Felonious_Monk

I have a set of cylinders bored .060 over coming back from the machine shop in a couple of day.......I will not break up the pair........If you want both of them pm me and we can work something out. Later, Monk

Now, I am not saying this as fact......But with K&N clamp on filters, I would think that you should have higher main jets in your carbs. I have a K&N with the stock box and I am at 320 with toomey pipes. The clamp on filters deifnitely flow alot more air......!! Maybe your jetting is off......thats why you are slow...Does it "rev out" without seeming to pull all the way to the top?? Good luck Monk

I have one.....maybe two, i'll have to look if you are really interested........I think they are at least two inches wide...you have to use new hub studs, but I have them as well....brand new....And I do think that the warrior and the shee share the same bolt pattern....... Let me know what you want to do..... Later, Monk

Jinxx man, no problem....... shit happens sometimes... To sparkzilla.......the K&N clamp ons are for stock carbs......I do not know if they will fit 35mm's but am pretty sure that they would be super tight........If you can find out otherwise, I'm sure we can agree on something that will work for the both of us. And to everyone else.......I still have ALOT of stuff left........Just PM me and I will get back to you asap...!!!! I also have to say that I will vouch for anyone that I have sold something to.......everyone was legit, prompt, and up front......Thanks guys. Later, Monk

I think AC makes a set of pro pegs that have the pegs set back and down some........ Monk

Is the clutch cable adjusted properly??? Are you saying taht once you get it started, you pull in the clutch.....put it in gear.....and it "catches" and stalls.......????? Good luck Monk

While everyone has good advice if in fact your shee is actually overheating......I have to ask you this. Is your overflow bottle still in the same location???? Is it real full??? Alot of shees seem to be overheating when in fact they are not. The stock overflow bottle location is a poor design from the factory. For instance.......Going up a steep hill, or wheelying.....makes the coolant "slosh" up into the tube that runs over your pipes......when you go back down hill, that coolant that was forced into the tube then runs out, over your pipes.......That is why you think it is overheating. I do not remember the site that has the picture of where to relocate the bottle to, but i'm sure taht someone will chime in soon enough. If no one remembers the site, get in touch with me....I'll try to explain it better. I would take a good guess that this is your problem......you arent actually overheating.....or maybe you are. ?? I would check your overflow bottle first. If it is real full.....empty it out a bit, maybe even empty it to the low mark. See if the problem goes away....if it does, you shouldnt have any problems at all. I dont even use the overflow bottle anymore.....I relocated it to get rid of the same problem you are having, but then had to move it to put on a steering stabilizer......I meant to put it back on, but never had any problems with it off.....I just regularly check the level in my radiator...Havent had to top it off at all!!! Good luck Monk

Yeah..............what exactly is the difference between heims and ball joints???? Besides the fact taht one is lubed and the other isnt??? I guess my janssen arms are the mx-tech arms......."designed for mx" and they came with heims. With the heim joints, I can set ANY camber/castor setup I like....ball joints can only face one way, the heims can be taken apart so you can go a half of a turn. Anyway, what are the pro and cons of the two?? later, Monk

I have galfer lines on my shee. I got them for free when I ordered my Janssen A-arms. They have worked flawlessly. No fitment issues whatsoever. The only thing that has happened with mine is that the "plastic" coating put on to prevent the stainless braid from cutting/wearing on my frame and parts got a tear....or melted from being pressed tight up against my radiator. I just wrapped some electrical tape around that one spot. This is the thing. The brake lines I recieved have two seperate lines coming off of the master cylinder......its like a double long banjo bolt. My brother got a set of galfer lines, and they are one line from the master cylinder to a tee, and then two lines to the wheels...... Whats the difference?? I don't know. Does one setup work better than the other??? I don't know....I mean maybe there is some insignifigant difference in the two systems, but we sure havent noticed it. Was one setup easier to bleed than the other??? No, not really. You wont have any problems with galfer lines.....or any lines for that matter..... I would just make sure that the lines are coated with something so they dont scratch the hell out of your quad. Good luck Monk

What about the jaws bumper.......... Get back to me if you are still interested...........???????????????????

