Koolguyson

You don't honestly believe that do you?

Maybe send your motor to a better builder and you won't need to mess with all this junk. Lol, k...that was mean...true, but mean. Also, inertia in a motor does benefit you some. What type of riding are you doing? I also doubt you will see any difference in vibration by going to a 485. A dual ring piston will wear less and seal better. Nothing about a single ring will help with longetivity.

I let him know you were looking for him. He'll get in touch with you when he gets home.

LOL I knew as soon as I read the first two sentences you were talking to TSS. No comment on the floating crank since I have never messed with one. But...if it ain't broke, why fix it? If our 200hp twins can get by with o-ringed crank bearings...I think you would be fine too. Side load really isn't an issue anyway when you have TZ bearings/straight cut gears.

It is just serious overkill for what is needed, plus coarse scotch brite fibers get all over the damned place. Makes a hell of a mess.

No no no. Way too extreme. Scrape the excess sealer off with a razor blade. Then take a regular old scotch brite pad and spray a little brake/contact cleaner on it, it will come right off.

Media blast, then some cast colored paint. Cases generally clean up pretty good in a solvent tank though. You can also take them to a machine shop and put it in the hot tank.

1-5's aren't full billets. They are a combination of stock and billet parts. I have seen a few explode so far. Heck of a deal, and would hold up great on a standard twin.

Whether you use a flat washer (which I don't recommend) or the conacal washer...use red loctite. I have had that nut come loose and fly through my side cover (and that was with loctite). It is never pretty...

Patriot, then Redline. I know Dan from Patriot is a pretty busy guy, but one of the most knowledgable guys in the industry.

You should be more specific on what type of riding you do. That more or less pays a huge role in what chain you buy. Same with horsepower. If you have a bike that is mostly stock...any reputable chain will be fine.

I used to have a picture on my phone. They are pretty trick looking. They run about 2500 bucks.

The only company that manufactures billet transmissions is Robinson. They make a full billet 1-4 (billet shafts, drum, gears) and a billet 1-5 which uses billet gears and stock shafts. Upper limit IMO is a true 140-150hp. My buddy has an 18mm DM and explodes a stock tranny with the billet 2nd set everytime he goes out. Matt Shearer had the same problem. It just isn't worth it IMO to skimp on.

A spread bore is 120mm center to center. A stock case is 102mm. If you build a spread bore you can't run in the normal classes at a PS race. You can ONLY race against other cougars. It is silly to even recommend a cougar right now because they are not going any faster than a non-spread, plus they can only race in one PS sanctioned class (which is sounds like he is interested in). If it is your first motor, don't build a triple. The Puerto Rico guys are crazy...lol, you have to watch yourself around them guys

I run an 8 plate...

Curious why you say that

Most of the lock up's doing manufactured right now are single stage lockers. Not really any tuning that goes into one. CPindInc is coming out with some new lock ups that will allow you to adjust the amount of slip the clutch has, but they aren't open to the public yet. Here is a video against my good friend Dennis Packard.

I don't think I have any still pictures of it. Just action shots

I would go DM/DMX over twister personally. Cheaper and faster. I wouldn't go cougar until they are a little more figured out. Even an 18mm DM will need a billet trans with you on it. Remember, your weight puts stress on all the parts. You don't want to cut corners on a big build. It will just cost you more in the end.

I will agree that an alcohol plug is a little tougher to read, but ANY extremely lean motor, whether it is gas, alcohol, nitro, E85 is going to detonate and stick. However, a slightly lean alcohol motor won't kill itself like a slightly lean gas motor will.

This is a common misconception. Alcohol is actually much more forgiving than gasoline.

Pretty small target. Better be a well placed kick. Well hopefully you can ride. It is a lot of fun out there. Hopefully that chassis they are running holds up this time

Hey punk! I ran a 3.70 with injection. That isn't bad, but it is a far cry from 40's I guess. Don't worry. I took all that junk off so you and I could race carbs vs. carbs at Avi. In all honesty, it costs about the same to blow a big motor up vs. a small motor. They all cost the same to replate, and pistons have all magically jumped into the 150 range.

All the video's that I have of it are in 1080p HD format. Plus it takes a hell of a computer just to run it. I think I have a video where I was racing Dennis Packard over in Gilbert, LA last April. I'll see if I can find it. Expect to spend 15k top to bottom on an 18mm DMX done right...

Lol, thanks Rico. Your weight is the killer element here. 275 is not easy to move. A 10mm DM would probably get you there, but it may not like it. I would go a little bigger if it were me since cost at that point is similar with the only additional expense is crank. A 14mm DM is about as far as I would push a stock tranny too. Or you can buy my 18mm DMX and run 3.70's with you on it