2stroker

Lincster, your profile shows you're from Mesa, AZ. .Gold Canyon is just east of you and a little higher in elevation. I'm guessing around 1500'. I usually ride off of 4 Peaks Rd. near Saguaro Lake and is a little higher in elevation. Should I go up a size?

The manual says to raise the bike so that the rear suspension hangs. Then check play about halfway bewteen the front and rear sprockets. The chain on my bike is actually tighter when the rear suspension is hanging as opposed to me sitting on the bike.

B8ES

I"ve got the dual stage Power Reeds. I'll drop the needls one notch and go from there. Or maybe I'll try the choke method first and see it it improves or worsens. If it gets worse I'll at least know that it's not lean......... I think

Just rebuilt my top end. I did 4 heat cycles and took it for a cruise around the neighborhood and found it to be sluggish until it hits the top end, then it pulls like a beast. When cold the bike starts up with 1 or 2 kicks with the choke pulled half way out and idles fine. Prior to the rebuild the bike didn't have this problem. Aside from the new top end, the only difference is I replaced the stock reeds with Boyeson's and I installed a lightened flywheel. I thought for sure that the lightened flywheel would allow the motor to rev faster, but I'm getting the opposite effect. I'm sure it's due to jetting and not the flywheel. I remember reading a post a while back that mentioned Boyeson reeds needed a needle adjustment but I dont remember if you had to go up or down. Before I do the trial and error method, I though I'd ask the experts firsts . Here's a list of my mods: lightened flywheel +4 timing (modified stock plate) T3's Boyeson reeds Toomey 2:1 filter 300 main jets stock pilot jets TORS removed

If you're a cheap bastard like me, you can make your own hangers. I made some out of 16ga. aluminum. I cut two 1"x2" pieces, rounded the corners, and drilled the holes for the bolts. Works like a charm.

You should be alright. Seems like your motor never shut shut off. While they're a little finicky when it comes to tuning, 2-stroke motors are more durable than most people think. I once flooded/filled the motor in a Kawi 550 jetski. Towed it to shore, pulled the plugs, hit the starter, and water started pumping out the sparkplug holes. After all the water was out, the plugs were put back in and it fired up just as the battery was going dead. I sold it a year later and it was still running. I had a 31cc Ryobi 2 stroke weedwacker that got knocked into the pool and sank to the bottom. Same thing, plugs were removed, water was pumped out, and the thing started up. It sputtered for a while but ran fine afterwards. Still running after 2 years. You Shee should be alright. Just make sure there aint no water in the intake, filter, or airbox if its still on.

They ask that you drill holes only if there's an exhaust bridge. I think........ Thanks for all the replies.

I dug through the trash looking for the install instructions but couldn't find them. I vaguely remember it saying it didn't matter. But I want to make sure BEFORE I fired her up. Banshdog, if you find your paperwork let me know what it says.

I just installed a fresh set of Wiseco Prolites and got the motor put back together. I only now realized that I didn't pay attention to how the rings were installed on the piston. Can they be installed upside down? Or does it not matter?

I could be wrong but I thought higher octane fuels burns slower. This would allow you to advance the timing without detonation. Can someone clarify?

The oil is a little dark which makes me think its premix. I usually use 2-R to mix with the gas. The bike can sit for months at a time. During this time, whatever oil/fuel is left in the motor probably separates and the oil settles to the bottom and doesn't burn. Thanks for the replies. I can rest a little easier now. The carbs go on tomorrow after I install the TORS eliminator kit.

I bought set (3) of strap wrenches today at Sears for $19.99. Not sure if they were on sale but it seemed pretty reasonable. I say go buy one. This probably wont be the last time you remove your flywheel. One day you'll want Boonman to lighten it. Besides, you'd be able to use it for a bunch of other crap around the house or garage.

An impact wrench should NOT be used to tighten the flywheel nut. The Banshee Zone was probably referring to only the installation of the nut. I dont see problems using an impact wrench to take the nut off. Probably the easiest way and you wont need a strap wrench. Use a torque wrench and tighten to 58 ft/lbs. You will need a strap wrench during install.

