Blacksmith

I will take it, email me please. [email protected]

Guys, I am running 19 cc domes on a bike with stock internals. This gives me about 161 lbs of compression at 3000 feet. For this setup I have been running 93 oct pump gas. However, I have been told that when I drop down to 1500 feet I will be over 175 psi and will need to run better fuel. There is no way that I can afford to run $5 a gallon 110 oct race gas so what I am wondering is can I use 104+ additive or perhaps avgas? Will a stock crank hold up under 175 lbs of compression, or do I simply need to come up with the cash for a set of 20cc domes? Thanks for the input.

Hey Guys, When you look at a set of stock carb slides, there is a hole through the center of the slide next to the hole the needle is in. You can put the cable clip in such that it either covers this hole or leaves it partially open. Which way should you put the clip in, does it matter, does it effect the way the bike runs, and if so why. Thanks.

Any good machine shop should be able to do it for $20-40 bucks. You don't want to take off more than .030 unless you are going to reshape the domes.

Sounds good.

When the clutch lever is NOT pulled in, does the arrow on the clutch cam and the arrow on the upper case half line up? When you do pull the clutch lever, is the clutch cam moving. If the answer to both of these questions is yes, then your problem is internal. Most likly you did not get the clutch boss set into all of the steels. The boss is being held out and the clutch is not really locking up. The other thing that could be going on is that the adjustor on the clutch boss is backed all the way out.

Ben, I think that a FAQ would be a really good idea. I would be more than happy to lend any help you need with it.

If you are talking about the water pump drive gear that is mounted on the end of the crankshaft, there is no reason to take it off unless you already have the crank out of the case. I don't remember for sure what size it is, but I think it is 21 or 22 mm. Good Luck.

A couple of points: 1) A leakdown test, while good for checking seal and gasket conditions, will not tell you anything about your rings. For that you need to run a compression test. 2) If you have the jugs off of the bike, take the to a machine shop or atv shop and have them checked for taper. If they have less than the allowance in the manual, by all means put new rings on the pistions. 3) If you have had a port job done, I would think that the least they would have done to the bore would be to hone it to remove any stray tool marks. If they did not, I would sure do it before I put my bike back together. Any time that you hone a cylinder you want to replace the rings, and with the exception of a few types of specially lined cylinders any time you change rings, you want to hone the bore.

Yes you can use the older style and it should plug right in without any problem. I think that you will need the older style mounts as well, but I am not sure.

JMHO but I don't think that blue plastic would go well with the color of red on the new frames. Sorry, but you did ask.

I like the old style DG bars the best. They give you a lot of options for where and what style of pegs you run. I think they look the best when they are polished as well.

Give Jim's Sand Toys a call. He has the best prices I have found on the CPIs and I am sure that he will cut you a good deal on the crank. Jim's Sand Toys

It could be a lot of things. Did you put both the rod and the ball back into the tranny input shaft? Did you line up the arrows on the clutch basket and the clutch boss? Is the bottom end of the cable moving? Are the arrows lined up? Did you follow the manual when you adjusted the clutch? Any info you could give might help us help you.

The Black/White and the Black/Red wires need to be make a circut for the bike to run. A working switch will also make a circut of the Red and Brown wires, but as they connect to nothing, you do not need to work about them. If your bike will run without the B/W and B/R wires connected then you have a short somewhere else in your harness. If the bike runs sometimes and sometimes will not then you have an intermittent short. I would say that when you first had what you thought was a switch failure, that is when the short developed. Any point on the frame will be a ground, it does not have to be at the Voltage Reg. Good luck

da Shee does have two sides to the stator. One for lights and one for fire. You need to OHM your stator as well as the coil. If that checks well here is what I would do. 1) Trade coils ( they can OHM good and still not work.) 2) Disconnect the key switch and jump across the plug in. 3) Disconnect the park brake safty switch 4) Check the pickup coil gap on your stator. 5) Get that rust out off of there. 6) Check the plugins right beside your airbox. I have had trouble there. 7) Replace the CDI (which I think is your problem anyway, but check everything else first.

We have had Utility ATVs for several years for work on the farm, but as for sport bikes, I bought a Warrior about 2 years ago. Then my brother bought a Raptor, and the Dad bought his first Banshee. Now we all ride Banshees and Dad is on his second one. I have to agree with you loco, I sure hope I am still riding when I am his age.

bump

Well, to start with I would not worry about the bike being off center. I would simply pull from the downhill or back side. As for getting the rope around the rear axle, I would tie a ball knot around a softball size rock and wedge it in front of the rear tire, and put the bike in gear. The rock under the tire would pull the rope through. The off center line of the bike will cause the rope to pull in to the axle. As for the front end, there you would simply have to dig. You really need to get that rope under there. Now, as for a tie off, I guess that I wouldn't have a handy rock out cropping, that would be too easy. My next try would be to use as large a forked stick as I could find. Something that looks like a Y. I would try to wedge the forked in into the biggest rut I count find. Then I would try to drive any other branches I could find into the rut about 2-3 feet closer to my bike. When the pressure from the axle wench begins to pull the wedge, I will be well dug in before it gets to the stakes. One other thing, if the front end is really dug in, I would create a leaning a-frame in front of the bike and running the rope over it. That way the pressure on the rope would lift the front of the bike. Sorry for the book, but I really don't want to fail your test. :-)

Or no pully and tie off on both sides of the rear axle. This would make you pull strait but you would lose the advantage of the pully. Many many ways to self recover, all that matters it that you get out of the mud.

Thanks Sandman, and I wish I could take credit for it, but it is simply an application of the almost lost art of winchless self recovery. Axle wenches, wheel rope drums, a-frames, sand anchors, and sliding base boards are all things that have been used by those that did not have a wench avalible, or had nothing to hook a wench to. With a good rope and a little planning there is almost no where that you can't get a vehicle to or out of.

No doubt, I would put in a heli coil. Installed properly I have never had one fail. If you do not feel comfortable putting it in your self, take it to a shop and have it done. Most will do it for around $20.

You already have a wench on your Shee, you just have to use it. Next time you are going out, wrap 25 - 50 feet of strong polly rope around your bumper. When you get stuck, find a tree out in front of you to tie onto. Run the rope through the bars of your lower left a-arm and under your left foot peg. Tie the bike end of the rope to one on the spokes on your rear sproket. Start your bike and put it in low gear and SLOWLY let out the clutch. Some care must be taken to ensure that you do not catch the rope in your chain. As the rope is wound around your axle you will pull yourself out of the mud. Running the rope through the front a-arm will keep the front end from digging in, or flipping over. Good Luck.

Not knowing what tools and facilities you have available you may not be able to do this, but when my bike was bent up I used a hydraulic jack and a short section of pipe to push things back into the correct place. I tied my frame down to a steel bench and pushed up to fix the grab bar area. I pushed from my swingarm mount to the top of the steering stem mount to fix that area. Good Luck.

Don't know about the bracket, but if you want to get rid of the Ohilns, let me know.