Dunatic619

Nope.

So now I've sold my cylinders, and I'm probably going with a set of DL LP timing cylinders. Looking for a nice torque curve to ride and hoping these cylinder will help me achieve that. I'm also thinking maybe going serval, but we'll see how that goes. Got my frame back from powder.

Yes. Supposed to be good for another 1-2 ponies.

Arms gone! Still have the desert tank and rear hubs. Also have a + 6 swinger for stock carrier. Thing is heavy and built tough as shit. Looking for $200 shipped and paypaled. It's chrome, but the chrome is rough. Pics coming soon.

Let's get this shit outa here! Arms: $180 papypaled and shipped. Bars and risers: gone Desert tank: $100 paypaled and shipped. Hubs: $30 paypaled and shipped/set

Thank GOD! You can see it in the bottom right hand side of the pic. About 1/4" long. I actually pulled out 2 pieces. I'm so glad I was able to get it before they went into the bottom end. I was even starting to price 10ml cranks. Looks like this little 4ml will be around for awhile longer. Now unfortunately my chrome dude's parents were in a really bad accident. So my chrome has to take a back seat for awhile. No biggie, bike will still look good, just a little off til I get the chrome and polish done. But I'm going to put it back together complete because I have a big riding trip to Mexico starting the 23rd.

That's what I was thinking too. Hope to have it open tonight to get a look. On a side note. HJR ported my cases too. But if I do switch to DL 68 mm cylinders, would that case port need to be redone?

I'm hopping I can pull just the juggs and its on top.

Well... Check this shit out. I didn't have time to do a squish test. So my boy tells me, "bro, I can do it for you, so you can hurry up and get your shit back together." Powder called and said frame and parts are ready. So I let him do it. He wants to go thru the spark plug hole. I tell him no. Do it by removing the head. That's what he does. Squish comes back at .0420 right and .0425 left. Seems like a decent squish to me. But then he says, "bro, some of the solder wire from the left cylinder didn't make it out." Wtf?!?! Turns out he got a littl overzealous when cranking by hand. A piece of the solder was cut by one of the ports in the cylinder and it wasn't the exhaust port. I pulled out the freeze plug from the leak down and it wasn't in there. SHIIIIIIIT! My gut tells me to break apart and pull out the solder. But, it's solder, soft ass and malleable. I'd imagine it might not be that bad. But if I have to break down, think I just go 10ml with DL cylinders. I really don't want to do that, this engine has like 10 hours on it. What say you???

I think any head is great!

Switched domes. Buttoned head back up. Passed leak down. On to check squish.

What would u recommend trick? I want to get this shit fixed the right way the first time. Should I even bother swapping domes and checking for squibs now? Or just get at driveline ASAP?

Thanks sheerider. I'll get at driveline form some domes. But, I don't know the port specs, like intake of x, exhaust of y. I'll hit them up and let them know what I'm running and see if they can help me out. I know HJR gets his domes from NOSS. Figures since that's where most went for domes, it would be ok. I am going to throw the new domes in and check squish. Just make sure everything is good with that. Is there a best method for checking squish? I know of 2 ways to do it. 1: thru the spark plug hole, 2: with the head off and placing a piece of soder in the cylinder, put head on, tighten to specs, crank, remove head. I personally would like to do the spark plug hole. Don't really want to mess with removing the head again and having to get the damn o rings in place.

Also run maxima super m 36:1

@ 50: I'll do some research on piston wash. @ tricked: domes I ordered were custom cut from HJR. Old domes were 23cc. New are 20cc. I'm thinking this might be too big of a jump. Planning on using 100LL for fuel. HJR said 165 comp and 4 degrees of timing would be about the max I could run on that. So I think I might switch domes to 21cc. He said with 20cc id be around 175ish. For carbs: 28pwk, 48 pilot, jjh needle @ 4th clip, 152 main.

So I was able to escape to the garage for 30 min today and remove the head for the new domes. Here's what I found. First, HJR likes his 3bond! But it passed a leak down, so I can't be mad at him. Looks like one of the gaskets was melted/smashed? Normal? Also, how do the pistons look to you guys? Engine has maybe 10 hours on it. Are the pistons supposed to come this high above the cylinder? Also, what everyone thing about the hemi head? It's old a shit, but hasn't let me down. Think I bought it in 2003.

GUSTO! Thanks man. Hope all is well with you. Thanks for that. Comes from chroming car suspensions. Need to make sure even the nuts and bolts look tits. Most of the stock bolts have a little lip around the perimeter of the head. Kinda makes them like a bowl turned sideways. Easy to hold onto shit that gets stuck in there, mud, sand, whatever else you hit while riding. Makes cleaning them out a real kick in the twat. When ground smooth and flat, claeaning is simple. Plus, water on chrome will cause it to haze and look like crap if not cleaned off properly. Which leads to rust. Thanks zilla! ^^ this all day. When I used to build cars, I would hate when people would drop 5-7K on a paint job, then hit their suspensions with 99 cent spray paint. Dumb shits.

Ok queers it's time for a build thread. Had the bike for years, broke my back and didn't ride for about 10 years. Then all of a sudden I figured I'd dust of my cooter and get back on the horse. Had HJR build it for me. He did a 4ml, real fuggen HR crank, stock cylinder, aggressive mx port, matching case port, shift star mod, pancake bearing, and some other odds and ends. Was going to do a pro-mod, but didn't have time to wait, and I never had a problem shifting anyway. It'll get done next time I split the cases. Here's what it looked like in pismo August 2015. Decided since I neglected this turd for so many years, it was time to do a full rebuild from the ground up. Frame, front/rear hubs, brake hub, sprocket hub, and brake stay will be PC'd candy blue. Color matches pretty well with my fullbore pearl blues. Upper and lower A-arms are chromed along with my Tyson +2 swinger. Dat chrome doe! Various bolts will be chromed too. Started grinding them down. Got a box going for polish too. All hardware from frame separated into bags so shit doesn't get lost. Since engine was out I went ahead a did a leak down. It held 6lbs for 6 min. Next I'm pulling the head and swapping domes. Static compression is at 150 with +2 timing. Bumped the timing up to +4 and with new domes should be around 170-175 static compression. Going to run 100LL fuel, so I might tard the timing a bit. Then I'll run the piss out of it til it needs a new top end and prolly go driveline cylinders. I'm sure I'll have Qs along the way. I've never done a full frame shee before. Done plenty of cars, so although it's different, the build principals are the same. Let me know if I missed/miss anything.

The darker blue, baby blue was a color combo car clubs use to use for their colors. Usually dark blue shirts with baby blue lettering. That's where the idea came from. I used to lowrider heavily, but my family enjoys this much more, so switched up for more family time.

It'll look good. Plus the front bumper and grab bar will be black and nerfs too. So it'll balance out. Rear end will looks tits!

So I'm going to go candy blue with the frame. Dropping everything off tomorrow. Getiting the frame, front & rear hubs, brake hub, sprocket hub and brake line holders for a-arms all done the same color. Spindles will get powdered black. All brake calipers will be polished, along with the dogbone and rear linkage. Was also thinking of getting the brake stay powdered too. Will powdering make fitment difficult?

^ and a tuggy.

Brakes are for pussies

The dude was muttering 1" inch as he walked away and grabbed it for me. But not sure exactly because although the I.D. Is the same, outer is not. GL either way. And no washer on mine.

Think they only offer preload and low speed compression.