Blacksmith

Guys, I just got my hands on a Trinity 2to1 carb setup with a 35mm Keihin carb. I am wondering where to start out with my jetting. I tried to ask Trinity, but when they did not ask about elevation or mods, I know they did not care about giving me any good info. Anyway, I am running a mostly stock motor. Shaved head, Boyson two stage reeds on stock cages, FMF pipes, PD Foam filter on a proflow and not air box lid. I am currently running stock size carbs with 27.5 pilots and 280 mains. My elevation is 3000 feet, and I have about 140 lbs of compression. Anyone got any ideas where I should start with this new setup. I would really like to get it to work without spending $50 on jets. Thanks.

Do you still have the TORS or the parking brake on the bike. In most cases where a bike will idle but will not rev up at all, it is a TORS or parking brake problem. Make sure that the parking brake is all the way off, and unplug the small black box under the left side of the tank and see if this helps.

While I hate to disagree with what anyone posts, I have to say that I don't think you really want to connect the two wires that run to the parking brake lever. If you use a meter you will see that this circut is open when the lever is not pulled back. Closing the circut will make the bike think that the lever has been pulled.

First of all, I am not sure what you have done to you bike that will require $300 worth of bolts and nuts to fix it. However, if you are looking for quality fasteners of any type or size try www.fastenal.com as they have pretty much anything you could ask for in common metric lengths and sizes. However, the front end on a banshee has a couple of bolts that are pretty specific to Yamaha. This is not to say that they can't be ordered from any other place, it is just that most of them will want you to buy 50 or 100. For those parts I would call James Crowder at "Your Banshee Connection". If you like send me an email and I will send you his number. [email protected]

I use 2R to break in my motors and then switch to Amsoil 50-1 Racing Oil. I love the way the motor looks when I tear down. My group now has 7 shees running this oil and we have not had any oil related problems. We also go through quite a bit fewer spark plugs and have less oil mess to clean up on our silencers. When you compare the price to that of any other synthetic oil I have found (use a per gallon of premix price) and combine that with the super performance of the oil, I don't think it can be beat. I will not be switching anytime soon. :-)

Simply remove the switch from the clutch lever assy, and then unplug it from the wiring harness. This will fix your problem

I say this problem in a buddy's bike a couple of weeks ago. We spent a lot of hours on this, tore everything on the bike down a couple of times. Turned out the problem was that the gap on the the pickup coil was too large. Didn't know the exact spec so I used the old match cover setting used on combines and the problem went away. Anyway, it is something to look at, more so as you say you changed these parts only 20 hours ago.

I think that this hole has something to do with the RZ motor. I know what you are talking about, but I would need to go look at my bike to tell you exactly how mine is sealed. I think that it has a pipe type plug, but it could be sealed with a freeze plug. Anyway, the hole is minor, check out the shift shaft adjustment and if it is ok, then go ahead and get those cases split. Good Luck.

I have a set of spindles and some boot that I would trade for a cool head with 19cc domes.

Hey Guys, I have a set of American Star +2 +1 front a-arms with Works dual rate shocks(180-190 lbs) that I would like to trade for a set of stock arms, Works trips with rezzys and a little boot. The arms and shocks are about 3 month old, and have been on the sand about 10-12 times. There is a little wear from running through tall grass, but that is it. They are really in perfect shape, as are the shocks. Now for what I want, I need a set of stock arms, in perfect shape with new or like new bushings. I also want a set of Works triple rate shocks with rezzys set up for 210-220 lbs. Guys, the parts that I have to trade are in perfect shape, and I am looking for the same. I gave a little extra for this bike to get it with these parts, and they just don't do the job for me. The trails that I ride in are very narrow, with lots of really sharp turns and the feel of a stock width bike with good shocks is just more what I am looking for. Anyway, thanks for looking and if you are interested please contact me at [email protected].

PB-Blaster, much better than anything else, including WD-40. It is sold at the world of wally and will get in there like nothing you have ever seen. Other than that follow boonman's ins to the letter and it will come out. Good luck.

That shaft and nut are designed such that the nut should strip out before you pull the threads on the shaft. Check and make sure that what you thing are bad threads on the shart are not in fact simply the old threads out of the nut. Those soft threads in the nut can be pulled off and making the shaft look stripped when it is not.

Having ran or ran with about everything out there, I would say you need to go with the Sand Stars in a 20x10x10 on a 9" wide wheel. The hook up is much better for most tires this size on a 9 over an 8. The Stars are a really good tire, with much the same hookup as a Sand Skate II, but it looks like they are going to wear much better. They are also quite a bit cheaper than anything else with their level of traction. As for the fronts, don't worry about it. Run what you have until you can afford to buy what you want. As far as I am concerned you want two sets of sand fronts anyway. A 22x8x10 set for drag and pure sand, and a 21x7x10 set for sand trail riding. If you are only going to have one set I would go with the 21x7x10s. As for air pressure, I change mine depending one the sand conditions. I range from 3 to 8 pounds. I try to run more air when the sand is wet. This drops your traction level down and makes the bike more fun to ride. However, if wet sand starts to get really rough, I will start to go back down to get a better ride.

One thing to think about is the fact that all of the compression charts out there are for a motor with no port work. If you bike has been ported at all, that is to say if the height of the exaust port has been raised, you compression will be lower that what is listed on the charts. I would guess that you were somewhat down on compression before the rebuild and that resulted in the fact that you did not see much of a change between the 17 and 19 domes. If the bike is running good, not going through any coolant, and not getting hot, I would doubt that you have a warped or leaking head. I think that you are OK with the parts you have in the bike, assuming that you have done some port work.

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Hey Guys, Having had the shock bushings a couple of stock clutch baskets wear out long before they developed groves from the clutch plates has lead me to the following questions. 1) Do people really replace the stock baskets because the bushings are worn out? 2) Do most of the baskets still have wear left in them? 3) Would it be worth it to you to have the stock basket repaired with top quality bushings? I have developed a method of replacing the bushings in the stock clutch basket. It looks to me like I might be able to offer this service to the general public for about $65. It might be a little less, depending on the bushing price I can get from the manufacturer. What I am wondering now is if anyone would be interested in this service at this price. Anyway, any replies to this idea. What do you guys thing? Thanks.