Koolguyson

I am sure you know this, but price isn't the best factor when determining who builds your motors. If you were looking for cheap(er), I would have built a cast cylinder.

There are better companies out there that will sell you the tire you want for the best price possible. I would recommend Sand Toyz Unlimited.

Last one I shipped was 95 bucks and I put it in a rubbermaid container. Styrofoam on the bottom and cardboard on the sides.

Straight cut gears offer quiet a few advantages over a helical gear, but none of which are going to give you more horsepower. It will however eliminate the side load on your bearings. If you have a high horsepower motor that is eating transmissions, you can also get a taller primary ratio and it will help ease the strain on your trans

Fix it the right way by splitting the cases. You can't replace that shaft without putting the motor down.

Injection systems are only worth the amount you put into them The bulk of your budget is going to go into an ecu, harness, injectors, throttlebody, fuel rail, lines, fuel pump and fuel regulator, and in some cases an ignition. None of that will be cheap, and you'll still need a palmtop to program your fuel map. Then consider that no motor is going to be the same so you will need to schedule dyno time with a load cell dyno and somebody who knows what they are doing.

I have them in my carrier right now. They have only been in there for a few races. So far, so good.

I hate when people say "too much to list" when they are trying to sell a bike. If I am going to buy your sh*t, I want to know what I am buying.

The crank can move back and forth a couple mm if the crank is loose on the outter crank bearings.

Wings "sure" got screwed. They are up 2-0 right now.

The Quacks/Wings series is a bunch of crap. Wings should got screwed. This series should be 4-1.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the support.

I was referring to Robinson racing. My last sentence was directed at you, but I am game. Come find me. Not sure how I have been hiding. I just drove 70 hours and 4000 miles to be at the biggest race of the year.

Thanks. That guy is an Ahole, and he does NOT stand behind his product. For a little more information on the story. I even took Robinson's broken countershaft to a metallurgist (person who specifically studies material failures like steel) and he said the failure was due to an improper quench of the shaft when it was in heat treatment. Meaning when the shaft was brought to temperature during heat treatment, it was cooled too fast causing the material to become hard(er) and brittle. This is why everybody has a problem with you Ron. You aren't the bible and everything you say is not in fact the truth.

You don't hear me bitch very often. But when I do, I usually have a pretty valid reason.

By stock I mean the stock gears. Not everybody does the billet 2nd gear set.I was not referring to an override. The DM is just a much bigger cylinder.

You weigh a lot (no offense) so a bigger motor will suit you better. However, IMO a supercub is a waste of money when you are comparing dollars to CC's (and factoring your weight). It makes no sense to do a supercub when you still have to buy the cyls, crank, casework, special head, etc. when you can have a cheetah or a DM for the same price or even cheaper. I honestly think anything more than a 10mm on a cub or supercub is pointless as well because you are still using stock intakes. If I were you...I would do something like a 4-7mm DM which is about all I would trust a stock tranny for. A 4mm motor will cut your bill by 600 bucks pretty easily and still run with the best cubs. If you put a billet second gear set in it I would go a 10mm. If this is for drag racing, you can put a ton of power into a stock chassis. Last month at the PS race Rob had an 18mm DMX that went a 3.59 on a stock chassis. Pretty impressive.

Never have to replace shafts or gears again on a billet tranny? I have two broken shafts you can have, and a handful of bent and burnt shift forks because his transmissions burn a set of forks each race. The guy also won't stand behind any of his work. I mean...come on. When you tighten the sprocket nut down for the first time and the threads SNAP off the shaft (you read right. The threaded section of the shaft broke off)...something ain't right. Then the guy wouldn't even replace the shaft, nor would he even sell me a shaft! I really wish somebody else would step up and make a better product.

Yeah, Phil seemed to get into when his friends were into it. I was sad to see Johnny sell his stuff. I met up with Brett a few months back at a bakersfield race. It was good to see him again. They were all a pretty good group of guys. Dune racing just got too out of hand for most of us I think. I took a little over a year off and built a sand rail. I just recently got back into it, but more than likely I will sell my hill stuff and just stick to the track.

It happens. I can't remember what all was said, but I think you owe me a race??? lol Yeah I miss those guys. Last time I raced Phil I was kicking his ass on a 4mm cub in Dumont. haha

A DMX is not a spread bore.

Flukes are the best on the market, which is reflected by their price. I use a meter from home depot. It is an Ideal and has a lot of solid features and is within +/- .3% of my calibrated benchtop equipment.

Austin is a great guy. If there is anything at all you guys still need, please let me know. I would love to help out.

You didn't beat Dan at A&S, and you didn't beat Rob at RDZ. You beat their customers, which is nice and it feels good. A motor only runs as good as the guy tuning it though. Good job either way.

He never replied to my PM's either when I was looking for a basket a month or so back.