Cotton eyed Joe

One of those brocolli rubber bands on the bars. Personally I wouldn't do it.

I would use one. I used to, and to be honest, it was beat to shit, which means I probably needed it. St Anthonys is the worst for the out croppings. Just do what you never thought you should do: DONT straddle the rocks. If you don't care about weight, run a skid. Its worth it. I will be using one as soon as I get the skid plate mounts made for my swingarms, and I start fabbing skids.

Its common. Its the first part to wear out IMHO. Weld it up, and then grind it down to where its supposed to be so you don't get locked in the furthest turning point. It can happen.

Well, since I don't have the correct bobs or sanding rolls yet, what I did is I took a pencil and put the sand paper over the eraser part, and kind of twisted it in the smaller areas where it would fit. In the other parts, I used a small piece of wood that had been cut on about a 10 degree angle to a point with the sand paper on it. (like a wedge). I also went to WalMart and bought a 320 grit sanding sponge. Those small areas are a BITCH!!!! When I buffed, I just crammed the whole thing into my wheels to get as much in there as I could. I've tried the small buffs, and I end up either busting up my part with the nut that holds the buff on the air tool, or I end up spinning it too fast and burning the buff. It takes a delicate touch!! I also would recommend that after you think** you are done with a particular grit, that you sand in a direction 90 degrees to what you just sanded. This will show every deep scratch that you thought you got, and didn't. These will stick out bad when you get around to polishing. Also, when you use a finer grit like 400, either wet sand it, or un clog the paper very often by smacking it on to something, like your pants (thats what I did). I've found that the paper will unload itself for you, and put a nice fat 220 grit scratch right in the part, and that means you get to resand that area. Something else I did, is I had some larger cartrige rolls, and I used those to clean up the mis matches in some parts of the casting. This made for quick work around some of those bolt bosses and some corners. The edges of the cartriges round very quickly, so I was careful, and changed them often just so I could have a cylinder shaped cartridge, and not a bullet shaped one. I think that was about all I did to it. I just spent tons of time on it while my lathe was running, and my hands would hurt so bad at the end of the day. I think all told I spent over a week in the shop here and there while a machine was running, or if I had a day off. It wasn't fun, but the pay off was worth it.

Talk to DuneDemon about this. He works there, and knows what you need.

I've got one that I made about a year ago, and never used. Its not the prettiest finish since I made it on the manual lathe, and not the cnc. I could clean it up a little though. Not sure about how many fin it is either...I'm sure its more than 15.

lol

WTF??? I'd have to clean it after every ride!!!!!! She'd be messy as hell

LOL!!!!! I've upgraded to either stainless button heads, grade 5 or black oxide cap screws.

B370 is right. DO NOT MENTION THE WORDS "RACE BIKE". I found this out back in 98 when I was trying to both get insurance and a loan for it. After some hasseling I started using the term ATV. I still had to explain what that meant, but at least I was able to get something done. When I used the term race bike, I was offerend bare minimum insurance, and no personal, or liability insurance. It was like that for 2 years. Then I switched to Allstate and saved a ton on insurance. I have liability, personal injury, and if I want to go above and beyond the market value for aftermarket parts I just call them and tell them to get their asses out to my shop for an appriasal, and to look at receipts.

Honestly I sort of have, but right now the outcome wouldn't justify the means. Lol...like BBB said I've sort of sponsored myself for now, but later on, you never know. I would like to one day if my company can afford it.

When you see him Chris, tell him that "Stan needs a saet couber NOW!!! and his bike looks like shit with the stock black one"

HAHA And I have them on my truck. Skat Trak is a good place to start. If you ask them to mail you one of their free catalogs, you'll get a shit load of stickers. Most of mine got ruined before I found a place for all of them.

Hey, Im interested in how that mounts up, and the dimensions of it. Is there anyway you could PM (or email me) some more pictures and #'s???

I've emailed them a dozen times trying to get set up as a dealer. They always reply back with "send us your mailing info and we will ship out a dealer package asap" nothin.

I don't think I could get that close to another guy.

The chrome on the springs still looks brand new. I didn't get the chance to jump at all at Dumont so I don't know how that will go over, but I will Easter weekend. Thats about all we do, is find some rolling dunes to hit. I did get sand blasted a little out there, but I haven't seen any chipping. My objective is to NOT get sand blasted however.

LOL That would be nuts Travis, but I think between you, Jethro, and me, there are going to be 3 of them running around. hehe On the 1 1/8 bar clamps, they are $85.00. $85.00-$8.50=$76.50 shipped. Here is a pictures sort of.

I would be more than happy to put pictures up if there aren't any objections My total list includes (but not limited to since I add more products now and again) Front and Rear stainless brake lines Clutch cover inserts Thumb throttle covers Front brake ressy covers Parking brake block offs Hand grips Foot pegs I'm a Noss dealer so I can get heads and domes Swing arms, any length Carriers for the swingarms (we make our own) Bar clamps for 1 1/8 bars Bar clamps for 7/8 bars with or without key mount Water pump covers Rear grab bars with or with out lights. All stock tabs and fender supports too. I also can get bearings for anything. I'll admit they aren't the cheapest bearings I can find, so the prices I give you will be a little higher than most. I figure my name is on this shit, I'm not going cheap on a bearing unless I'm asked to by a customer. Some of this I don't have pictures of, and others I do, but not here at the house unfortunately. Next on my list is going to be grills, skid plates, rotors, front bumpers, if I can get a tubing bender I plan on making drag bars, a-arms, and subframes. Basically just about everything I can. I'm also going to start making parts for other bikes later on this year. I have a few locals that are willing to let me guinea pig their bikes for a few weeks at a time. I also have a few projects I hope to start, and a few super top secret projects that may or may not happen.

To answer your question of "are they that much better".....Yamaha switched to full upper a arms back in 89, so I would say yes. I would just dig around in the phone book. Its not like its going to take all day to weld the kit in. Expect to pay a shop rate, or minimum though. It would be worth it.

Thats the best way to grab someones attention is the numbers. Start leading the pack, and then like Mullet Head says go digging for sponsors. The whole point of a sponsor ship is advertising. When you are out in front, and people are going nuts and smashing beer bottles on their heads because they can't believe how good you are, they will also notice what is on your bike. Then the "Be Like Mike" attitude kicks in. They want those parts too. It can be done, but you got to start in the same place that everyone else did.

Parking brake block offs are $23.00 polished and shipped. Take 10% off and thats $20.70 shipped. If you don't want it polished let me know, and I can knock some off for that.

To remove the parking brake assembly from the rear brake, you take out the 2 bolts holding it on, take the assembly and throw it over your right shoulder, then you get a parking brake block off. Put it on with the 2 bolts you presumably still have and you're done.

BWAAHAAHAA

When I had mine, I tried to adjust it so that it would actually work, and hold the bike on an incline. When I did, it would drag while riding. So, I loosened it. Then the damn thing wouldn't hold shit while it was on, so I took it off altogether. POS imho.