locogato11283

nope.

+4 timing is a good mod for anyone, provided youre willing to spend the extra money on better fuel. i wouldnt wanna take any risks tryin to run +4 on 87 octane. my 10mm motor has 170 lbs compression and +7 timing and i run straight 110 octane...

id start with 162 mains, and 48 pilots and work from there. its really common jetting in 33, 35 and 39 mm pwk carbs to run 42 to 48 pilot and 158 to 162 main jets. and yes, use the cel needle..

i agree...i cant see needing to go any bigger than a 280. but if you wanna be super safe start at 290, check the plugs and work from there..

42 to 48 is normal in 33, 35 and 39 mm pwk carbs. ive never run anything smaller than a 42 or bigger than a 48 on a stock stroke, 4mm or 10mm motor.. also, my main jet ranges have always run from 158 to 162 all year round in all these motors..

been runnin them in the 10mm cub for over a year now. i ride hard as fuck and never had an issue.

use this gearing chart to get it just where you want it..id say you need to get back to closer to 14/41.. Gearing Chart

i really hope you dont own a banshee. if you do, i think you should sell it and go buy some barbies or something...

10mm are a lot more money.. you have to have the cases trenched. the crank is about 900 bucks. you really need straight cuts to harness all that power.. so right there youre talkin about 800 more bucks easy. you HAVE to run a lockup. and if youre drag racing youlll need an override.. so theres another 600 or so.. theres quite a bit of price difference in the 4mm and 10mm..

ive had my 10mm cub for over a year now. its been reliable as fuck and runs hard..ive never had any issues with it. they are pretty expesive to build from scratch. what you gonna use it for? a 4mm cub really has plenty of power for most applications.. noss head 21 cc domes 39mm pwk vf3 straight cut gears 2-4 duneable override rocket pipes lockup

well i decided to go with a kenwood unit. the guy i always buy my stuff from and who does my installs recommended it. its a pretty sweet unit. and i just have to ground out the park wire to be able to watch it all the time..this thing has a lot of shit on it. and its touchscreen.. heres the link if anyone wants to check it out.. click here

i agree. i think the cubs are a waste of money for your application. cpi's are drag pipes. and 33 to 39 mm carbs would all work great on cubs..

yep. a duneable override is needed to get those things to shift fast, esp with a lockup. stock tranny just wont get it done. i agree about the pipes. if you wanted to run t5's why not save a bunch of money and get your stock cyls ported? get the right carbs and pipes and youll gain everywhere... with all due respect....cubs are NOT trail friendly...yes its ok cuz i said with all due respect..its in the geneva convention. :biggrin:

you just proved everyones point about them having no bottom end. if cubs had good bottom end there would be no reason to grab the clutch and blip the throttle.. with that being said, my brother had a good woods port by eric gorr a few years ago. you could be in damn near any gear and blip the throttle, with no clutch and it would go.. it had power like a 4 stroke on the bottom. cubs do not have that kind of power down low. when we dynoed that bike, the power came on right around 4000rpm.. you cant really compare cubs to that.

cubs arent known for their bottom end power. it will make more than stock but most of the power is built from 6000 rpm on up..

id say somewhere around 75 hp. i mean you have a pretty extensive mod list there.. you might even hit 80 with alky..

first off, id switch to klotz or some other type of oil. i run klotz at 40 or 50:1 with my gas. how did you determine the plugs are wet and black? did you do a wide open throttle plug test? or did you just stop riding, shit it off and pulled the plugs?

i dont think my spot is that big. thats pretty fuckin huge. my factory system has an in dash 6 disc changer. mine is kinda oval lookin, not a big square like that.. so the flip out ones are junk huh? makes sense..the more moving parts the more chance something can go wrong.

i always replace mine. i just cant justify not doing it and then having to rip it back apart later.

yea i figured there was a way around that fuckin nonsense. i wont install myself. i know a guy who owns a car/home audio and video store. my dads known him since high school so i get good deals and no install charges..im just tryin to get an idea of which head units i can stick a dvd in and watch them. i dont really wanna have to fuck with an external dvd player..im just tryin to see which ones can do this and which ones work well. if i have to use an external dvd player im scrappin the whole idea and just goin with a regular nice head unit...thanks for the input!

i run the trailtech big bar setup with x bars on all my bikes. its a nice setup..check out www.rockymountainatv.com

lookin to maybe get an aftermarket head unit for my 2005 cummins. was gonna just throw a cd head unit in, but then thought having a flip up LCD with dvd function might be kinda tight for the long trips. does anyone have one of these? can you watch it while driving down the road? i noticed a lot of them said you can only watch dvd's in park..well fuck that.. so i need some links, brands, prices and all that nonsense..

i def work too much..

better check the weather!!

im pretty sure the 4mm 65mm bore cub cylinders would be 392. so sounds like they are for a 4mm engine. im sure someone here will have the measurement of the height of the cylinder then you can measure yourself and know for sure.