ClaudeMachining

Bearing on the drum, shift star, shift shaft, detent arm, dogs are the most common mods. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

Drag is gay. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

They are jelly of your new Shocks. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

To bad for you. Envoyé de mon GT-P5113 en utilisant Tapatalk

First time I will using it. It seems to have many opinions about separation of castor oil with fuel. Documentation say it separate below 35F. Envoyé de mon GT-P5113 en utilisant Tapatalk

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil Envoyé de mon GT-P5113 en utilisant Tapatalk

Here is a post made in may 2015 that I found today about Castor oil. Back in 1983 there was quite a controversy in magazines about the tests that were necessary to measure the "lubricity" of various oils that might be useful in engines. Castor oil was used as the benchmark, but it was obvious no one knew why this was so. They apparently got a lot of info on various industry tests of lubricants, but these were really designed for other purposes. This was my answer. I will remind you that I was a lubrication engineer and not a chemist, but I drew my chemical info from Bob Durr, the most experienced lubricant scientist in the labs at Conoco. Bob worked with my group on many product development projects and I can tell you that he is one smart hombre! Small changes were made in the text, but surprisingly very little has really changed since this was originally written. Here goes with the answer: "I thought I would answer your plea for more information on castor oil and its "film strength", which can be a very misleading term. I have never really seen a satisfactory way to measure the film strength of an oil like castor oil. We routinely use tests like the Falex test, the Timken test or the Shell 4-ball test, but these are primarily designed to measure the effect of chemical extreme pressure agents such as are used in gear oils. These "EP" agents have no function in an IC engine, particularly the two-stroke model engine types. You really have to go back to the basics of lubrication to get a better handle on what happens in a engine. For any fluid to act as a lubricant, it must first be "polar" enough to wet the moving surfaces. Next, it must have a high resistance to surface boiling and vaporization at the temperatures encountered. Ideally the fluid should have "oiliness", which is difficult to measure but generally requires a rather large molecular structure. Even water can be a good lubricant under the right conditions. Castor oil meets these rather simple requirements in an engine, with only one really severe drawback in that it is thermally unstable. This unusual instability is the thing that lets castor oil lubricate at temperatures well beyond those at which most synthetics will work. Castor oil is roughly 87% triglyceride of ricinoleic acid, [ (CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2CH=CH(CH2)7COO)3(OC)3H5 ], which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position. As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Another look at the molecule. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F (343 deg C). Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant! Unfortunately, the end byproduct of this process is what we refer to as "varnish." So, you can't have everything, but you can come close by running a mixture of castor oil with polyalkylene glycol like Union Carbide's UCON, or their MA 731. This mixture has some synergistic properties, or better properties than either product had alone. As an interesting sidelight, castor oil can be stabilized to a degree by the addition of Vitamin E (Tocopherol) in small quantities, but if you make it too stable it would no longer offer the unusual high temperature protection that it did before. Castor oil is not normally soluble in ordinary petroleum oils, but if you polymerize it for several hours at 300 degrees F (149 deg C), the polymerized oil becomes soluble. Hydrogenation achieves somewhat the same effect. Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces. It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F (229 deg C), but its fire point is about 840 degrees F (449 deg C)! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F (176-204 deg C)and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F (288 deg C), or slightly higher. Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn in the combustion chamber if you get off too lean. Castor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design. Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons. So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity. Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants! ( " 927 " is a mix as described here!) In spite of all this, the synthetics are still excellent lubricants if you know their limitations and work within those limits. Used properly, engine life will be good with either product. Cooked on a lean run, castor oil will win every time. A mix of the two can give the best of both worlds. Like most things in this old life, lubricants are always a compromise of good and bad properties. Synthetics yield a clean engine, while castor oil yields a dirty engine, but at least now you know why! "

I tought only third world country were struk by tornados.

Dont forget to tell buyer that the black mark +4 timing!! Why are you selling it? Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

The most important thing is to feel the balance point and that's what most people are afraid of when doing their first wheelee. It's not natural. The wheel chair trick is very productive.

BTW, the best advice i can give to you is to find a wheel chair and pratice/feel the balance point. Then do all rocket science stuff lol!!!

Still not rocket science.

It was working good before isnt it?

Dam guys, doing a wheelee with a banshe is not rocket science lol!!

Filling the basket is a temporary patch. If basket is grooved, buy a new one. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

Shit, they removed the fb thread drama about the chain guard

916, are imho, the best sounding pipe.

Il y a plusieurs shop aux Québec qui sont capable de faire des crank. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

One Day, when I will stop being lazy, I will do the math about bearings to clear that up. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

More compression = more power, but past a certain point, the fuel will ignite by itself, without the spark, wich is no bueno. Adding octane will help to solve that pre ignition problem. The easiest way to play with compression is having a coolhead type and replacable domes. You can raise or lower compression by changing the size of the domes. Envoyé de mon GT-P5113 en utilisant Tapatalk

Dick pic?? I'm in!!! Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

Shhhh! Dont tell my secret!!!

Working perfectly!! I hope the 390F rated hose will work. I'm not looking for a hose to work at least one season. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

Look like this. I don't need a thick walled rubber, that's why I don't want to use the 'common' one. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

I already addressed than in my new clamp ;-) Others use a thicker rubber to compensate the diameter difference between pipe and stinger and that's why some people have hard time to make them leak free. My clamp got dual inner diameter with a nice round transition. Thats why im able to use a thiner tube. You will have a right and a left clamp. I'm in my bath right now, I'll make you a drawing later to be sure we understand each other. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk