fixitrod

Yeah, haven't ridden in years. I blew my back out about 10 or 11 years ago and haven't been able to ride. Still, have my Banshee in hopes one of these docs figures out my situation. But yeah, go ahead, dig in. The last big ride I went on was Glamis. I think that was 06 or something. We had a group on this site that got together at Dumont, Glamis, Some Coal hills in PA, Silver Lake. Lot of fun.

I just noticed the 4000 ads. It's thriving for somebody

Did it start directly after the new filter or a drastic temprature change? Just thinking fuel to air ratio without more info. Did anything else change?

Just curious if any of the old HQ54 guys or people that I use to ride with are still here. Been several years since I've been on here. Just poking around. Glad to see this site still thriving. Even a few trolls to keep it lively so you know it's here to stay!

Well, I hate to do this, but I have to sell my Yamaha Banshee. This has been very modified. It has 1 trip to Dumont California (4 days), 1 trip to Glamis California (4 days), 1 trip to Silver Lake in Michigan (weekend), 1 day at the Badlands and some wheelie rides in front of my house on the motor. I probably would guess hrs on the motor to be 45 - 55 or so. The price is $4500 firm. If you see the mods and extra's going with it you'll see why. I put $2500 in suspension alone. The motor has over $2000 for porting, head, manifold, carbs, filters, etc... I have receipt for the porting and crank work. I can tear motor down for a fee if you want to see inside. Pictures here http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/mcy/2481040700.html Headlights removed but I do have some,. I had it at Glamis 6yrs ago and the jetting was WAY rich. I can't believe how this thing runs now. I rode a few wheelies in the driveway about 3 yrs ago. That's about it. Beyond the mods I have several parts and sand tires that will go with. 1997 stock yellow and red plastics with fenders cut. Much easier to see what your driving around in the woods and it looks better. When your in mud your gonna get dirty with or without fenders. This is a Stroker Motor Bored only .20 over, 4mm stroker crank (TZ Bearing added for wear and HP (needle bearings instead of ball bearings) with wiseco 795 series pistons on long rods Custom Axix front and rear shocks with a spare set of springs so you can adjust to your liking or weight. Always serviced by Custom Axis Only. They have about 7 rides on them since last rebuild. Shocks have remote resivoirs for heat disapation with adjustments withing reach while riding!!!! Chrome fmf fattys and Chrome silencers Grand River Racing Ported cylinders Noss Head custom head (domes custom made by Noss for this motor. I worked with Dan directly if I remember his name correctly. If you know him tell him fixitrod from www.bansheehq.com says hello!) I have a cut stock head that will be supplied as well for running pump gas. It currently needs 113 octane. I use Klotz. V-Force Delta 2 reeds and cages Pod K&N filters with two rides Steering Damper (with wider A-arms you seem to bump things on the trails or get pulled in ruts on mud or sand. This keeps it straight!!!) Ricky Stator +2 a-arms Renthal Bars shift star mod for super smooth shifting and finding nuetral very easily barnett dirt digger clutch with 4 rides hinson clutch basket with 4 rides 35mm pwk carbs Aluminum intake manifolds maxxis razr tires on .190 douglas wheels DiD x ring chain (great chain) case saver (keeps chain from breaking case if it happens to break) www.dirtly.com chain slider (eliminates the rolling wheel which always goes bad) ac front bumper ac modified pro peg nerfs with pegs moved back 2 inches. People say it feels like a cadillac compared to normal. (Strengthened in front to keep the from sagging or breaking) short shifter for comfort of moved pegs relocated coolant bottle (Moved to the front to keep the "Siphon" effect from happening. I had to put coolant in all the time until I moved it. One fill all summer, no worries about overheating) Temprature gauge currently 15/41 gearing -2 swingarm mounted currently Stock Swingarm included + 3 1/4 swingarm (Depends where I'm riding) included EZ Pull Clutch That's all I can think of right now. Included Currently it runs 190 psi with the head and needs 113 octane. I have a spare head that you can run pump gas and a set of domes for the noss head if you want to run that. Tons of jets for carbs. Probably $200 worth or more Front and V style Rear Sand tires. Not the ones pictured Extra set of springs for Custom Axis shocks front and rear It has a shortended swingarm on it. I'm including a + 3.25 (dunes and drag(very fun)) and a stock Clymers repair manual Few gallons for 113 octane Klotz racing fuel to get you started. It's a fresh 5 gallon ($80). I'll open it when somebody is ready to buy it. Under body skid plate, not mounted I have some other stuff... it's all going with. $4500 firm

