Felonious_Monk

Where the steerig stem meets teh upper part of the frame...............there are these rubber "washers" that are more like bushings..........those might be toasted. I can't imagine that you tore through your lower bearing........it isnt really a high stress area....unless you hit somethign real big.......and then you would know that taht is why it broke. Check out the upper mount......Thats proabably your problem... later Monk

If you want to remove the system without buying the kit, it is really easy, and you can still keep those tops on the carbs untill you update to something bigger. Underneath your gas tank, on the left side of the quad you will see a small black box attached by one screw. Remove this box and either cut the wiring flush to the harness, or just simply unplug it at its connection. Be sure that you are disconnecting the box that is held on by one screw, and not your coil which is held in place by two screws....and attached to your spark plugs. On your thumb throttle, you will see a wire coming out of it.....open your throttle up, pull out the plug/switch that is in there along with wires, and follow that wire to the harness and cut flush......or simply disconnect at the connection. On top of your carbs, you ahve those huge "boxes" you will see wires coming out of them......Cut those, and follow to the harness and cut flush....or, once again, disconnect at the connections. That is it. TORS is gone. Note. I personally cut all of the wires flush to the harness. Why? Because I didn't want the loose wires dangling around making it look "messy". I cannot go back to stock without getting a new harness and some new carb tops with TORS. If you want to be able to go back to stock for whatever reason......you do not want to cut the wires at the harness......just unplug them and tape the dangling connectors up. If you want to troubleshoot and see if your tors is really giving you the problem.....all you have to do is unplug the box under the tank nest to the coil.....That is the brain of the system...and if removed, it gets rid of tors.....if that turns out to not be the problem....you can just plug it back in if you "fear for your safety" Good Luck Later Monk

The swaybar mounts to the front of the upper a-arm bolts. And the "arms" of the swaybar point backwards and mount to theback of the lower shock mounts. It takes a little.....finesse....to get it to line up right, but once you have it in place, it fits right in there. It looks a little confusing at first, but you will see where it goes...... Later man Monk

Boonman........Could you drop me a price on how much to lighten my flywheel as well??? Do you lighten just the "circumference" or the face as well??? Thanks Monk

Thanks for the positive feedback guys...... Dirtbikez......did you understand the deal with the second headlight??? I still have a bunch of stuff laying around, and will be parting out a motor next week........anyone want dibs????? Later, monk

Just remember, that you are torqueing the cylinder NUTS to 20 ft/lbs not the actual studs...... I posted on this a few weeks ago, and mistakenly said just the opposite.....You really want to just sort of cinch the bolts down into place........Steel and aluminum dont go too well together!!!! Later, Monk

$350 shipped $200 plus shipping Screamin hit it right on the head. GUY'S......Just make an offer..... I put all of this stuff on here knowing that it wouldnt go for top dollar. If I was out for top dollar it would be on Ebay. I am just trying to clean out my shed.....and hook a few guys up. So. The deal still stands.....Make offers, no Reasonable offer will be refused. Later, Monk

Nice. I was checking out thier site after i posted that question, and kind of figured that out. I just thought the site was kind of vague in its layout.....and it took me a few minutes to figure it all out. Thanks Monk

Ok, so I set up a paypal account. The question is.....where do people send the money to?????????????? I mean, if someone wants to send me loot, where do they send it to??? who do they address it to??? Later, Monk

If banshee boy falls through.........I'll make the deal. I have a set of arms from an 03 limited......they are all black, and come with all bolts, sleeves, and caps. Like I said, if he falls through, let me know what you want to do. Later, Monk

I do have rear hubs....They are in perfect shape....except that one hub is missing two studs. They are straight as an arrow, and the splines are in perfect condition. Let me know what you want to do. Later, Monk I have pictures for everyone that asked for them..........I just dont have pic hosting.......anyone have a good place for hosting pictures that they want to tell me about???? Most of the pics I am taking are too big for email.....they are getting bounced back??? Anyone??

