2stroker

Someone gave me a stock head from a 2000 Shee. It has the number Y-2 cast on it. I own an 88 Shee and the number on its head is Y-1. Is there a difference between the two heads? I'm guessing it might be some sort of date code, or maybe the factory where it was cast. My cylinders also have the numbers Y-1 cast on them. Can someone explain? Thanks.

Check out this site: It seems to have more up to date images. At least the places I've looked at.

I got rid of the factory airbox and use the Toomey 2:1 setup with a Uni filter and Outerwear. I'm very satisifed with it. I haven't used other setups so I cant compare. But I have no complaints. Jetting would depend on your pipes, elevation, temp, etc.

The 4l60E tranny is a decent tranny. However the trannies built for 96 and 97 did have issues with extremely harsh shifting. Felt like a shift kit on steroids when shifting from 1st to 2nd. The first time I felt it, I thought someone rear ended me. While I dont have a Tahoe, my 97 K1500 has the same engine/tranny combo. Apparently, the problem is caused by the TCC lock up solenoid that locks up the torque converter. The solenoid plunger will sometimes hang up due to an undersized orifice. When the computer sees this, it gets an error thats interpretted as a slip. Since the computer thinks the tranny is slipping, it tells the tranny to shift at full line pressure. The result is an extremely hard shift. This didn't happen all the time (in my case anyway). Just after extended periods of highway driving. The fix for this is relatively easy and any decent tranny shop should know of it. The fix is basically replacing the TCC solenoid and enlarging the orifice. Or, you can replace the valve body. Or, you could do what I did for almost a year. Turn off the engine at a stop light. This resets the computer. When its restarted the error is cleared and its back to normal. Another thing to do to avoid the hard shift is to start off in second gear. Like I said, I did this for almost a year until I got it fixed. My truck has part time towing duties whenever I take my boat to the lake. And yes, I had to replace the lower intake manifold gasket due to leaks.

Depends on what you want to do with it. Hunt, self defense, target, concealed carry, etc? Lot of things to take into consideration. Whatever you get, make sure you go to the range and get REAL familiar with it. Go to www.hk94.com and read through the forums. Lots of good useful information. As for myself, I have several handguns and rifles. My favorite pistol being the Sig P229 chambered in .357 Sig. This is the pistol I carry concealed. Its a toss up between the mini 14 and the MAK 90 for favorite rifle. Home defense duty goes to the Benelli M1 Super 90.

First bike was a late 70's Yamaha Enduro 100. Dont even know what year it was. Then I got a 78 RM250. Holy shit what a difference. Almost killed myself the first couple rides. Still have both bikes but they're rotting in my moms backyard. Decided one day to get a new bike. It was a toss up between a Honda pilot or the Shee. Went to the Honda stealership to buy the Pilot. Found out the price ($5999) and walked out. Drove down the street to the Yamaha dealer and bought a new 88 Shee for $2899. Still have it to this day. Since then I've bought a Zuki DR250 which I sold after a couple years. Also have an XR600R. The next quad is gonna be a 4stroke. But I'm gonna keep the Shee forever. It's been good to me. My daughter is riding around and learning on an old ATC90. For a 90cc 4 stroke. It moved pretty good

Your master cyclinder probably isn't bad. It was working before you installed the new lines right? Anyway, do what nater said. Master cyclinder? For you older guys, wasn't he a character in the old Felix the Cat cartoons?

Ditto what Holyman said. If you're gonna use an outerware, make sure to keep it from touching the pipes. You will need to rotate the filter just a little to get it centered.

Sandblasting the plugs will work but I'm not sure how it will affect performance. By sandblasting the plugs, the edge of the electrode tip will be rounded off a little. I was under the impression that the electrode edge should be sharp for the best spark. If I'm wrong, lemme know.

I've considered performing the repair myself. From what I can see, the job doesn't look very technical but, I've never done this type of work before. The only place it really needs repairing is in the open bow area and around the ski locker. I'm thinking of re-doing the seating setup so I'm just gonna have the whole floor replaced. The existing console seats are glassed into the floor. I'm still considering doing it myself. If so, Holyman gave a lot of good advice that I'd follow. But if it doesn't cost too much to have repaired, I'll go that route. Thanks for your input guys.

You should be able to beat him is he's stock. I have a 2002 Accord with the VTECH V6. From what I've read, it will do the 1/4 mile in the low to mid 15's topping out in the high 80's. Don't know for sure but methinks the V6 is only available with an auto tranny. At least the 4 door versions didn't have the 5 speed option. The 2003 and newer Accords are a totally different beast altogether. They have the updated Vtech V6 putting out around 240 HP with an available 6 speed. I'm guessing its probably a mid 14 sec. car topping out in the mid 90's. If your friend has one of the these, it'll be a close race. But with your mods, you should beat him.

I have a 1990 Searay 180 that needs a new floor. Assuming the stringers are in good shape, what type of cost should I expect to have this done. I plan on doing the carpet myself. Are there any recommended shops in the Phoenix area? Are there any shops I should avoid. Thanks for any suggestions.

'78 Suziki RM250. Way too much power for primitive its suspension. The term "lightswitch powerband" could very easily be applied to this bike. More so than the Banshee.

Sounds like a rebuild is in order. Never had a T3, but I had an RC10GT. I'll assume the trannies are probably very similar. Its thats the case, a rebuild will be really simple. Just a matter of replacing some bearings and maybe a gear or two depending on how bad it is. Parts will run you about $20 at the local hobby store.

Still have my old Losi JRXT I bought new back in 89. It can keep up with all the newer electric trucks at the track. I sold my RC10GT several months ago with the intention of buying a T-Maxx. Still looking for ways to fit it into the budget. However, over the last several weeks, I've been thinking about buying a road car instead. In particular, the Traxxas Tech-4 (60+ MPH stock) or the Schumacher Fusion (70+ MPH stock, 80+ MPH with a different spur gear).

Has anybody ever tried to re-inforced the factory J-arms? Would welding a tube that goes around the shock make the j-arm work like a d-arm? Dont see why it wouldn't work. There seems to be plenty of room.