about the same thing. I ride MX on Ported and have plenty of bottom-end. I say if you have the $220 to blow go for it, If you want a better value and dont care about a lable get the ported cages for $70+reeds for $33. Read on and Ride Hard! Scott []v[]

PWK28's! Everybody that has them seems to love them, and they seem to give the best throttle response. Luckally I got mine used, but now I can get a new bare set for $220. CPW has 30's that are about the same thing, a kit is like $299. The word is the mic's are easier to tune but don't have as much peek performance- and it's just personal preference and how much you want to spend. If you just want larger carbs you can bore your stockers for about $80. Of course none of this really matters if your useing stock reeds+cages, why DVF2's instead of ported + good reed's?

"DB (sound) lvl checked today: 92 at idle about 110 1/4 throttle, seems alot quieter that that, definately quieter than my T4's they probbably all need repacking But I'll just have to risk riding her untill I get more packing." There is a review of Bill's pipes in the review section that I moved there from a long discussion back on about page 5 of this section. 110db is on old packing, I still have not repacked and tested since then. I may be doing it soon tho as I just got CPI's for my other shee and the CPI's seem quieter on a larger+more modded engine. Read on and Ride Hard! Scott []v[]

the big round thing is the flywheel, that nut and a key on a tapered shaft keep it in place. I can show you a technique to hold the flywheel to get the nut off and you need a $12 flywheel puller to get the wheel off the shaft, I can show ya how to do that too. Then there is 3 bolts on the stator (the wire coil thing) to the plate. The plate has 3 mounting screws and 2 screws for the pick-up coil. The wiring harness goes to the stator and has 2 screws for clamps on the back. A service manual would be really helpfull for you if you don't have 1. Finally you can put it all back togther and gap the pick-up coil to .030" to a node on the flywheel.

I havn't ridden DMC's but I would suggest Bill's for everything except 6th gear racing wfo. They are "high-rev" pipes but I think they have plenty of low-end as well.

You need some mechanical aptitude to do any work on a banshee, but if you can use common tools you can change a timing plate out. I can send instructions w/a plate and/or I will be here online most of the time. At $25 and +2hp it is almost more troubble than it is worth but some riders just like to work on their shee's and get every extra little bit out of her. It's definately worth it when you can grab a higher gear climbing that long hill. Read on and Ride Hard! Scott []v[]

the TORS "brain box" is under the gas tank mounted to the frame by the left expansion chamber. It's about a 1" cube w/a 3 prong plug, disconnect and seal the plug w/silicone to deactivate. There are 3 other switches which may or maynot cause probblems. I have detailed instructions on them and complete TORS removal if you want them shoot me a PM. @ the bottom of the flywheel is a pick-up coil, it should be spaced .030" from a node. Read on and Ride Hard! Scott []v[]