I was thinking that I could get about 50 shipped for them. They are in perfect shape. The bike that they were in had about 5* of timing advance ran the 18cc domes, and was ported. We never ran anything other than 114 octane, and never had any trouble at all!!. So, it really depends on your motors condition.....high compression needs higher octane. I think that there are a few sites that give the general compression for a given altitude.......maybe meats site.......maybe noss machine, I can't remember. I am at about 500 above sea level, and run 20cc domes....I do not have to run race gas. I run sunoco 94. And have no problems, but my timing is not advanced......and I could use a fresh bore job. Let me know what you want to do.... Later, Monk

I would start out with first doing a compression check. If it is easy to "crash start" like you said, and hard to kick start, I would tend to believe that it is not getting enough compression just by you kicking it over.....that is why it starts right up once "jumped"........?? Sorry I did nto answer the question you asked, but a quick compression test could rule out alot before you go spending money on new coils, stators, and CDI's....... Good Luck, Monk

The main benefit of the Dyna over the adjustable plate or degree key is this. With a key or plate, you timing is advanced to a set limit......say +4.....all the time. From idle to "redline" Where, with the Dyna it is preprogrammed to be 0 advance at idle, and it progressively increases throughout the rpm range, reaching....say +4....at redline. I was told that when putting on pipes, you are allowing to the engine to rev faster at higher rpms......which "overcomes" the stock ignition system.....That is why you advance the timing. The key's and plates will work fine.......but the dyna is THE SHIT, cause it keeps your stock timing at lower rpms, while still advancing timing in the upper rpm range where it is needed!! While it can be programmed, the benefits it gives in its "stock" form are still way larger than anything else. And then, if you know what you are doing, you can create your own timing curves, and basically have no end to the adjustability of your ignition system. Good Luck, Monk

I have a bunch of parts for sale. Most of the parts are off of a 97, some are off of an 03. I will also be parting out a few motors in the next week.....so If anyone is interested in anything stay tuned! I would rather have everyone MAKE ME OFFERS. No reasonable offer will be refused. Please don't ask me how much I want for something......You wont agree with my prices.... You can PM me here, or catch me on AIM. My screen name is frankniagra I can have pics to anyone that asks for them. Heres the list. -Stock black 03 a-arms pivot cups included -03 yellow stock front shocks.....great condition SOLD -03 stock front hubs.....no rotors.....no studs -stock left heel guard -2 sets stock foot pegs -Billet aluminum rear lowering bracket.....used one racing season -Stock front bumper -3 Key shrouds with key -Kickstarter....upper half only -2 stock shifters -Stock rear break pedal -3 TORS units.....the "brain" -Voltage regulator -Front fender brackets -Rear caliper.....needs rebuild -03 rear break assembly......with working brake light!! SOLD -03 rear break light switch....mounts above break pedal to work light above SOLD -stock 03 clutch perch with parking brake bracket -97 stock front hubs -Gas tank with cap and petcock -97 rear shock.....OK shape -2 Coolant overflow bottles -Black uncut front plastic.....few scratches -Upper steering stem bushing -Stock plastic clutch insert -Thumb throttle cover -Stock air box with filter -97 upper A-arms.....silver.....not great! -Stock head....perfect for getting decked -Stock front brake lines.....2 sets -Stock rear swingarm....Silver good shape -Stock rear carrier from above.....Good shape w/ bearings SOLD -Stock sprocket hub.....with or without sprocket SOLD -Stock rear disk hub......with or without disk SOLD -97 radiator -Jaws bumper -K&N clamp on filters w/outerwears -Pro Design 18cc domes perfect shape -01 stock steering stem -Renthal bars black with Blue pad -Heel Guards for AC ProPegs BRAND NEW -billet East coast atv brake line clamps for a-arms BRAND NEW And anything else that I forgot......Just ask, I might have it!!! I am going to leave this stuff on here for everyone to get a fair shot at.....after that it is off to Ebay for the top bidder. Everything I ship gets a tracking #, and will ship THE DAY I recieve payment!!! Later, Monk

