fixitrod

If those poly ones are anything like the poly 35mm boots I bought they are junk. They look good but have no grip on the carb. Stick with stock or a good rubber boot.

The reason he posted that was because a lot of people seriously doughted he had any sponsorship at all. Roll Design was the big one that wasn't believed. It wasn't to prove it to everyone... well, maybe it was.. lol, but that's were this started (in another thread). I don't know how good or bad you really are but congratulations on the sponsorships!!!

How's the testing going??

I just sent them an email, we'll see what the response is.

Sounds like yoga to me.... useful energy and not useful energy that is wasted. Here's a theory from an automotive teacher I had about split fire plugs compared to a standard quality plug that fires. If I put you in a room full of gas fumes, which will make a more powerful explosion.. a torch or a lighter... you get to choose.

Sounds like a good starting point, maybe even richer. It's about 1 jet size per 15 degrees in a perfect world. To richen the needle you want to raise it. In order to do that you'll have to lower the clip.

You can drill your stock one like that. Remember that It will pull the clutch less distance so you'll have to pull it all the way in but yes, it's suppose to help give you more mechanical advantage.

Stock banshee fibers are the same part number as the fzr600 fibers.

That money they bring in should be spent on the employees salaries. How in the hell do they get extra shit like that when you and I are paying taxes... bullshit.

You can definitley modify the cages. I've never heard of anyone modifiying the reeds themselves. I guess you could thin them out or something

http://www.thebansheezone.com/Bansheezone/Topend.htm This is from Meats site. Best I know of for the banshee with pics

I know I don't ride in a ton of sand, but wouldn't the amount of paddle change with the length of the arm for take offs. I run 21" 9 paddles now but I need a longer swing arm. I hate to say this, but your best bet may be to get ahold of some of the guys on planet sand. There are some big drag set ups over there.

You're builder can help answer those questions the best. If it's eric gorr, he won't steer you wrong.

To bad you don't like black. Seems like it'd blend really good with the plastics and frame color. Anyway, I'd pc it for sure. Once chrome chips.. that's it. You can't just patch it with some paint. It'll start to flake and you'll hate it. I wish I never would have bought chrome pipes for that reason.

Where are you located?

This is from Eric Gorrs web page 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

With the history and knowledge that Eric Gorr has I can believe his work is good. For those of you that have never heard of Eric Gorr, you can go to www.ericgorr.com and see for yourself. He's a very realistic type... not a bunch of bullshit hype.

That's the first thing I thought too when you said you had billet parts going on it.

www.4pig.com

Well, if you get a noss head you don't have to mess with the studs. Also, he can guide you in the direction of what size dome for your elevation. If you do need to remove the studs, just put two nuts together tight. Then you can use the bottom one to get the stud out.

If it's fast enough get some shocks. You can get an adjustable timing plate from ricky stator for $35. What type of riding?

I just realized I have it saved. Email me at [email protected] and I'll send it to you.

www.rickystator.com They sell the stock output with timing plate for $125.

I live in Fort Wayne IN. We head up to Cedar Point every once in a while.

I'd have to say the geometry of the 250r is better. Actually, the mx banshee guys try to get 250r style geometry frames for their banshees. Run each on the track and see which one gives you the best lap times.