lowriderb

ive had 2.80's and 2.36's now.

lol, na thats for saving weight.. i just cant put the cheeseburgers down so thats the next best thing.. i was just test fitting the cylinders..i have to get the new billet output shaft in and cut the trans for 6th gear override and ill have it back together and back in the chassis..

same feed back, ordered a stock trans from him and within a few days it was already at my door! thanks again!! Brennon

what kind of drop kit do you have?

heres how to stop case flex.

bump

if it were me, no not till i had to do it. as long as you dont have the motor with high compression and alot of timing when you try to cram alot of spray into it i wouldnt think youd need to oring the cases. if your that much wanting to make the bottom end bullet proof then i would get the back trans area welded with extra material and then plan on trying to weld the bottom of the cases to give you more there too. with a small stroke (4 or so and under) where your not trenching the cases and taking alot of material away you shouldnt have a problem.. the cylinder pressures when your spraying it especially with alot will increase dramatically. the 392 cub that i just got done putting together to play with till my big bike is complete, i set up with 21cc domes and that lowered the compression quite a bit to where i feel comfortable putting a 50 shot to it with no problems thats completely stock cases too..

im collecting parts right now, with only the fuel pump, some silicone tubing and t clamps to get. i have a few things to cut on with my drag chassis' subframe and a few brackets on there for that. once i have it all mounted and fitted up, im going to tear the whole bike down again and powder coat the frame, paint the plastics, ect. ill have pics of it when i get to that point. i have a truck ill be finishing the frame for in the next week or two and ill have that back on my main projects list to get finished. right now im looking to get the axle, cases, clutch and stator side covers polished. when the air box is finished ill need that polished too. im going to get the carbs powder coated and a few things chromed with the chassis too. so its basically a whole complete rebuild..lol nitrous cub: the builders mentioned can do it, depending on where your at and which would be more conveinent for you to send your cases off to. oringing the cases though isnt really necessary till your hitting higher boost and if you look at it you want to have the back side of the cases welded (internally) to give you more sealing space/mating surface for the cases to seal. running higher boost, ive seen the cases and seals need to be sealed in, the over flows on everything have to be ran to some part of the vac/boost system so you dont pressure up one part of the cases and not the other ect.. so keep that in mind too.

the billet stuff is for reliability as far as case flex and the transmission. im still using a stock transmission as well, but ill be getting a billet output shaft and already have the billet 2nd gear. the turbo i have is a garret gt25. the past sealed bearing turbo's (aeromotive) didnt like to run alot of boost before breaking down. the 350cc motors turn the turbo's just fine, the bigger stroke motors i think will turn the gt25's better. mattoon had billet cases on sale during christmas for 1600-1750. the clutch set ups was on sale as well for like 950 or so too..

look up this place, its where i bought my oil pump. i bought a 12 volt cause im not running a charging system (total loss). http://www.greylor.com/productline_pq1224.htm graylor pq 12 part #001-120200 its a 12v pump, if your running a charging system then they will tell you to run the 24v pump that i dont have the part number for. from what ive seen the expansion box (air box) is so there is a diffuser between the carbs (or in this case throttle bodies) which makes for more uniform flow into the cylinders. also, ive seen a 12mm trex that is pushing right at 18#'s of boost with stock studs/cases. the cases are now o-ringed but that only just got done cause it twisted the output shaft and the cases had to be split. it made right at 178hp and 115tq the trans can and will break when you start getting into the higher power ranges.. ill be starting assembling my 10mm mini twister turbo soon as well, im waiting for a billet output shaft for the trans and ill be swapping to billet cases as well to keep from having any flex which can kill a trans too..

according to fedex and ups sites, its not worth it for you to ship from here to there. the quote i got from the ups site was 250 for just shipping alone.

i have a set of t-3's that im looking to sell if your interested in them too. here's the post i made on them, pm me with your shipping info so i could get an acurate price and all for shipping overseas.

i just got it, they are sold!

they are the ones direct drive mounted on there, they are 18in tall

that rock you been hiding under has got to be heavy!! lol bump

I'm posting these up for sale for a friend of mine. they are direct drive spindle mount wheels with tires, the pattern is "drive by". They have the tapered bearings in the for the stock spindles. He is wanting $400 shipped for these. Any questions just pm me.

what is the trans cut to?

i pm'd you also.

i got one seat done by deafman chassis. turned out great and was quick as hell too.. if your looking for fabric to try your own check this site out. velveteen is swirl velvet and that holds up pretty good.http://www.distinctivefabric.com/

a fab shop could do it no problem, or if you know someone that has and can tig weld could do it pretty easy too. i would cut them with a band saw or something that would cut them evenly all the way across so you can take and exact slice out of the head pipe.

they cut about an inch out of the belly of the head pipe to make it rev out into the high rpm ranges like the drag pipes do. the next biggest advantage of having them is they are almost completely out of the way of your legs unlike the inframe drag pipes.

150 shipped!

depending on what the other bike is running you may have a shot, i like running the 20in rear wheels to help take the stress off of the trans instead of running the biggest sprokets known to man.. if its something like a big cheetah or minitwister he may be making quite a bit more power than yours with that being said, i would think that if they were both stock weight bikes with him running more power and rider weights being around the same. it would come down to who could get the better hole shot. then just hope you have enough to keep it to the end.

na i never did worry about getting any vids of this bike running, they sounded pretty similar to the t-5's. when these were in production they used to cut the belly out of the pipes like an inch or so to make them rev out to drag pipe type rpm's. they did seem to pull pretty good on top end of course im used of a different kind of pull with the bigger bikes.

pistons are sold. thanks