I came across this site the other day looking for someone to powdercoat my frame again. www.finishingforums.com You can definitely find the answer to your question there. Later, Monk

I have a carrier off of an 03.......make an offer. Later, Monk

I have one front black plastic.......not too sure of the shape though. will give it a thorough cleaning, and take some pics......I'll get back to you asap....... The best way to contact me online is through AIM..... my screen name is frankniagra later, Monk

Bush is bad......real bad! You all say that farenheit9/11 is propoganda........what the f*ck do you think bush spews forth every day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What the f*ck do you think WMD is. WHat the f*ck do you think Homeland security is???? What the f*ck do you think the patriot act is??????? For all of you guys that say michael moore is a bundle of sticks... and stupid......well, my friends, i think that it is time for you to WAKE UP. Have you really seen the movie, or are you just going on what your friends friend said about it????? Do you guys read the papers?? Better yet, do you go to the editorials section and read them??? Forget about the front page, forget about the constant fears of "another terrorist attack".....Forget about fucking democracy in the middle east. Do you understand where the hatred for americans comes from??? do you understand why the muslims hate us?? do you have a fucking clue?????? Do you know where it all started??? Do you care to know???? And for the people that say screw the rest of the world....so what if they hate americans....PLEASE, I BEG OF YOU..........OPEN YOUR EYES The world is a far greater place than the United States. Bush is bad, real bad! Meat and Abyss said it better than I can. Go back and read what they wrote. That shit is REAL, the conditions our country is in is BAD.

I would say again to check your impellar if you are SURE that your radiator is not clogged. I also see that in your sig it says that you have a shaved head. Who shaved it?? Are you 100% sure that it was done correctly. My uncle built this crazy harley chopper......had trouble with the motor from day one.......they tried to trouble shoot for like two years........anyway, it turns out that the machinist bored the cylinder crooked!!!!!! How?? I dont know, needless to say that the guy felt like a total ass, and still apologizes till this day. The point is that sometimes shit goes wrong. Maybe your head was decked crooked?? I dont know. Like I said before, the cooling system is really basic. There are only a few things that can go wrong. I WOULD NOT USE YAMABOND ALONG WITH A HEAD GASKET TO REMEDY YOUR SITUATION. That shit getss messy real quick. Besides, do you want to fix the problem or just contain it???? Later, Monk

I am about to get my new frame powdercoated, and was wondering if anyone has a clue as to the general thread pitch?? Last time I had a frame powdercoated, they pushed in these little red things taht are supposed to be heat proof. Yeah, sure. This time, I would like to put bolts in all the holes to save the threads.... What should I do........I need some more opinions on what to do??? Later, Monk

It could be that your radiator is clogged?? Maybe check your impellar?? They are plastic, and some say that they can "melt"......Thats the reason for the aluminum ones....?? I dont really have an answer for you, because I have not experienced anything like what you describe. But, if I was in your situation, I would look to the impellar, the impellar gear, and then give my radiator a good flush. That is if I was positive that my head surface was within spec, and everything else checked out. There really isn't too much to the cooling systems on our shee's. Just go through the whole system. Just a note. I totally removed the overflow bottle, and all hoses related to it. I have had no problems whatsoever to date. I just check my coolant level more often. Good luck Monk

JJ, you are correct......I re-read what i posted, and must agree. YOU DO NOT WANT TO TORQUE THE -STUDS- TO 20LBS!!!!!! I was thinking about the nuts, not the studs....... Later, Monk

Not to be a dick........... But..... I don't know if you have a Clymer's Manual or not, but I would definitely suggest investing in one. You should also get a good torque wrench. I believe that the head studs are supposed to be torqued to like 15 lbs.....and then do them again to 20 lbs. You are trying to tighten a steel bolt into aluminum......One is harder than the other, thats why you stripped it. It doesnt take too much, as you can already tell. It might save you next time. Later Monk

I have one, but I would have to look at it. I'm sure it is in good to great condition.......Make an offer. I am in NJ, where are you located at? Let me know if you are interested, I can take pictures. Later, Monk