boonman

The left carb, (the one with the choke knob) will have a float bowl with 2 brass tubes in it. One is the overflow tube, and the other is for the fuel enrichment circuit, (choke). If this bowl is not on this carb, than it will not draw fuel when the knob is pulled. Now, when you put the carbs back in, did you put the crossover tube back in? Not the balance tube, but the small black "hose" that connects between the carbs. It's about 1/4" I.D. and 3" long. This must be in place or the right side will run lean.; You said you went riding. This tells me you got it fired up. Does it idle? Does it run like you want it to. It sounds to me like the jets are clogged and/or the float bowls maybe switched. Also may want to check that the slides are in the proper carb. They can be switched. The cutout at the bottom of the slide needs to face the air cleaner. How do you clean the carbs. You said you "chacked everything out real good". What does real good mean to you? Just pulling the carb off, and shaking it around a little, blowing on it doesn't do a whole lot. You need to completely disassemble the carb, and clean it thoroughly. What is the compression on this motor? You stated it was "more than before". What is the reading? How did you check it? Old fuel? new fuel?

I don't know how that is possible Trav. I am not doubting you, I do however know that my findings are the exact opposite. Oddly enough. I have always found that diesels "freewheel" down the road a little longer than a gas engine... Vehicles I used were a '98 Chevy 454 truck, and a '01 Duramax. The diesel freewheeled and I had to use more foot brake to keep speed in check. So, I researched it. I have also been involved in pulling, and diesels for quite awhile. I do know a thing or two about them. Newer diesels are getting wayyyyyy better than compared to the older stuff for engine braking...

I have ordered from moto-man several times. NEVER had a problem. And if you do, they will help you out..

You have mail, and I will send you mine!!

I'm thinkin it is an unbalanced tire, or a bent wheel..

Popping the choke works because it unseals the vacuum. I really really think that that passage holds the key....

I have done EXACTLY what you ask. And I keep my opinion, AND fact as it stands.

That's why I'm thinkin that may have sometin' to do with it....

About $2500 to rent that Uhaul

I have done Multiple tests. I have driven fully loaded trucks. By fully loaded, I mean 15,000 lbs. on the trailer. With a STOCK, unmodified pickup, (like your stroker) the diesel will run away downhill. With a gasser, backing out of the throttle on the same grade will produce the braking effect. I am by noe means saying that a diesel engine won't slow down when you back out of the throttle, it just doesn't happen as well as a gas motor. With the same load behind my Ram with a 360, (15,000 pounds) I can slow the load with backing out of the throttle and/or downshifting. Downshifting in a diesel can be felt, but it will not be as good as a gas engine...

That is good to hear!!!!!!!!! People out to have a good time!!!!!

What about the passage that goes from the air cleaner side of the carb, and leads up to the slide bore? I am thinking that could have something to do with it. It is right at the level in the carb bore where the choke port is...

Try Ebay

Dura blue sucks. Get a lonestar. 'nuff said

Do you wanna take the chance? There is a way to tell, rip it down, and take care of it the proper way.... However, before the sand gets to the top of the piston, and into the cylinder, it first has to be drawn into the bottom of the case, so it can go through the transfers. So, yes, sand did get into the lower end. However, it may not have been into the bearings. However, it is not a chance that I myself would be wiling to take...

That is great!!!!!!!!!!

Want a roommate????

Oh, I thought you needed one or two. lol sorry

Trav, you are mistaken. Not in a diesel engine. Diesel engines, by their inherent design have an unrestricted air intake. Meaning, there is no butterfly, slide, or other device to close off the air intake. The engine can suck in as much air as it wants, no matter where your foot is in the throttle. When you back off the throttle on a diesel, you are just shutting the fuel flow off. Diesels are mechanically injected. The fuel is shot into the cylinder. Not sucked out by vacuum like a carburetor on a gasoline engine. Even on fuel injected cars, there is still a butterfly on the throttle body that shuts off air flow when you close the throttle. This wil not occur in a diesel engine, because even with your foot off the go pedal, the enngine can still suck in as much air as it wants because the air flow does not get shut off... Rod, the Banks site is FULL of information on alot of different things!!!! HERE is where I quoted 2 tthings from... Also, trav, Diesels are not as effective at engine braking as compared to a gas engine when unaided. I know that diesels do provide some engine braking stock, but not what is possible on a stock gasser.

I'm gonna go home now....

Measure the size, and go get one. Or, go to the dealer, and get one. They are cheap. There are however 2 different sizes on a shee cylinder head. The hole that is directly above the exhaust opening, is a slightly longer stud. It's part # is 95917-08640 and it is $1.94. The short stud, which goes into the rest of the openings is part #90116-08394 and it is $3.64 a piece. Go get ya a stock one. You will spend more time screwing around trying to cob the thing together than to just go get one from the stealer. Be realistic!!!!

Screw clipping the ears, box them shits man!!!! Anyways, from the factory, the orange wire is the + side.

Indeed Rod!!!! Been there and done it to. Went from .020" to .060" in a month. Not a happy camper at that point.

The compression ratio has nothing to do with the "engine braking" effect. Two strokes and four stroke bikes generally have around the same compression ratio's. The braking effect comes from the engine trying to pump air against a closed throttle. Ever monitor vacuum in a gasoline powered car when you close the throttle at high RPM? It goes up. THis is the braking effect. The only exception to this rule of thumb is a diesel engine. To provide some supplemental braking, typically drivers downshift to a lower gear, allowing the engine to exert some braking force as the engine attempts to intake air against a closed throttle. Of course, this only works for gasoline engine-powered vehicles that have air throttles. Drivers with diesel engines, which have unrestricted air intake, face a different problem. Diesels provide little engine braking unless they are fitted with either an internal or an external device that uses the pumping action of the engine to do work. In either case, such devices on diesel engines are intended to create a pumping resistance that results in engine braking. Diesels need an exhaust brake to create engine braking. This is directly attributed to the unrestricted intake. On a diesel, there is no butterfly, or slide, or anything of that nature. Fuel is either directly injected, or indirectly injected. Diesels can have in excess of 20:1 compression ratio. Yet, stock, they exhibit virtualy no engine braking. A banshee, or any two stroke motor has noticeably less engine braking because it compresses about half the air that a four stroke does when compared stroke length for stroke length. This is why a four stroke gasoline powered engine feels as though it has more engine braking than a two stroke.

Yes. Take the motor out. Pull the cylinders off, although they are prolly off already. Dump some kerosene down there, and swish it around. Dump it out. Do this 2-300 times. Use compressed air. Then, put it back together. Run it, and smoke the crank. Then split the cases, and get a new crank. Put it back together. All good to go... Your wayyyyyyyy better off to split the case and spend the $25 on gaskets and yamabond than to risk crank failure.