boonman

I suggest to you that you get the motor out, and take it on down to the local shop. Walk to the service department, (you may have to sneak past a few folks) and talk to a tech. Tell him you'll throw him $5 if he pops the flywheel off for you real quick. I have never had this fail in the past. Then, you pull up to the back door, bring the motor in, and they yank it off for you. $5 and 20 minutes. Can't beat it....

Alright, New guy, The reason I stated about WTF is the point of swapping into a shee chassis, wasn't about the motor at all. It was more directed at the fact that the shee chassis isn't a handler on the track, or XC. Now, something along a 250R chassis would be much better suited for this application. Wouldn't it? That's what I was driving at. Why waste the time, when there would be a much better option for it. Find a beat up 250R and grab it. Yank the motor, swap a 426 into it, get some suspension on it, and go ride. You would be much better off than pulling the shee apart and using that chassis. That's my suggestion to you Nax. Once and for all. Get a differetn bike. I have raced my bike on XC, and I don't anymore. It hammers me up too much. i don't feel like spending the money to properly set it up to run competitively. If you are serious, get a different chassis...

Over here!!! Over here!!!! I'll take one!!

Check the orange and black wires on the primary side of the coil. Now, go out and get a service manual. Either Clymer or Yamaha. Inside it will tell you step by step how to test the stator.....

This is something that you do not want to skimp out on the cost. It is the only way to determine the health of your shee motor without tearing it apart. Mine was well over $200. It is nice. See if you can borrow one from a mechanic friend. Then save up for one. Too often I see peps buy a cheap guage, and then later on down the road buy a new, better one. Start off on the right foot.

My bike did that Led, and it was the coil primary wires that were not on properly. (the orange and the black). Spitt and what not only at WOT. but yea, them 280's sound lean to me as well. Another problem I had once, with brand new reeds, was that I cracked one off. it was still hanging there, but not doing anything. The bike would run fine, but at WOT, it died. Fell on it's face.

"U" got it Stanley!!! And Jim, I would tap it to 7/16"-20. it should hold. if no, the only option I see to totally core it would be to cut that part of the frame off, and stick a bolt through the backside, (grade 8) and weld the head of the bolt to the backside of the metal. THis way, you would have a "stud" sticking out, that would be tougher than you would ever need, and should hold up. And you can spin it off to your hearts content, as many times as you like.

Well, You have to understand, that BS'ing about it is one thing, and asking the same thing, over and over and over and over again is another. Everyone here has told him about XC racing. And yet, he keeps coming here posting questions about I mean, really, if you are gonna go through all the trouble of swapping a 426 motor in, why would you put it in a banshee chassis??? Especially for XC racing. There are several options that would be much better suited. We have told him that numerous times. What does it take?? You gotta draw the line somewhere.......

You could do it. But, becoming a dealer can be a problem. Parts unlimited would sell to you, but the manufacturers could be a problem... It's harder than you think. You could start working on them though. Labor $$ is good.

How many times are you going to start racing XC?? Seriously, get the thing MX ported, with a +4mm stroker crank and ride the friggin thing. You try thinking too much. You must be the guy that gets all prepped at the race, get there with all the best shit, have someone twist wrenches for you, act like a pro, and come in dead last. Aren't ya? How many times have we told you what you need to do? And yet, you still pop in here from time to time, asking the same ridiculous questions. And I hope to high heaven that you didn't rip anyone off on here. That would be detrimental.

You have a wierd situation. But, you should not be running race fuel, not on the risk of crank seperation, but because you don't have to. Your motor will get greater performance by running the lowest octane that it can tolerate without detonation. at 140 PSI and 21 cc domes, you do not need it. ANyways, I would fear crank seperation on a stock shee. It does happen. What do you mean by the right cylinder having more play. What has more play? The piston? The upper rod bearing? What?

I would buy another shee and build a wicked dragger once you save up a bit more cash.....

Indeed it may be the recommended amount. However, if it hardens in one spot, than you have about 10 ounces at least on ONE side of the tire. Not a good thing..... Guaranteed that is the balancing problem.....

Than you have a bad needle and/or seat. If the float is set to the proper level, 21mm=.827" and it still leaks, your drains are not sealing, or the needle valve is not shutting off the fuel flow. That is the only two things that it could be. Unless your float(s) have filled up with fuel and do not "float" any longer...

O worry about myself first. if I'm injured badly, or worse yet, dead, I can't ride my shee. Machines can be replaced. Your like and health cannot...

What is the squish? Were the 19's cut custom at all? When you switch domes, any number of things can happen. Get ya some solder, check the squish. Have you pulled the head off? What do the pistons look like? With a coolhead, this isn't a hard task, and you don't even need new gaskets!!! The plugs and pistons should tell you if it is detonating. A tuned ear should be able to hear the ping, but sometimes it isn't possible to hear it. I am thinking along the line of detonation...

I am not sure about those stores. I do know that Ace will have one, as will the craftsman store....

Indeed. Aussie hit it. There is alot more than just bolt on, plug and play with an RZ conversion. You better be knowledgeable before you think of undertaking this project.

Not in 99% of the cases. However, with any mod, it is a good idea to check it all out. It gives you an excuse to check the health of your motor.

nuff said!!! Otherwise you will chew the ever loving piss out of the rings and just piss yourself off even more because the correct tool is cheap...

Depends what grade stainless. Stainless that I use is around the same PSI rating as about a grade 5 bolt. Most of the hardware on my truck is stainless. Unless it needed grade 8.....

Go to your controls, and select which tme zone you want to be in, and set the date for your COmputer....

Which wires did he splice together???? And did he get beaten?

atvseatcovers.com

Gutless POS. Friend of mine had an expedition on 35" rubber. Junk. Horrible mileage. Horrible power. Always in the shop. The exploder (explorer) has awesome power for a 6 cylinder, and I would recommend that before I would get an expedition. A diesel excursion is IMHO the best SUV out there. The do-all. I don't like anything IFS out there. Expeditions are notorious for failure. Look elsewhere.