Blacksmith

Unless all you want to do is drag race, I would go with new front shocks after the pipes. I also agree with the CPIs.

While I am sure that there are those out there who would not agree, I feel that any time you can see your rings, you should replace them. $50 buck is cheap insurance as far as I am conserned. You have a fresh port job, so I am pretty sure that the cylinders need to be honed. As those rings have seated once, I would never try to get them to do it again. Change them.

The tires that I like the best are the stock Dunlops that come on the Raptor. They are a much better tire that the stock Shee one. You can pick them up cheap off of e-bay. A good solid lug tire with a really open pattern. They hook up really well as far as forward bite. As they are a flat profile tire, they will slide very consistant, but they do lack a little as far as side bite.

Trace the wires from that switch down to the plug in to the harness. If you unplug the switch at that plug in you should be good to go.

I run the 2000 at 50 to 1 in 5 bikes from a bone stock, to a full stage IV bike with no oil related problems at all. My group has almost stopped buying new spark plugs and our oil cost has dropped a bunch from Clotz or Yamalube. Amsoil it the best change I have made in thest bikes yet. As for how I mix it, 13 oz in a 5 gal jug of gas. I don't even use a mix-rite any more, I just use the marks on the side of the quart. As for price, I am paying about $70 a case. Try it, and I think you will like it. Good luck.

It's really simple. Bleed your brakes by whatever method you want until you feel you have been at it twice as long as it should take. At that point, you have been at is half as long as it will take. Just keep at it. :-)

Guys, I have a Pro-Design adaptor in my air box for the uni filter. What I need to know is where can I find a replacement filter. I would like to have a second one for multi-day trips. All I can find are filter and adaptor kits. Thanks for the help.

Your axle nuts are loose. This is not normal and they should be tightned. It takes a couple of 2" wrenchs or large adjustable wrenchs to do it correctly The movement could be in your ball joints, bushings, or your front wheel bearings. Check again and see which is moving. If the bike was not hot, I would guess that you have a head gasket leak. Do a cooling system pressure test on the bike and see what it holds. However, if you do not have a temperature guage installed, I would bet that the bike was getting hot. GS 80 is really good oil. I have used it before and would again if I needed to. However, of all the oils that I have used, AmsOil 4Stroke works the best for me. I get great clutch performance and love the way the bike shifts. Again, this is just opinion. Good luck on your repairs.

Thanks guys, The tire is on it's way to get fixed. Saved me about $50.

00Banshee, Where you at in Kansas, and where do you ride sand at?

Thanks for the info Ben, I will check it out. All the tire needs is some new paddles, I did not know that they could be replaced. Anyone know how to contact them?

Anyone out there got a single 10x10x20 Scat-Trac Hauler 8 paddle tire. I have wiped one out and can't seem to find anyone who will send me a single. It seems that anyone who does sell then only has sets and the only single tires I can find are Taller Haulers. Thanks. Blacksmith@direcway.com

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I think that the NOSS Super Cool is the best on the market. JMHO

When I looked into it, I could not find anyone that did any work on the stock shocks. Anyway, I went with works triple rates with rezzys. I ride trails and dunes, and am not a jumper. I found that my trail riding got MUCH faster, and I can ride a lot longer with these shocks. I have been told that the diff between Works and the other makes is much the same as the diff between stock and Works. However, what I have now is so much better than what I had, that I don't even care. My advice to you, with the type of riding you do, go with the Works.

I would guess then from the replies that no one on here runs a stabalizer on a dune bike?

What kind of head do you have?

Guys I need some advice, First of all, I am not 15 with a 35 year old father. I am 37 and my dad is 58. We ride dunes and sand trails at least once a week for several hours. He has an 02 shee with alba porting, T5 pipes, 35mm carbs, +2+1 a-arms, Noss head with 17cc domes, and Works Shocks. His bike is by far the fastest and most ridable in our group. Even considering who I am talking to, his bike is fast, and he rides it like he stole it. Dad keeps up with our group really well early in the day, but as the sand gets rough, he starts to wear out. The problem is mostly upper body fatigue with sore and tired arms. What I am wondering is if a steering stabilizer would help? I know that most people on here think the Denton is the best buy, and I think I agree. What I am wondering is if anyone has used one while riding sand, and if they think one would help Dad stay on the sand longer. Thanks in advance for the help on this guys, as well as any other ideas you might have. I really like to have Dad out there on the sand kicking my ass, not setting in the parking lot worried that fatigue will cause him to make a mistake at speed and get hurt. Sorry for the book, but this is VERY important to me.

Motion Pro mades a kit that will fit a Banshee. I think that you can even get different types depending on how much turn you want. www.MotionPro.com

There should be a half moon cut in the shift shaft. If you put a new bolt in the shifter lever and it "turned strait down" then I doubt that it was all the way on the shaft. The bolt should have slotted into that cut and stopped the lever from going that far. Like was mentioned before, make sure you check to see if the splines are bad on the shifter lever or the shift shaft. If there is any doubt, remember that the shaft is steel, where as the lever is not. As for removing the shift shaft, remove the shifter lever and tip the bike on its left side. Remove a small amount of water from the Rad, about a quart or so. Pull the right side motor or "clutch" cover off. Pull off the clutch basket and lift the shift lever strait out the top. You will lose only a small amount of oil out the left side of that shift shaft passage. Drop in a new one, check the adjustment, and reinstall the clutch. Button everything back up, and put your water back in. You are done. Good Luck.

The first thing I would do is try 6 stiff springs. If it still slips, then it is time for new clutch.

Before you do any wrench work, do the following: 1) Take out both plugs 2) Remove, clean, oil, reinstall your air filter 3) Install compression tester in one side 4) While holding the throttle wide open, kick the bike over 20-25 times 5) Repeat with guage in the other side. 6) Repost your compression numbers If you are still down around 50 lbs, your guage is prolly trash. At 50psi of compression, there is almost no way you could get the bike started. As for your jetting, with your mods, I would think you are one size large on your pilot, and a couple sizes large on the mains. However, ever bike is diff, and that could well be the jets your bike likes, but with the way you say your plugs look, I would say your are rich across the whole range. Good luck.

Sounds to me like a blown shock. Unless you have the bucks for a new one or a rebuild I would get a used one from James Crowder in Mississippi. I got one from him a couple of weeks ago, and I love it. If you are interested, email me and I will get you his number. blacksmith@direcway.com

Guys, I am mostly only interested in a full trade, my arms and shocks for a set of triple rates and stock arms plus $75. However I will consider trading for the following: 1) Stock arms + $550(the price of a new set of triple rates) 2) Sell outright for $700 cash Thanks for the interest.

Look into AmsOil's 4 stroke motor oil. It is a high quality synthetic oil that is designed for wet clutches. It gives you the best of all worlds.