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I run the Uni with both oiled and an outerwear! I had the 1 inch uni vents but they were a pain. I now have a large hole on the lid and the back of the box that I covered with outerwear material that I put velcro on. It has a side benefit too! If the weather gets a little cool I can just pull off a part of the outerwear instead of rejetting!

I always let mine idle and warm up for about 2 minutes. Then ride it easily for a 1/4 mile or so and it seems to be working for me. My buddy has an 03 and he just kicks it & rips it...he has already had to put a top-end on it

Check your compression...it may be time for a rebuild. Usely it is necessary to go higher (bigger) on the main jet when it gets colder since the air is more dense.

My bet is on the 310...possibly a 320! Let us know what you end up with!

Ill bet ya a dollor to a donut that it isnt for a Banshee! Let's see the picture, cause I am a little curious! OuT

Get a compression tester and post the results. The decline in performance may be hard to notice as it usually keeps getting worse little by little. Oncy you hone or bare you will notice the difference. Do the compression test and post back!

Sorry Wiz, I know nothing about 35's. Unless your weather is changing drastically from day to day (more than 20 degrees) I wouldnt know what else would cause your probs. I hope someone else can help!

I run MORE oil than that and have never fouled a plug! I run 28:1. I would look at your jetting. How does it run? What jet's are you running???

Please let us know how much the top end rebuild cost ya!

To make it a tad louder and no rejetting is required!

I love the pro-comp/works setup I run...very smooth. The paint on the arms didnt hold up well and where the shocks mount on the lowers have to be widened so the shock will fit. Other than that it is a good set-up!

No! Everyone junks the crap airfilter before it ruins their motor! Dont be cheap on this one. Buy a good set up! Uni, K&N, twin with an adapter are all ten times better than stock.

Sweet, I finally helped someone...do I get 2 stars or something??? Glad it worked out. I thought it was strange that could happen when I hadnt even removed that drain screw. Scary how dirt can get into such small places!!

What he said! When all else fails, read the E'ffin manual or cough up $30 bucks and buy a Clymers and quit wasting everyones time!!! Kidding really!

Sell it, your frames bent...really BAD!

I had the same problem with mine a while back. Found out that after cleaning the carbs I had failed to take the drain screw out, sand had worked it's way in there and the thing wouldnt shut off all the way. Give that a try!

Yup, I run with a slight bog during the summer then spot on during winter. I suppose I should stop being lazy and rejet...Maybe this spring???

Look in the back of some of the more popular ATV magazines. They sell a kit that uses the existing bolts on the end of the swingarm. All you do is take the carrier off and bolt the extension in then bolt the carrier in the new extension. I have seen one is use on a Blaster and heard from several that have used them with no problems. If you are going big up on the dunes you might want to just buy an extended one.

Yup, that's the one. Some of the chain sliders you actually have to take the swing arm bolt out to put it on.

I love the V force. I noticed an all around performance gain. Like 2banshee said, the instructions say NOT to change the position of the reeds. I didnt change my needle either. Maybe the reeds are worn out? How much did you pay for them??

Pull the petcock off, there is a little rubber seal in there. It mught be deteriorated.

Thanks guys, NO I didnt take it to the dealer. After I realized it was hanging up the first thing I did was pull the brake off, unfortunately it did not help. The spacers they sent work on mine, I just had to figure out where exactly the washers were supposed to go. Boonman, if you have never used a torque wrench on a stock Yamaha axle and have never had problems I think that you must be living right! The shop manual has very detailed instructions on this procedure and is a very important step that is supposed to ensure that you axle nuts dont come lose. I am still waiting for word from the RAD tech and am NOT happy that they didnt contact me!!!

The heat at the brake and sprocket carrier is what is bothering me. I hope to hear back from the tech on Monday!

Well, I went out and went through the process again. This time I only tightened the inner to 35 lbs. NOW I am getting heat at the sprocket and the brake carrier. Damnit I dont know what to do! Any experts that can help?

Well guys, I have had my Shee apart for over a month and just buttoned it up tonight with the shiny new RAD carrier...my problem is that when I torqued the axle nuts onto the axle the wheels will not roll at all when the back end is off the ground (freewheel). It feels like I had the nuts on way too tight. I have a torque wrench and the Yamaha axle nut tools. I did the math correctly (as specified in the Banshee Clymer manual) Has anyone ever had this happen? I torqued the inner nut to 40 Lbs (36) then torqued the outer nut to 140lbs (123) and then torqued the inner nut back onto the outer nut to 177lbs (156) I got MORE than the required 3mm. I loosened the nuts and the thing freewheels like it should. Any Ideas??? Damn I hope the bearings are OK, I only rode it about 200 yards... Will the grease "loosen" up after time? I packed the Shant out of the bearings by hand then topped it off with the Zerk...