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Easssssssy their boys. I don't think shes even legal!!! Not that it matters!!!! I will use my AKA name. Chris

I run Ohlins on both my shees. If you can afford it run the fuill comp/rebound/ preload versions. As far as quality they are both good. I bought a set of full adjustables from a builder her on sight and asked him the same question. He sells both brands and prefers the ohlins valving over Elka's. His opinoin is that Axis and Ohlins are the best you can buy. Chris

Here in NY I have seen new current model shees new $4500 buck. (ex. 2005 models in fall of 2005) $4699 seems high. CHris

There is absolutely no substitute for the banshee enthusiast then the HQ, period!! Chris

The Gold Series Pipes are the Pre Fatty's. They are from the late 80's early 90's. They are the same pipes as the fatty's Chris

For more info on NY go to nyriders.com. There are severel people who ride in the Syracuse area and there are alot of clubs in NY. expecially North of Syracuse. Most of upper Ny is sand and there are quite a few pits to ride in, but unfortunately they are not legal, but people still ride them. A common place to ride is tug hill. Mostly seasonal roads but some are more like wide trails. There is restaurants and gas on the trails and you can easliy put on a 100 miles a day. This area is kind of in the middle of knowwhere, north east of syracuse and attracts alot of ATV'rs. Chris

In regards to the RZ cases the only difference is the tac hole. The shift forks on the RZ have a roller ball on them instead of the fixted ball. If you have pics of the forks send them to me. I may be inteterested in purchasing them. Thanks Chris

The color scheme on the 06 SE is awesome. Gongrats and have fun modding her. Chris

Contact Shane at Wolf pack racing. He was selling top of the line Ohlin shocks for $725. Also Look at Quicksand arms. They are awesome. In November I will post some pics of my Ohlin/Quick sand Combo. The total bill was like $1325 with shipping and all. Chris

Try giving Shane at Wolfpack racing a call. I just bought a set of top of the line front Ohlins for $725, retail is over $1200. These are comp, rebound and preload adjustable, built to your liking, but there maybe none left so give him a call. Also bought an ohlins rear, comp (Hi, Low,) rebond and preload for $525. Chris

I only have about 2 weeks of riding left for the year then I am done till spring. I am going to the hill this weekend, if there is no snow like there has been the last 2 wknds, and then next weekend the drags in Boonville and then all done for the year. Keep me in mind for next year and we will get together. Chris

Thanks guys for the feedback. I tried some testing last week with 13-41 and the issue I have is that dumping the clutch in 2nd is fine it just wants to go to 3rd instaniously and if the timing is a tad bit off I loose RPMs and mayu have to double clutch. As far as I am concerned with 14-41 I can for sure still dump in 2nd gear and actually shoot out of the hole a bit further before hitting 3rd and at this point the motor is ready for 4th and 5th. As far as the RZ motor goes, it is amazing. The low end has all kinds of power without hitting powerband and when the powervalves open the Rocket pipes just make that motor sing. Definately impressed with the power of the RZ. It is by no means a mild motor in terms of power delivery as I have heard of in the past. Amazing. Chris

Guys, The Annual Cow Shit 500 is coming up and I need to find the right gearing for 500' grass drags. On my non RZ shee 2 through 6th gear at 14-41 gearing is great for 500'. For the RZ, everyday riding, I have tried 13-41 on the RZ and that seems good if I am using 2nd - 6th gear. But at this time I have 14-41 on her and if I stay with this I would be using 2nd - 5th. Question: would the 14-41 gearing be a more of a benefit due to the one less shift? or should I stick with 13-41? In comparison to my other shee. 6th gear on the shee is like 5th gear on the RZ. RZ approximate HP is 75, Suggestions are welcome. Thanks Chris

I live just north of utica and ride on tug hill at least twice a month. Sand pits and trails? Are you talking about the ones off of 81 in Adams Center? I used to ride the dunes and pits in Watson/Brantingham but there all shut down now. Chris

Send it out as locogato mentioned. Some popular ones are Patriot, FAST and Passion. Jeff at FAST did a crank for me and Dan at Patriot ported my RZ. Both are excellent to deal with and have good prices. What do you consider upstate NY. I live near Lowville.

Are you using the right tool to put the ring on? If so you may have a defective clip. Either way I would not put the clip on more than once. After that is is stretched and should be tossed. Chris

Heb I am running the stock needles, 5DP39, and they work fine. When you order needles from a Mikuni Distributor make sure they send them regular mail If not, the shipping charge will be more than the damn needles costs. I have a pro design system and same issue with the boots. If you plan on running an airbox in the future the fit up between the large carbs, will be a pain. If you run pods than no issues. Also with larger carbs you may have to bend the shift arm or get reed spacers. The sleeves I have make a big differences. Unfortunately to keep the costs down I bought 6 at $20.00 each instead of $40.00 each for 2. They are still alot cheaper then buying new intake boots every 6 months. Plus the 28 FS are great carbs and are relatively cheap. I have a new set coming in today and they only costed me $180.00 for the pair. For my application of riding they work really good and personally I feel as long as you are not strictly drag racing these carbs are the way to go! Chris

Congrats on your purchase of the 28s. They are awesome carbs that I use on my RZ shee and my other shee. The needle you have mentioned is not the original needle that comes with those carbs. If I recall the needle is a 5DP39. If you would like you can call any Mikuni dealer and they will tell you. Also I think you are going to rich on the pilot. Both my foll mod motors run a 20 pilot and they run rich. As far as the mains go. I run 280 with the FMF's on the shee and 340's with Rockets on the RZ. The ID on the 28 carb inlet flange is smaller than on the 26's. There are no smaller boots you can get. Back 10 years ago or so White brothers sold a sleeve that pressed over but no longer. Earier this year I went to a local machine shop and they made me 6 of them at about $20 a piece. They press right on and work great, no more slop and ripped boots. Also, I run a airbox and lid so the jetting above may vary from what you need to use Chris

How you guys fastening these to the rezzies? Do you just pry them on. Ideally I want to take them off when I wash the bike, and pushing the cans on constantly would scratch the hell out of them which defeates the purpose. Chris

Pop cans! Interesting. I thought of taking a neoprme bottle coozie and use that or take a can coozie and shape it and sew some velcro to it? Chris

All, I have some new shocks for the shee on order and I am looking for some sort of covers that protect the cans themselves. Has anyone seen or heard of anyone selling any. i am sure i can make some myslef but just checking anyway. Thanks Chris

Guys, Since I have always been a Ohlins fan I decided to give Shane a call and discuss this offer. For those of you who do not know Shane is a great guy to talk to. He spent a considerable amount of time last night discussing how Ohlins on a yearly basis clears out there inventory and offers great deals like mentioned here. As a result ,I am hoping to have these shocks on order tonight. This an awesome deal, $2000 + worth of shocks for a great price. Don't pass this up! Chris

The stinger tube is a bit more hard to bend then the pipe due to the thickness of the material. Other than this small issue the pipes fit very well on the RZ. I am not sure they might be a perfect fit on the shee.

Thanks for the info. I would rather not tweak the tie rod shaft since I just bought new Quicksand arms and shafts. Thanks Anyway. Chris

Allright guys, got the pipes on the rz and they fit fine to a point. In there current state when the front suspension bottoms the tie rod shaft just nicks the pipe. I have compensated with this by modfying the front hanger but when I try to put the stinger tube on the pipe and the tube no longer line up. I need to make up about .25" and the only way I think I can do this is to bend the pipe. I can eitther leave it on the bike and give it a good yank or take off the bike. Has anyone had expereince with this. Ideally I do not wish to chip the chrome so I am looking for any non crude way of doing this. Any suggestions? Thanks Chris