2stroker

Absolutely!

Disconnect the TORS and see how it runs. Thats prolly the quickest way to find out if the TORS is the problem. As for a new top end, check the compression. If it's all stock, anything below 100 psi needs a top end. If you're between 100-115, you can probably get buy with new rings and a hone.

If you already have a Dial-a-jet I don't think you need to buy anymore jets. I thought the main pupose of having one was to have the ability to richen or lean the A/F mixture without the need to change jets. Unless the jet size you need is outside the range of the Dial-a-jet.

My name is 2stroker and I'm a Bansheeholic..... Feels much better to finally admit it and no longer live in denial.

BigRed, how'd you measure temperature? Do you have a guage installed or did you use an IR gun? I think your idea will work as long as you dont lose any flow through the system. Adding another heat exchanger will restrict the flow more than normal. This can result in higher temps if there is too much restriction. But it seems to be working based on your initial ride. An aftermarket impeller that flows better than the stock unit will complement your new mod. Good liuck.

Who needs electric start? The electric start topic has been raised before for the Banhsee and most people can do without it. Just one more thing that can go wrong. Dont need it. I've seen stock YFZ's lose to cammed and piped R's. I think Loco's riding ability is the reason he wins a lot of races.

I was in the market to buy a YFZ450 last year. Every place I went to either didn't have one or wouldn't budge on price. The last dealership I went to didn't have any YFZ's but offered a good price on an 05 450R. While I had my mind set on getting a YFZ I got the 450R instead. While it's slower than a YFZ, I don't have any complaints. It starts on the 1st or 2nd kick EVERYTIME just like my Shee. The forward kick took a little getting used to. But once you got the hang of it, it's no problem at all. The suspension is plush. At least thats how I have it set up with the stock adjustments. It has compression and rebound adjustmenst like the YFZ. It handles good and feels balanced when doing jumps. All in all its a well rounded machine. From what I understand, the YFZ is a better bike for the MX track out of the box. If your decision is based on which is faster get the YFZ. If you end up gettin a 450R I dont think you'll be disappointed. But whichever one you choose to buy, KEEP YOUR SHEE too. I might ride red every now and then, but I always bleed blue.

200 mains If you still have your airbox and a lid, 280 might be close. Starting at 300 wouldn't be a bad idea. Since you dont know how much was shaved off the head, a compression check should be done. You might need to run a 50/50 mix of race fuel and pump gas. Oh yeah. The sea level is about 600 ft. below you.

Same thing happened to mine before I did a top-end. One day Shee decided it needed more than just a couple kicks. It still started (without pouring gas in the cylinders) but took more kicks. Compression was at 105 psi in both cylinders. Did a top-end and she now starts 1st or 2nd kick every time. Remember, everything always works fine before it breaks or needs attention. You should check your compression just to be sure.

I made my own bracket for free by using a sheet of 16ga aluminum cut to size. I made two bends: one at the top for mounting to frame, and one at the bottom to hold the bottle. I re-used the rubber grommets from the airbox and put them in a couple holes I drilled at the bottom of the bracket. Bottle sits in the rubber grommets like in stock box. No problems so far.

I agree

Looks rich. Was that a new plug?

The throttle should've been pushed all the way in when you killed it, not after. Or am I misunderstanding you?

Thats what I'm talkin' 'bout I can't remember the last time I used a gauge to check my tires.

Same thing happened to mine. The metal stop on the frame bent forward. As a result, the "ears" on the steering stem no longer made contact with the stop. The only thing that limited movement was the inside of the rim making contact with the lower a-arm. I hammered the stop back straight but didn't weld it yet. It's holding up so far. But it should be welded. I've heard of incidents where the handle bars locked at full left or full right because of this. You definitely need to get it fixed.

I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. Having a vise on the workbench helps. I find it much easier to just cut 'em all off versus cutting just a section. Takes about a minute. Gives you a real good view of the ring. Whats about plug chops for 4-strokes, are they done the same way? If so, what type of ring would I be looking for?

To get a real good look, chop off all the threads. I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and go all the way around the threads. This allows you to remove the threads giving you a clear view of the base of the porcelain.

Finally got around to doing my plug chop with the T5's. New plug WOT in 6th for about 5 seconds. Looks like it might be a tad lean. But the weather is starting to warm up so I think I'll leave them in. What do you think?

If you're considering high temp paint, look into using high temp ceramic paint. I've never used it myself but it can handle higher temperatures than regular high temp paint. Most high temp paint in the can can go up to 1000*. Some ceramic paints can go up to 1500* (Duplicolor) - 2000* (VHT). Like I said, I've never tried it myself. But if the stuff printed on the can is accurate, it might be worth a shot. If it dont work, you're only out about $8 for a can.

I've got a couple hundred bucks to spend on the Shee. The VForce Delta's and the Noss head are roughly the same price. As it stands right now, I'm leaning towards the Noss head and 20cc domes. If you had to spend the money, which one would you get first?

If your bike is totally stock it probably has 200 or 210 for main jets. If you do most of your riding in the valley (Four Peaks, Sycamore Creek, etc), the elvation is usually around 1400 to 1500 feet. You're OK if you keep it totally stock. Make any changes to the intake or exhaust and your lookin at a jetting change.

I looked in the yellow pages under these subjects: oil, fuel, gasoloine, service stations. I found a long list of gas stations but none indicated whether or not they sold high octane gas. After some asking around I was told about a Mobil gas station that sold race gas at the pump. Drove to the gas station and found they sold 101 octane . In case anybody else wants to know, it's the Mobil gas station on Chandler and 44th st. If there are any others out there that sell race gas, lets hear it.

Is there a place in the Phoenix area (east valley preferably) that sells high octane gas at the pump? I'm planning on getting an aftermarket head to raise compression. The timing is already advanced +4 and I'm thinking of gettin 20cc or 21cc domes. The highest available octane I've ever seen at the pump is 91. I know I can buy race can in the can but if I can get it a the pump, thats what I prefer. I am open to using Avgas. Do I just pull up to the local airport with my gas can and they'd sell it to me?

Before riding it make sure it goes through a couple heat cycles. Fire her up and let it idle for about 15 minutes. Make sure you dont overheat. Let her cool down completely! Then repeat the process a couple more times. Take it easy for a bout a half tank varying the RPM's. After that, consider her broke in.

If you're lookin for sand, the it's already been covered. If you're looking for trails/desert riding there's a few I know of in the So Cal area. About 45 minutes north of LA is a place called Texas Canyon in the Santa Clarita area. Lots of trails with a couple of steep knarly hills. Take I5 north from LA to HWY 14 (a few miles before Magic Mtn) exit Sierra HWY.... If you continue on I5 past Magic Mtn, there's Hungry Valley/Gorman. It's a large area with tons of trails. Exit @ Hungry Valley Rd. or the next offramp at Gorman.... If you're looking for excellent desert riding (not dunes) there is a lot of riding outside the town of California City. Take HWY 14 north to Palmdale and continue to Mohave. Follow the signs to Cal City. Lots of good riding in Jawbone Canyon and Redrock Canyon. Haven't been to any of those places in over ten years since moving to Arizona so I dont know how it is now. The Hungry Valley area started charging people a couple bucks to use the place from I what remember. Dont know if they did away with that. Probably not. It does have toilets and picnic tables if you're looking for such things. Good 4x4 trails too.