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Since I currently own a a RZ powered banshee I amy be able to shed some light. As mentioned above only the PTR's or the Rocket's will work unless you want to dent at least one of any other brand of pipe. I also agree the for plug changes PTR's are much easier. With the rockets it is very hard to get your hand in there to change the plugs unless you go from the front of the motor. If the pipes are hot you will need to wait a bit or you will most likely burn your hand. One perception that I have always disagreed with is that the RZ has a mellow powerband. Since I have only bulit one RZ shee my current experience is far from what most believe. The RZ motor just flat out flys right off idle to wide open. This is not a 4 stroke powerband by any stretch. Also, unless I missed this within the other posts, for the RZ conversion you will also need to make exhaust manifolds. The rz manifolds are bolt ons not one peice like on the shee. Chris

I am interested in learning more about this motor. Please send me a PM with your number and I will give you a call. Chris

As a current owner of both an RZ shee and a regular shee i agree that the RZ transmission smoother. On both bikes I run 14-41 sprockets and they are very similiar through most of the gears but the RZ is a bit higher. The biggest difference I see with the 14-41 gearing is from 5th to 6thu in the RZ. Once in 6th gear the RZ just want to go! Chris

One thing to also consider when choosing carbs is whether or not you would like to run the airbox. I used to run 34mm on the shee with an airbox and it was just too big of a pain with such a tight fit. Since then I have changed to 28mm and they fit and work great. For pipe selection you most likely want to focus on a bottom to mid pipe. The suggestion by Snopczynski is a good start. I run FMF's on mine and the bike works well for all types of riding. Chris

The 28MM TM flatslides are great carbs. You should have excellent low end and great pull through the RPM range. I run pretty close the same set up you are running except for I use the airbox. On my: Shee I run 20 pilots and 300 mains with FMF's RZshee I run 20 pilots, a different needle jet, and 340 mains with Rockets. Maintain your jetting checks and see what works best. Chris

I thought the same thing with the newer brake lines. However, with the caliper on the quad the input for the line actually attaches differently than on the new calipers. As a result when I bolt an 06 brake line to a 89 caliper, the line either points straight up or down. the line does not point towards the rear of the front wheels like on my 06 shee. Also, the lines on the old calipers actually screw onto the caliper. They didn't use banjo bolts for the front calipers in 1989. Chris

All, I have been trying to identify a company that makes stainless steel brake line for my 89 shee. I have done a search on Google and due to the calipers being different on 89's in comparison to the 90 to 06 versions I am not having much luck. Does anyone have any ideas on who may be able to help? I would prefer only 1 line coming off my master cylinder if possible. Thanks for your time. Chris

The snowmobile trails on Tug Hill are mostly seasonal roads. Of these seasonal roads a select few are open for ATV use which allows you to get from one side of the hill to the other. In the past most of tug hill was open for ATV use and even though certain trails are open people still basically ride where they used to with little hassle. The only problem you run into is if you are on state land and you run into the DEC. They can go either way. Most of the time the law only stops you to check for registration and insurance. I usually am up on the hill almost every Saturday from May through October and If I see an officer a year that is alot. It is a nice place to go if you want to put a lot of miles on. Once you are used to it the trails/roads may get a bit boring but that totally changes if you ride at night. No one anywheres and high speed riding at night is just awesome. Chris

There are actually all kinds of riding areas in upstate NY. Most of them that I am aware of are just a tad south of Potsdam. If you want high speed riding Tug hill is the place. If you want nice trails try Harrisville, Croghan,and other ares towards Copenhagen and Oswego. The clubs have been working there tails off to keep spots open and have been making great progress. They are in the process of opening up some important trails to link several of the counties. Lewis, Oswego and Jefferson counties have all kinds of places to ride and and hopefully in the near future they will all be connected. There are Poker Runs about once a month in the summer on the Hill and of course they have the SNIRT run in April. This is the biggest poker runs which attracts approximately 1500 people every year. NY is finally realizing the importance of ATV's which brings millions of $ into our up state area. It should only get better. Chris

I am in the market for a new clutch perch assembly and took an interest to this post. After looking through the latest Rocky Mountain catalog I was looking at the MSR Pro-Raptor clutch assy as mentioned above do to its simplicity and adjustment factors. However, the catalog says for "motorcycle use" only which makes no sense to me. Does anyone know the rational for stating that the assy is for mortorcycles only? Thanks Chris

I would recommend trying to find a used RZ harness that has all the connectors. Doing so will allow you to use 80% of the stock connectors for the Rectifier, PC Control motor and CDI box. I mounted all of these in the rear of the bike and it is well hidden. The mod isn't that bad and it all depend how neet you want the appearance. I recall there being a post on here called "banshee gods" that should give you the whole schematic. If you need pics I will get you some. With the RZ it is very important to have the powervalves working. If they are stationed in an open position you will have horrble low end Chris

Gearsaver is great stuff. I used to use 80w but I now use 75w. Been running it for 10 + years with no issues. Chris

I recall that Mikuni only makes one slide for the TM28 carb (2.5 cut away). However, their may be other companies that make aftermarket slides but I am not sure. Chris

These carbs are a great addition to any shee. Both my modded shees (rz shee /banshee) have these carbs and they work well everywhere. For both I run a 20 pilot jet. The air screw on these carbs make a huge difference in low end performance, so you will have to work with them. I run stock needles and run a p-4 needle jet on the RZ and a p-8 (stock 28 needle jet) on the shee. The rz runs a 340 main and the shee runs a 300 main. chris

Thanks for the offer. A pic would be great. Chris

I am making a set of skid plates for my Quicksand arms. I am looking for the names of the manufactureres who fasten these plates with the hook style fastners. If anyone can recommend a manufacturer that uses these style of hooks please let me know. Thanks Chris

I am not sure that Mikuni makes at 28mm fS Tmx. I have many years with these carbs and some things that I have learned. The 28 FS Mikuni have a smaller OD on the input flange than the stock 26's. As a result when you tighten up your intake manifold clamp you will need to tighten a tad more, This will put xtra strain on the boot so you need to watch for cracks. You can go to a machine shop to have a sleeve made to press on and it works great. The 28 FS will work with no problem with the airbox. A FS carb has a stronger signal than a normal round side. From my experience they run leaner on the pilot jet side but much richer on the main jet side. For pilot jets, I run a 17.5 and 20 and 300, 340 mains on my full mod shee and RZ shee. The 28's are also reasonably priced. You can get a new set for about $220.00, don't get screwed by paying alot more. You will also need to contact motion pro or a dealer for the right cable. Motion pro makes a specific cable for this set up. Chris

Can you post or PM me a PIC? Thanks Chris

I guess it does make sense to put it back on. I guess i will drill and tap to a M6x1 and go. Chris

yup that is it. Man! I have a hard time believing that the plate is necessary. There is that little notch behind on the case that oil willdrip through onto the tranny shaft but it appears without it the shaft would get more oil. The plate seems like is acts as a shield. Is it worth to retap or not worry about it? Chris

Figure 8 would be correct if that is what i meant. lol. In my Yamaha manual it is on pagee 3-32 and comes right affter the section that discusses the assemblly of the cases. Chris

Thanks for the feedback. The plate that bolts from the top case to the lower case is called the Bearing Stop Plate. There is a thin plate above it that is part of the upper case only. The hole that is starting to strip is for this plate. It may be there for oil reasons but am not sure. I personally see no benefit of this plate but am just checking. If further clarificaiton is needed I will try to get some pics. Computer is slow so it will take a while. Thanks Chris

Well I messed up. There is such a thing as s a cam stopper plate and that is by the shift star. What I am looking at is the plate that is above the bearing stop plate that is behind the clutch basket. There are two small screw holes in the case and I have one that is stripping. I have no idea what the purpose of this plate is and I am just curious if this part is essential. Chris

In my attempt to torque the screws that hold the cam stopper plate i noticed that one of the holes is starting to strip. What is the purpose of the Cam stopper plate and do I really need to install it? I honestly don't understand what its purpose is. Thanks Chris

If you are interested in the RZ swop by all means try it. There are some past posts here on the HQ that discuss the wiring and there is also some schematics that some folks have provided. If you do a search and take your time the wiring is not difficult. Depending on your appearance preference the hardest part is where to mount all the components. I have an 06 Rzshee and an 89 shee with identical mods except for the pipes. I run 14-41 external gearing on both quads and am using the stock RZ transmission on the RZshee. The RZ shifts much smoother than the shee and is hard to get used to at first. You do not have that distinctive click when you hit the shifter. Even though the RZ is geared a tad higher it is hard to realize because the powervalves do offer some advantage on the bottom end. It is a tad better than my regular shee which has exceptional low end. I can ride either quad at any obsticel I through at them but wehre I really like the RZ is on the fire/seasonal roads. Since 90% of my riding is this so the taller gearing is great. The RZ just want sto go, more throttle the better. I have heard stories about powervalves help ease the power delivery and all I say is BS. My RZ hits sooner, harder and longer than my shee and just keeps pulling. The RZ has power everywhere and is a great all around motor, Powervalves down low and a stock drag port on top what else can you ask for. Best bang for the buck if you can find one. Chris