What's going on everyone? Hope all the old schoolers and their families are doing well. I haven't been on much in the last 3 yrs after loosing a job and back surgery. Actually, I haven't really been riding in about 4. Anyway, just wanted to say hey and see if anybody is still hanging around here from a few yrs ago. I'm glad to see all the new interest as well. Lee, site looks amazing. Sure a jump from Network54 days. P.S. I'm selling the shee. I'll post it in the classified. It's still the same shee since I haven't ridden it. Jason, you know you want it!!! ... lol.

I'm still kickin... kinda. :geek:

Some do use stock length rods on the 4 mil cranks. Puts some extra angle on them but it can be done. I thinks it's the 7mil that is 100% in need of longer rods.

Yes it is... great analogy. step up transformer just like in a power supply or battery charger.

Correct. It would cost near as much as a ricky stator a-arms to get them redone later.

I'm glad to see not only some names I know but some people I know here. We need to do something to meet some more of these people. Coalfest... roostfest... I don't care what you call it... let's freakin ride. I'm not getting any younger.. lol.

OH .. lol should be with the kit.

72 but it's all realitive to gearing. There are so many rpms ... so you translate that to gearing. Then with more power, taller gears and more speed. It's not the top speed... it's how fast you get there

Kinda of like a boat... You don't want any water anywhere. I normally just park it right or wrong... lol Here are some steps that will insure good storage in the cold. Make sure water is 50 percent antifreeze. (Don't need cracked cylinders) Put one teaspoon of 2 stroke oil or fogging oil in each cylinder.(keeps cylinders nice) Put fill the tank full(prevents moisture) put fuel stabilizer in. Turn off fuel and run fuel out of carbs (prevents sticky old fuel from clogging). Tip the quad up on the grab bar for a few minutes to let the water run out of the frame. It does build up. Open the stator cover to let any water run out that may have collected from the summer. Grease all zerks to put water and dirt out. Change the tranny oil in case there is water in there. That's all I can think of right now. There may be more but it's a start

My test the same way... always has. I have replaced my stator twice... no matter what the testing says and it's been the right choice. I think you'll fine the coil is fine. Oh, and I haven't had one issue since I put in a ricky stator stator. Everything they make is quality.

Did it start doing that when it was cold? Will it start if you open the throttle? Is the tube between the carbs? Are you using the choke ? Is your filter clean... or at least not ridiculously dirty? Is your idle set decent? Is your gas old? Are the carb caps tight? Sounds like the pilot screws need adjusted though... I agree. Just some simple things to start with.

1998 Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee 2-Cylinder 2-Stroke 350cc Trade-In Value (Good Condition) $1745 1998 Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee 2-Cylinder 2-Stroke 350cc Suggested Retail Value $2590 So, stock in normal condition I'd say between these numbers.

This can be very important. I like the broom handle idea. You can feel the crunching when doing the tap. That's done by hand not a drill. When you feel extra resistance back it out some so the metal can clean out of the tap. dajogejr is right ... in and out... smooth and steady... you know the drill... do you have kids. :cool:

I've had low end bog issues for a lonnnnnngggg time. I had went super lean on my pilot and it helped but not fixed. Tried several needles and at all heights. Believe it or not leaning my main helped it a ton. I was way too rich and it was screwing my bottom end. Sounds nuts, try it though. If it scares you just dont rap it out at high rpm right away. Try it at low rpm where the bog is. May or may not help... did mine and I couldn't believe it. All simple theory goes against it but when you think about it .... kind of makes since. I'm right at 190psi also.

You can gear for either one. The 22's will float more on the sand and be rounder where the tread is.

oh yeah... I can still walk it till my had hurt so bad I can't hang on. I haven't done much more riding than that tough. I'll check your vid out later. My PDA doesn't run JAVA so I can't see it. Gald to see another 2 stroke stay on 2 wheels.

Still kickin... barely .... but still kickin. trying to make a living. Nothing has been right since I lost my job 2 yrs ago. Guess thats what happens when you make good money working for the man... and need to find it all over again... hard to do. but, makin it. how about you... doin alright?

I haven't been on for over a year... first time back on and I can't turn this computer off.... mannnnnnnnn ...... damn relapse

I think it was Larry Bird :biggrin: