2stroker

Spider Tracs Not only are they an excellent mud tire, they kick ass in other types of terrain. They wear really good. But they're a liitle on the heavy side.

Dex Cool wont harm your Shee. But you're better off using somehing better. I used Dex Cool in my bike for a coule years with no ill effects. Only 'cause that was all I had at the time and I was too lazy to drive and get the good stuff. I now use Kool Aide and dont have any complaints. It is strictly a coolant. It doesn't provide any freeze protection. I can't tell for sure if the bike runs cooler since I've never measured the temperature. But since I've been using it, I no longer get the occassional wiff of antifreeze while riding slow trails on hot days. Probably 'cause it runs cooler and no longers spits out coolant.

Good info

Dont have any pics that show a really good picture of it. If you do a search in the Images forum, you'll find some pics of T3's cut and uncut.

1. I've been using only B8ES plugs. Although I've used BR8ES on occasion. Dont see a need for a resistor in the plug unless the Shee had a radio installed in it. I've NEVER fouled a plug. 2. Are you talking about the keyed switch or the handle bar switch? If its the handlebar switch, just take it apart and clean the contacts. After the contacts are clean make sure the contacts are actually touching when its switched to the off position. The same thing happened to me. I cleaned up the contacts and she works like new now. I did have to ever so slightly bend out one of the contacts. 3. You will NEVER get to 111 octane with any kind of XYZ brand octane booster. If you read the can, it'll say it will raise the octane 7-10 points. They mean TENTHS of a point. Most octane additives are made from 1 of three things: Xylene,Toulene, and MTBE. If you wanted to you, can buy a gallon of Xylene from a paint store for less than 10 bucks. Maybe someone with a chemistry background will chime in and give the proper ratio's to mix with gas. I've never used xylene myself, but I've heard of other people using it for their autos. Haven't heard of anybody using it in a 2-stroke. Again, maybe someone who knows chemistry will chime in.

The pipes are goin on a J arm bike. I'm gonna do a plug chop set up the way it is and go from there. Just wanted to make sure it was safe. If the stingers dont fit to my liking, you'll be gettin a PM. The pipes should arrive early this week. Elevation is usually at 1400 ft or higher. I normally ride on State Trust Land just east of Mesa or at the Four Peaks area. 370 mains? Wow thats sounds kinda big. But then again every bike is different even with the same mods. Plus you ride at sea level. I've already bought some larger jets just in case . Not for sale as of right now. But if they dont work, you'll be first in line.

Just want to make sure I understand. Did you raise the clip (lowering the needle)?Or did you raise the needle (lowering the clip). Either way it looks like I'm gonna try the 310's. Now I just need to wait til my pipes come in. I bought a used set from another member (MGD) and I'm waiting for delivery. I bought the expansion chambers only. The T3 stinger/silencers should fit the t5's right?

I'm currently using size 310 jets with T3's. Would I need to change jets if I switch over to T5's? I will do a plug chop after I make the change. I just wanted to know if it's safe to do the plug chop with the 310's or if I should move up one or two sizes. The motor is mostly stock with a Toomey 2:1 airfilter, timing advanced 4 degrees, lightened flywheel, Boyesen reeds, and Toomey needles.

I use a handlebar mount for my Garmin GPSIII made by a company called RAM. Never had issues with vibration causing it shut off. The RAM system is useful in that if you use your GPS for other toys (boat, other quad, etc.), you can easily transfer your GPS from one to the other. You do have to buy other accessories though. If you dont need to have your GPS is constant view, just put it in your Camelback or backpack. Depending on what model GPS you have, reception shouldn't be a problem. I never had a problem leaving it in there. It is somewhat of a hassle to stop if you want to check the screen.

You have a PM

Yup

SIG makes excellent firearms. Never fired a GSR before but I've fired many 1911 type pistols and currently own a SS Colt Gold Cup. Great ergonomics allows you to point the gun naturally without having to move your wrist into an unatural position. Quality 1911 type pistols are well known for their reliability. The GSR seems more of a competition type firearm than a duty pistol. While I own several pistols, my favorite is the SIG P229 chambered in .357 sig. While not compact, it's smaller than say a GSR or a 92FS, making it a perfect size for open carry. If you give much weight to ballistic numbers, the .357 sig has similar ballistics to the .357 magnum without the felt recoil. Before you decide, go to the range and shoot different types to see which "fits" you the best. Then after making the purchase, visit the range often and throw as much lead downrange as you can afford. Taking a tactical firearms course like one offered by Gunsite, located in Arizona is recommended. They're not cheap but its a good investment if you're in a line of work where good gun handling can mean life or death.

I sometimes have trouble finding neutral too. Rocking the bike back and forth a couple times just enough to move the wheels a little usually solves that problem.

You're not missing anything The Rekluse is not available for the Banshee at this time. I am considering getting one for another bike. Just looking for opinions.

Does anyone have one of these installed on any of your bikes. I've heard some good things about these and was looking for more information. Here's their link: Rekluse z-start clutch

Agreed

With the mods that you have at sea level, I'll say you're a little lean. Go up to at least a 320 and do a plug chop. Is your needle at the 2nd position from the blunt end? If so, mMove your clip to the 3rd or 4th position from the blunt end. The mods on my bike are kinda like your except I've got T3's, Boyesen reeds, and timimg at +4. I'm running 310 mains with stock pilots. Needle at 3rd clip. Doing a plug chop riding at 1600 ft yields a nice paper bag brown color.

Go Dubya Looks like the Kerry campaign flip flopped even in the very end. "We will not concede this election until every single vote is counted". An hour later before all the votes are counted, "I'm sorry to say but I concede this election".

If the chain has just some surface rust and the o-rings are still in good condition (not cracked and dry rotted), I think it's worth saving. One method I've tried is "cooking" the chain in gear oil. Sneak a pan from the kitchen, put your chain in it, and pour enough gear gear oil to cover the chain. Heat the oil to about 212 degrees. Dont heat it too much or else it'll damage the o-rings. Let it cook for about 5 minutes. During this time, whatever moisture trapped in the o-rings should evaporate. After cooking, let the oil cool with the chain still in it. Leaving the chain to sit in the oil during the cooling process is supposed to draw oil into the o-rings. After it's cool, hang the chain to let the excess oil drip from it. Wipe off the remaining oil and re-install. I'm not sure if it actually works the way it's supposed to, but the theory behind sorta makes sense. I guess Anyway it's worked for me. Besides, whadaya got to lose?

I run a pair of uncut T3's. They're all top end. The term lightswitch powerband is an understatement with these things. I'm lookin to get a pair of PTR mids. When I do, I'm gonna cut the T3's.

I dont think you need any sealant. At least I've never had a problem NOT using any. Just torque your screws to 7 ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern and you should be OK. Then check for leaks with carb spray like Troyminator said.

I've ridden the YFZ450 which is why it was my first choice. But, the $1500 difference in price is what swung me. I guess I'm justy a cheap bastard. The YFZ is definitely quicker. But it is also geared lower. The 450r has a really tall first gear. First mod is gonna be a 13t front sprocket. Second mod will be to put a Yamaha sticker on it . The forward kick of the kickstarter really blows. Feels like I'm gonna sprain my ankle each time I start it. Despite it's shortcomings, I satisfied overall. Besides, I still have my Shee

Haven't had the chance to really ride it yet. Up and down the street a few times is all the time I've had on it so far. It still needs to be broken in so I haven't hammered on it. It does feel strong though. Really good torque on the bottom and good midrange. When it's properly broke in, I'll see what it can do on the top. Ergonomics are way different fom the Shee. When riding the Shee, I feel as if I'm riding IN it more than ON it. With the 450R, I definitely feel like I'm riding ON it. But not in a bad way. I think I can grow to like this thing. BUT, I'm not sure if I'll ever get used to the way the front end looks. It almost looks like it's missing something. Maybe putting a Yamaha sticker will make it more purdy.

I hate to admit it, but I bought a Honda. I'm probably gonna get a bunch of crap, but before I do, let me make one thing clear, I am NOT getting rid of my Shee. I went to several stealerships to buy a YFZ450 but they didn't have any or they wouldn't budge at all on price. The last place I went to didn't have one but before I turned around and walked out, the salesman offered an 05 450R for $5499. That kinda got my attention. Next thing you know, I'm signing some paperwork and I'm driving home with the thing in the back of my truck. While I might be seen riding a Honda every now and then, I'm still a Yamaha man.

Dropped the needle 1 notch. The clip is now in the 3 position from the blunt end. I'm running Toomey needles. Its runs much better. Did a plug chop and the plugs had a nice paper bag brown color to them. I'm thinking of going up one size to 310 to see if it'll bog. If it doesn't, I'll leave them in. Thanks for the responses.