boonman

Well, I believe there was somewhat of a breakthrough for ol' Boon last evening. Talking with the wife, she mentioned that she would like to go to Vegas with her mother in the spring. but, she said she didn't think we could afford it. So, I told her to go, and don't worry. I'll pick up the slack in the $$$ department. So, this means, she goes to Vegas, Boon goes to Dumont. However, another discovery, Being that I smoked the brand new motor in my S-10. Loose oil pump being the culprit, so I will have to pony up and rebuild that quick like, and work my balls off to support two vacations here. But it looks as though things may be a go for me. Also, Rod, I may be able to scrape up an extra pair of 20-10-10 8 paddle xtreme's for ya if you would like?

What kind of welding? I guess it really doesn't even matter. I use the same filler rod when TIG welding, and the same wire when MIG welding that I would use for mild steel.

Your crank may let go soon. And take out your new top end. Mine diid. I blew a hole in the piston, and cleaned the crank out the best I could. I put it back together, and the crank threw a lower rod bearing shotly thereafter. Good luck....

Whatever debris that caused the damage will likely be gone by now. The damage however, is already done. I am willing to bet that some if not all of it went through the crank bearings. Think of how many revolutions were made in that motor since this happened. i bet there has been no visible debris in the motor for a little bit. Once it does it's thing, it gets sucked out of the pipe....

Ahhhh. That explains it. It is for different "throw" on the shifter. Could be a useful thing to dial in the perfect shift....

It is a simple solution. Both things mentioned here are things I would check. The choke tube not being in place, (which is a 1/4" I.D. rubber tube that connects the carbs together) would cause the right side (PTO) cylinder to run extremely lean. The plug would look white in color. The slides not being in the correct carb would cause erratic engine behaviour, and generally poor running. The only other thing I can think of is an air leak somewhere like if one of the idle screws came out.

Chromium Molybdenum. 4130 is the industry standard. It is about the best bang for the buck when it comes to chromoly. 4140 and others have a higher carbon content which adds to the machinability of the metal and it is more hardenable.

WTF sort of jibberish is this???? This is the first tiime I have looked at that site, and I can say it will be the last.....

I found THIS While searching for some shit. Check it out!!!

Do a leakdown, and if it is the crank seal, (which I assume it is) or a head gasket, Give the bike to me, and I will fix it and ride it for you....

1-2 sizes up on the main.... What size carbs?

NICE!!!!!! I didn't even think about using that as some sort of brake!! You could perhaps put it in and maybe use it as a jake??? Or, throw it down the intake and see what it does??? Lol. I am defnitely interested in seeing what all it does. I am thinking that it applies some sort of reduction in which it would take more lever travel to make it shift as compared to stock, or it would make the lever travel less to make the same movement?

I have no doubt that the star was installed correctly, but is the shift LEVER adjusted right? It is on an eccentric bolt and it needs to be adjusted properly....

Whatever is within reach would suffice I'm sure. And if nothing is available, than bare hands may be necessary. SOmetimes, not as effective however...

www.blasterhq.com

www.moto-man.com And sorry Holyman. I wasn't aware that you didn't do roller bearings.... I got a complete set a long time ago off ebay, I don't remember who it was from though. Came with wheel bearings, swingarm, axle, steering stem and what not for like $40...

I used to get my top end sets from Moto-Man.com. Always had good luck. Never had a problem. 2 days later, I get my shit. Sucks that it happend to ya, but get the pistons before they bore it. They should be able to set everything properly.

Doesn't look like a Denton product to me. Looks like some backyard engineered some type of managerie.

You can replace the outers. But, if they are junk, than the others probably aren't far behind. You can send it to TDR and have it rebuilt, and they will true it and weld it after they get it rebuilt. It is the only way to fly for reliability.

Case debris in a two stroke doesn't get past the rings. It goes up to the combustion chamber through the transfer ports. It's not like a four stroke. In a two stroke, the tranny oil is in the tranny. The lower end of the motor itself has no oil. That is why you mix oil in the fuel. I am thinking that a lower rod bearing may be coming apart in your motor. Either that, or you inhaled some debris into the motor. But, this should show up on both cylinders. Are the skirts of the piston in good shape?? The shop you toook that motor to there Sandbuzzard should be shut down. The material in your tranny oil could have likely been clutch debris. It could be some of the teeth on the gears coming off as well. You need to pull that motor apart and have the crank inspected. Whenever there is debris and pitting on the piston and head, then whatever was in the combustion chamber was down into the crank as well. It has to go there no matter what. Unless a ring came off.......... Either way, please don't take the chance.....

The detent could be cut wrong on the star, but that is unlikely. It should go in smoothly. DOes it shift alright otherwise? Did you adjust the shift lever as per the instructions in the clymer?

You have cut an ignition wire. You need to find it, and hook it back up. Or, you cut the ignition wires going to the key switch and didn't re-connect them....

That would make them not chicks. And I hope I never encounter one. Because I would kill it...

I am thinking something is wromg. You should not be breaking them in the fashion that you are...

My insurance is about $80 a year.