Blacksmith

Like someone said before, I would love to find someone to trade their Noss head for my Pro Disign, and here is why. Last weekend we had three bikes at the sandhills. One Noss head and two Pros. One of the bikes with a Pro head had been having heating problems that we traced down to a bad cap. After replacing the cap we took a pretty hard ride on all three bikes. After the ride we used a tempertaure gun to check them all, and the Noss head was almost 60 degrees cooler on the head temperature than either of the other two. Both of the Pro bikes were carriying a little more weight, but not that much. There is no doubt that the Noss head both looks better and works better. Go with the Noss, put a set of 19 in it and get your but up to Waynoka. :-)

While I agree with the talk here about porting and where to get a new crank, it sounds to me like your flywheel came loose. If that is the case, chances are you will not be needing a new crank. Good Luck.

Man, what a great time. Sorry I missed the picture and ride on Saturday, but we were working on a down bike. Duner nocked a hole in his rad and we had to patch it. We got to the gate about 12:30 and everyone was gone. Glad to meet those of you that I did and to all that I missed, I will catch you next time. BTW, anyone who did not ride Sunday, you missed the best sand of the weekend. The wind the night before really worked over the dunes. We were hauling ass all day long.

First of all let me say that it sounds to me as if both of these guys were looking for a fight, and each thought they were kind s**t of the sand. Seen it happen a bunch of times and it is never good. That being said, how many times have one of you been setting there watching the drags at LS and after about 10 runs, each of which you have been a safe distace away, you end up with some guy on a drag bike going by at 80, 3 feet from your front bumper. Or you are setting there watching and the next thing you know, another strip has started behind you, a few feet from where your kids are playing. Now I know that we are all looking for the best sand when we are lined up to run, but some riders push it a lot farther than is safe. I don't know what the answer is, I just wish that more of the drag riders would think about the safety of those that like to watch them run. Guys set me straight if I am wrong, but shouldn't we all look out for one another if we can? Is putting an extra bike length on that honda worth someone getting hurt? I mean your already beating him by 15

I will be there sometime Friday afternoon or evening. I will be in a white and brown 2002 Ford Powerstroke pulling a 30' enclosed trailer. I will have a black / white 2000 shee, a yellow/gray 97 shee, a blue 2000 shee, and a red/black 03 blaster, at the least. I will also try to bring at least 1 full set of extra paddles for someone with tape on their flag to use if thy need them.

OK, it has was somewhere around 1982 when we did this, but I used to have a friend that lived in El Paso. My family went down there one time with a CJ-5 in tow. My friend and his dad took us out to a set of dunes that were only about 15-25 miles or so from the city. I remember that there was one large dune that had jeep tracks only about 2/3 of the way up. They told us that the big contest of the park was to try to climb that hill, and that almost no one had. I could not get my dad to try it. Anyway, they told up that the place was part of the White Sands Range that was not in an impact area and was open to the public. I have no idea how things stand today, but it was quite the place back then.

I would back off the 8 nuts that hold the cylinders to the case before I put the head on again. Put the head back on using new orings, and all your best tips and tricks. After you have torqued the head down, tighten the base studs back up. The other thing I would do is change torque wrenches. There could be a chance yours is out of spec (perhaps you forgot and stored it without backing it off) and you are not really getting the head tight. Good luck.

I was planning on going down two weeks before that, but now I think that I will hit it that weekend. First time back this year since Snake. Missed Sandfest because of work. Should be a good time. See you drunks on the sand.

260 does seem like it might be a bit fat if you have a stock filter. However, if you have an aftermarket filter, it might be right. I would never tell you to lean out without looking at the plugs. As for the float bowls, if you look down into the passageway on the back of each one, there should be a small brass jet in one of them. That is the choke jet and should go on the left carb.

I agree with boonman, the gear can be a real bi*ch to get on a Wisco crank. However, you do have some options. The cheap option would be to put some heat to the primary gear and try to work it off with a couple of screw drivers. The "right" way to do it would be to use a bearing splitter to clamp behind the gear and pull it off with a puller and rod setup. You could take the crank into a local shop and have them pull the gear off if you do not want to buy the right setup. The other thing that you COULD do is use a press and push the gear on the rest of the way. That would be the last thing I would do, but you could. Good Luck.

bump

Kind of a long story but I put a set of WSM pistons in my shee when it was cut to 10 over (you can't seem to get a 10 over Wisco Kit). Anyway, at the time they were using snap rings instead of circlips. I lost one on my left sid on my second time out. I called WSM and they said to send them the cylinders and they would make it right. Well, as I was only at 10 over I expected them to sleeve the messed up side, but instead when I got my stuff back they were cut to 40 over with a new set of those exact pistons you are looking at. Anyway, when I finally got around to using this top end (about a year later) I started measuring it prior to final assy only to find that they had cut the cylinders to .006 clearance on one and .0045 on the other. To make a long story short, I ended up buying a set of 50 over Wisco and cutting the cylinders again. As far as I am concerned, WSM cost me 4 bores and a lot of time. Make what you want from this info, and if you are intersted, I have a brand new set of 40 over WSMs for sale. :-)

Wow, No one out there has ever ran a single PJ carb?

On one bike I had to modify the AmpLink, and on two bikes I did not. As for how long the rollers last, I never got a full year out of a set, but I do ride in the sand almost every weekend. Is the noise bad, I think not. It never bothered me. All in all, I have to say that I really love the AmpLink, and I think that it does everything that it is supposed to do. If I could afford the $100 rebuild every 8 to 10 months, I would run one on every bike I manage. To me the AmpLink is like many other performance parts out there. If you can afford it, and if you ride hard enough to justify the performance need, get one. Failing one of those two reasons, run the best stuff you can justify and be happy.

OK Guys, sredish, The reeds were just out of the bike. They are new Boysons on ported cages. SDD, There are no TORS components still on the bike. None at all. Ben, The idle is adjusted on the PJ carb by turning the choke knob. Having taken the carb apart several times, it looks to me like all the idle speed is really adjusted by simply opening or closing the choke circut. I have used compressed air to check the idle circut a couple of times so I am pretty sure that it is open. The top end is fresh (2 hours on it) and has good compression. Anyway, the real problem is that I think that I am lifting the slide far enough that the bike is running off the main jet circut when idling. As a result, movement of the air screw or changing the pilot seem to have no effect on bottom end performance. Anyone out there got a PJ? Do you have to hold up the slide to get it to idle? Thanks for the help guys!!!! Ben - I will have comments on the FAQ ready pretty soon:-)

I have had them on a couple of bikes and think they do exactly what they are said to do. The only problem I have ever had with them is that I do not get the life out of the rollers that I think I should, and the cost of rebuilding them is much too high. As a result, I have always ended up taking them off. I would love to run them, but I just can't afford them.

Hey Guys, I am running a single 35mm PJ on my bike, using a CV intake. Anyway, after having taken the carb apart several times, and even changing to another carb, I can not get the bike to run on the idle circut. I have tried 38, 48, and 54 pilots as well as everything else I can think of. I have to tighten the cable enough to lift the slide about 1/8 inch to get the bike to idle. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks for the help.

The answer to your question is no. Other than doing good wrench work there are no sqecific parts that need to be replaced just because the cases are apart.

BUY IT, as any running banshee is well worth 1500. However if you do not want it, let me know, as I will buy it. Thanks.

Ok guys, spent the day tring to get one of three worn out combines ready for a 5000 acre wheat harvest. Man I hate working on junk when I could be working on my shee. Anyway, it got more than a little drunk out tonight so I only have a couple things to add. First off, don't listen to Ben, I mean DO listen to Ben, just not about me. He has a much better understanding of all things electrical than I do, I just hope that I can add a little something to the board every now and then. Anyway, Meat, the following are the points I wanted to make tonight. 1) Your Sears meter does have a continuity setting. You simply need to change the function setting while the dial is set to the resistance setting. 2) The 4 plugins that are left on the harness will most likly be the 2 for the TORS carb tops, the one for the throttle position switch, and the one to the TORS controller. All of these can be removed without a problem. 3) As for why the new on/off switch fixed the problem, it can only be because whatever setup you had previous caused the black/white wire to be grounded. If you are sure that is not the case, then I would keep looking for the real problem, as you have not solved it. 4) Finally, good plan on removing only one plugin at a time. Just like when you are working on a jetting problem, you only want to change one thing at a time. Good luck, have fun.

Meat, A quick lesson in testing for continuity. The first thing you need to do is set your meter to test for continuity. If you do not have the paper work that tells you how to do this, then simply try each setting on the meter until you can touch the two probes together and have the meter peg out (if it is analog) or change reading from infinity to zero (if it is digital). The next thing is to understand what we are testing for. We want to see if a wire is able to carry current from one end to the other without resistance. This ability is called continuity. So what we want to do is check to ensure that each of the 4 wires that run from the stator to the cdi can carry current ie.. have continuity. Once the meter is set properly place one probe on one end of a wire color and the other probe on the other end of that same wire. Your meter should now give you the same reading as it does when you touch the probes together. You can use the same setting on your meter to check the resistance of the stator and the coil. With nothing more than a good meter set properly you can check every major elec component on a banshee except the CDI. If you need more help email me at [email protected] and I will get you my phone number and we can talk.

You can change the seal without splitting the cases, but you will need to pull the side cover off so that you can remove the clutch pressure plate and pull the rod an ball.

Considering everything that was in the pipes and the lower end I would not worry about the excessive smoke until I had ran the bike for quite a while to allow it to burn out.

Only thing I would add to this topic is that you should torque the head PRIOR to tightning the cylinder base bolts. This allows the cylinders to pull up to the head get a nice flat contact patch.

There are no 10 over kits currently on ebay. Anyone else got an idea?