Blacksmith

The PD impeller is a soft POS that will cut out under the seal lip and leak in a very short time compaired to stock. I know, had it happen. As such, I would not replace the stock one with a PD. I might however buy a new stock one and for sure would buy a new drive gear. If you are making that much heat then I'll bet you have melted at least a slot in the back of the one you have. I would put a noss head on the bike, but the most important thing I would do is jet up at least a couple of sizes. Good Luck

You use a snap guage inside the cylinder, and then read the size of the snap guage with a mic. A snap guage looks like a "T" with one of the top sections spring loaded and a twist lock on the bottom. I am sure that in the machine world they have another name, and I'd even bet that that name in on the inside of my case, but I have never looked at it. :-)

From looking at your picture, I am pretty sure that your oil leak is from the counter shaft (the one with the front sprocket) seal. It will not be leaking because of an over tightned sprocket nut, but more likley a worn spacer that runs inside that seal. Those spacers are not very hard, and wear over time. On the subject of the sprocket nut, I would get it replaced with the proper nut, and the lock washer. If that is not the proper nut on there then it does not have the correct depth on the shoulder, if it has a shoulder at all. The factory nut is designed to strip out when over tightned and leave the threads on the shaft alone. As for why the NEUTRAL SWITCH ASSY is listed in the elec section, the small screw on it is where the ground wire for the neutral light went on the RZ street bike. The grommet that is missing had that neutral wire routed through it so the wire could exit the area with the stator wires.

I have one that I have taken off of my bike. It needs a new roller and bearings for the lower side. I will sell it to you for $50 if you are interested.

I am using snap gauges and a mike to meaure the bore, and just a mike to measure the pistons. The pistons are well in spec on the skirt, but I was not sure if that is where I should measure them or not. As for the ring gap, that is the real question. We have not been in this motor before, but as the bore is stock, I don't see how the rings could be a size too small. I really think that the increased gap is simply a factor of excessive ring wear. However, it is hard to believe that one could end up with that much wear on the rings, and have the bore and pistons measure out as still being perfect. I think that we are going to hone it and install fresh rings. I don't like the idea of installing new pistons in a bore that was not cut to size exactly for them, but I might go that route. Anyone out there ever done it? BTW, thanks Boonman.

5 Bikes now on AmsOil 2000 at 50 to 1. No problems, now bad plugs, easy to start. Costs less that any other high preformance oil I have found. Have to wonder why anyone would use anything else.

bump

I have had a bike run pretty good with 215 psi on avgas, but it takes a lot of fuel to make it work. I feel pretty sure that you are lean. Pump up that main jet.

Boyson two stage on ported stock cages.

If the problem is only in the first 1/4 on the pull then the problem is most likley in the air screws or the pilot jet. Have you checked to see that both air screws are set the same? Have you checked to see that both pilots are the same number?

If you undo the plug in the harness that connects the switch you will see that there are two wires that connect the plug to the harness. Use as short section of solid core wire to jumper the two pins in the harness plug in. This will allow the bike to start. Don't worry about the 4 wires in the switch assy. Only two of them are used anyway.

Sounds like a bad bushing in the idler gear to me. Does the kicker go down smooth after it catches?

Get yourself a manual and a multi-meter. Go through all of the electrical system tests one at a time. If the system does not fail any tests, the try pulling the flywheel cover off and check the stator of rust. Check all of the connections one at a time and make sure they are clean and making good contact. Disconnect the TORS control box if the bike is so equipped, it is mounted on the same frame cross member as the coil. Good luck, and keep up posted on how you are coming along.

Hey Guys, Pulled down the topend on my brothers bike tonight because it has dropped about 20 psi on both sides over the past couple of months. Anyway, the bore measures almost perfect, but there is quite a bit of difference between the top and bottom of the piston. If I measure it down on the skirt, it is within the spec in the manual, but it is not within spec at the top. If the measurement at the bottom is the one to use, it looks like we are going to hone and re-ring, if not we will need to bore and buy new pistions. What do you guys think? Also, I might mention that the ring gap on the old rings was over .060. I am pretty sure that ring wear is why the compression has dropped so much.

The first thing that comes to my mind is that there is now way the back tires can lock up while the bike is in gear and the motor is running without causing the motor to die, unless the clutch is pulled in. Take the chain off, put the bike up on blocks and try to roll over the back tires. I think that your problem might be in your axle bearings. However as many others have stated, I think that you should take it back and see if you are still under warranty. Good luck, have fun.

Good idea on the checks and tests. If only one side was lean, most likley you had or have an air leak, or a blocked main in the carb. As for the cylinder, you need to take it to a machine shop and have them look at it. They can help you figure out what bore size you are on now, and what size you will need to go to in order to clean up the damage. When they are able to give you that size you can order a top end kit and have them bore both jugs to fit the new pistons. After that, slap it back together and ride. Good luck, have fun.

I think that this is by far the most common problem that people have with Banshees. I make quite a lot of money fixing this problem at $35 a shot. If you would have taken the $110 that you already spent and gotten a manual and some tools you would be money ahead this time. Get yourself a manual and take the clutch cover off of the bike and adjust the shift shaft. That is all that is wrong, and if you are going to stay in this game, you really need to be able to fix at least this problem. Good luck, and have fun.

Though I don't know why anyone would want to, if you are going to use yamalube in your banshee, use the 2R only.

24mm it the correct size socket. When mine did not want to come off, I just put them close to Evil's avatar and they heated right up and came off. Ohhhhh -- wait, those were'nt "axle" nuts.

When I started the move to a 2-1 setup I was running stock carbs with 270 mains and 27.5 pilots. I tried the 190/52 setup from Trinity and the pig was so fat it would hardly run. I am now at 168 main and 40 pilot. Now, I am not done jetting but I am pretty sure I am going to end up at 170 main and a 38 pilot. I don't think that there is any way that you were lean on your jetting. I am betting that you had an air leak. On that subject, I ALWAYS go over the intake system with small blasts of starting fluid with the bike running EVERY time I take the intake system apart. If you have an air leak and hit it with the fluid, the bike will rev to the moon for a sec. Good luck.

Go to your local dealer and get a new o-ring, spring, and ball. Then take the kicker apart, clean the parts, and put it back together with plenty of high quality grease. You will be good to go for about $5.

Of the 7 shees in the shed, only one shows any signs of what you are talking about. That one is clearly the result of a poorly built swing arm. The arm itself is straight and square, but the bolt holes in the back are not in the same place. If you take the swingarm out and measure from the bolt holes to the pivot bushing, it is not the same on both sides. A small difference here will show up bigtime out at the tires. Good Luck

Did you put the rubber plugs back into the bottom of the water jackets on the cylinders before you put them back onto the cases? If you did, the only way you could have a water leak at that point is if the plugs are not sealed or if you have a crack in the cylinder. The base gaskets are not designed to stop water, only air. I would pull the cylinders and check the plugs.

I would go with 21s so I could still run pump gas.

Use a set of side cutters or dykes. Clamp tight on the edge of the clip and lever the pliers side-ways. This will lever out the clip.