locogato11283

oh my pleasure.

stock crank? if so, you can prolly buy one cheaper. i know when i had my 10mm crank rebuilt, it was damn near the price of a new one.. it essentially was, as they had to take it all apart and shit.

i just run mine downward. i didnt like all that crap mucking up my motor area.

first, unhook the clutch cable from the clutch arm. then, take out the bolt that holds the clutch arm bracket in place. its a 10mm bolt. then pull the clutch actuator out. use a flat blade screwdriver to pop the old seal out. replace with new seal. reassemble.

is the rear sprocket new? its bolted up tight?

well, i knew it didnt have a seal.. then again i also knew the cases didnt need to be split to install a new clutch ACTUATOR seal.

the chain must not be tight enough. also, did you make sure to get the front sprocket on snug with the retainer clip?

motherfucker, your topic is "clutch seal" and you referred to the clutch actuator as a "clutch shaft." now how the fuck am i supposed to know you were talking about the clutch actuator? maybe i thought you were talking about the SHAFT that the clutch sits on. and NO dumbass you dont need to split the cases for that.. you couldnt figure that out?!

its simple man. your chain is skipping teeth. it probably just needs to be tighter. if your chain was loose before, why didnt you just tighten it? i dont understand why you put a new sprocket on it just because it was loose. you have chain adjusters for that.

what the hell is a clutch shaft seal??

its jumping teeth on the sprocket. it either needs tightened or you need a new sprocket. check your carrier bearings. they may be worn out..

just make sure you got down to bare metal.

what exactly are you doing to them? and what tires?

sounds like you might need a 50 or 52.

did you change your pilots?? they need to be 27.5. stock is 25.. also, what do you mean you flipped the coil over? it has to be grounded to those tabs. if you put it on top of them, chances are the paint is keeping the coil from grounding. thats where i would start, because even with the wrong pilot jets in, it should still start.

i personally have sprockets from 14-17 and 40-44. i can make any combination of gearing ratios i want. i wouldnt have it any other way. primary drive sprockets from RMATV are cheap. grab you a few.

i really didnt understand much of what you just said. retype so we know what youre saying.

absolutely there will be a difference on pavement, but thats to be expected. dirt, sand and pavement all hook up very differently. if i were running mainly pavement, say to a riding spot or something, i might opt for 4 PSI instead of 2 or 3. i cant think of very many instances though where 6 PSI is needed. there have been times at hillclimbs that ive actually had to put some air back in the tires because it was so tacky, too much traction was a real possibility. as you play with tire PSI, gearing and tires more and more you start to gather info about what works and why..

the last set of knarlys i had lasted me 4 years on the hills, testing, etc.. i really wouldnt recommend running 1 PSI for trail applications. i would stick to 2-4 for that. i probably run the tires on my 450 at 3 or 4 when im out jackin around on it.

it absolutely will. i dont know why anyone would run 6 PSI in atv tires. the most i ever run in 3 in my 450 tires. the thing about the knarlys is that the lugs are stiffer than most other dirt tires. to get the max traction uncut, you gotta get the PSI way down in them. sandman, thats the same type of picture i have somewhere.. its a pic of my brother at a hillclimb shot by a photographer. the tire looks the same way. hes hard on the throttle and getting excellent traction.

nope. i run douglas .160 aluminum rims. ive run them as low as 1/2 PSI and never spun one.

in the "best hooking tire thread" RagunCajun had mentioned that his cut knarlys didnt hook for shit. i made the comment that they looked to have a lot of air in them. he replied back that he was runnin about 6 PSI in them.. so, i decided to go out and see what the difference is between 6 PSI and 1 PSI, which i run at my hillclimbs.. i started with 6 PSI in the tire with my 180 pound ass standing on top of it and then my 1 PSI tire. i set my 10 second timer to capture the results.. notice in the first picture at 6 PSI. it doesnt even look like there could be any weight on the tire. you can still see light under it. while the cut out row still allows the tire to drop down to get more bite from the next lug, the tire itself with not flex much if at all. youve got 2 rows of lugs touching and nothing in between. now notice the picture at 1 PSI. youve got 3 rows of lugs touching as well as 2 spaces in between. the more tire that is touching the ground, the more traction youre going to have. also, which cannot be shown by these pictures is the rotational force that your bike will have on the tires. i used to have a picture showing what the rotational force would do to a tire at 1 PSI. they will almost fold on themself. the low PSI combined with the rotation, makes the tire hook 10x harder than it would at 6 PSI. any questions? 6 PSI 1 PSI

hahahahaha. im sorrrryyyyyy :sad:

i run the v-force reeds.. they come in a nice shiny box.

fuck da asshole cops!!