I have a set of cylingders for sale.........$150 shipped.....pm me if you are interested, or catch me on AIM........... Later, Monk

20cc at 534ft above sea level exactly. Sunoco ultra 94, no pinging at all.

wait a minute.......my janssen +2+1 arms have heims????? and I DID NOT have to ream anything?????? Have they come out with a new design????? I'd like to seee a pic if at all possible? Later, Monk

I have the buper you are looking for......not the headlights though. PM me, and we can talk. Later Monk

PM me.......... I'm sure I have what you need.. Later Monk

Prices vary pretty greatly on powdercoating depending on where you live. I do know that the Chrome powder is more expensive due to the fact that there are TWO coats involved.........Instead of the basic colors which only require one coat. I just paid $200 for a damn good job in super mirror yellow.....I am in New Jersey though.... Where are you located?? I'm sure someone can lead you in the right direction. Later Monk

01 Blaster.....No man, I don't have the hubs anymore... Otis...You have a PM Wongs.....You have a PM South rider......$25 shipped and its yours......PM me if you are interested Misfitz......I do not have the whole kicker......just the top half.....I do not want to sell the petcock without the tank......I will sell the whole tank for $35 Shipped.....PM me if you are interested And to everyone that wants the whole bottom end of the motor.....I would rather part it out, than sell it whole. I will be posting an updated list shortly........alot of parts have sold, but I still have more to add...... Later, Monk

Anyone know anyone that has the Alpinestars Vector Boot?? I am looking at the tech 8's, and those.......What are the differences??? All I can tell really is that the tech 8's have a little more support....They seem a little more..."plastic", where the vector appears to be a little more flexible....... I guess I just need to try both on and make my own decision..... Later, Monk

What kind of boots do you guys wear.........and how did you break them in???? I have heard that most are uncomfortable when they are new. So I was wondering how everyone breaks them in. Later, Monk

PM me, or catch me on aim.......frankniagra is my screen name. I might be able to help you out. Later man, Monk

I sent you a pm a few weeks ago about the skidplate and you never got back to me........ I am definitely interested.... Get back to me..... Later, Monk

I have a perfectly good stem and renthal bars for sale. I'll do $85...you pay shipping???? I can have it in the mail tomorrow if you are interested. Let me know what you want to do.... Later, Monk Later

And this guy works at a dealer...........

Sand......I just looked at my shee again, and then opened up the clymers to see what is "RIGHT"....... It should go....from top to bottom.....seal, screw down retainer, bearing, seal/collar (collar sits inside of seal), and then washer and nut from the bottom. I scanned the page from the clymers.....but I don't have a pic host......I can email it to you if you want....pm me or leavfe your address here Later man Monk

I am dealing with a total rebuild of my shee once again.....and am waiting on those exact bearings as we speak. I thought about your problem a little more, and come to think taht it might not be those little bushings in the top after all. At the bottom of the stem there are a few parts. from the top down it goes........Seal, screw down retainer, bearing, seal........the stem goes through it all...and then you put this metal "collar" or "washer" in through the bottom, around the stem and inbetween the seal.....(I hope that made sense) After the collar, you put your washer and nut on the end of the stem and tighten. Is it possible that you had this apart not to long before you had troubles......I dropped the "collar" that goes in through the bottom once before, I tried to tighten down the nut on the bottom, but it didnt work........I found the "collar" the next day. Go back and check again......the collar is what holds the stem "down".......The washer and nut tighten against the collar which in turn tightens "up" to the bottom of the bearing -on the inner race. If the collar was gone, it would seem possible to pull the steering stem up some. Good Luck Monk ps...that has to be the most confusing thing i have ever written