I'm doing my first top end so I'm not sure what to expect. After pulling the jugs and removing the pistons, I looked into the case to inspect the crank. I noticed a little oil below the crank at the bottom of the case. There is maybe just a couple of tablespoons. Is this oil just some unburned premix that settled at the bottom? I use Mobil1 in the crankcase, and the stuff below the crank doesn't feel like its the same stuff. So is it normal to have a little premix in the crank area?

RZ500 motor: V4 2stroke, 80+ HP stock...... and the bike stays a Yamaha.

Tats4life, do you for sure if stock silencers work/fit? Would they limit performance thereby defeating the purpose of getting the PTR's in the first place? If the stock silencers work, that'd be awesome. More money for other mods! It'll make the bike a sleeper giving it a somewhat stock appearance.

My bike currently has T3's and I'm tired of the crappy bottom end power. I'm looking for a pipe that'll give me great bottom-end and great midrange without sacrificing too much on top. I've narrowed my choice to the PTR Mids. I want to buy just the pipes to save some $$. Will the PTR Mids bolt onto the T3 stingers? If the pipe diameters are the same at the outlet, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Unless the PTR's come out at a different angle. Doing this will save me a couple hundred bucks. Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. I"m thinking of cutting the T3's and using them strictly for when I go to the dunes.

Looks like you might have two problems. Needle valves: 1) Check float height, should be 20-22 mm 2) Check to see if there's debris keeping the rubber seal from sealing properly; check condition of the rubber seals, if it has deep grooves, it might be time for new ones 3) Could be sticking, a couple good sharp but light whacks with a screwdriver handle might free it up Petcock: Probably needs new o-ring. I've never rebuilt a Banshee petcock but I've rebuilt others. I'll assume the Banshee petcock is no different. Should be a 5 minute job.

Currently doing my first top end and wondering which gasket kit is recommended. I've heard lots of positive and some negative about Cometic gaskets. I haven't heards any negatives about the stuff from the stealership. If the OEM gaskets are only a couple bucks more, am I better off gettin them? Thanks.

Sorry dude, you're SOL. The Peoples Republic California has its own version of a ban that is more strict than the one that expired. Californians probably still wont be able to get standard capacity magazines (aka greater than 10 rounds). After far as I know, it's in the books for good. Unless of course you overthrow state government. Do it soon before they take away the rest of your guns and you wont have anything tp overthrow with. Start with Diane Feinstein. The ban that just expired was actually her bill. She urged Congress to make it nationwide.

The expiration of the ban doesn't make it any easier for the criminal to get their hand on a military style weapon. They were always able to buys these things. Pre-ban rifles were aplenty during the ban. So I dont see how its any easier. Like Rebel said, the only difference between the pre-ban and post-ban guns were purely cosmetic. They were mechanically identical. They fired the same ammo at the same rate of fire. As far has high capacity magazines, there were tons of those for sale during the ban as well.

Dont know about other automatics but a friend had a Polaris 400 Sport. 400cc, two-stroke, 2 wheel drive. It was just Ok in stock trim. Installing a pipe and a clutch kit really woke it up. Hitting the gas from a dead stop or slowly rolling would always bring up the front end. It isn't a twin but its still a 400cc 2 stroke. It hauled ass but but it handled like crap. Felt really top heavy, and the transmission design made you straddle the bike with your legs really wide apart. Dont think Polaris offers these anymore.

I am looking for a place to calibrate my torque wrench and not having any luck. Anybody know of a place in the Phoenix area? Preferably in the east side of town. It has been almost a year since I last used my torque wrench. I forgot to reset the torque setting back to zero before putting it away. I"ve heard that a torque wrench will lose calibration if not set back to zero when not being used. Its been at 70 in/lbs for the past year. Currently in the process of doing a top end and want to make sure nothing goes wrong.