KozyHeat

Yeah I was harsh. His incoherent 1am post coupled with my response later that night . That scenario in the beginning was totally unnecessary but I likened it to a example I have noted in other peoples assemblies ( people I know, and my own) doing a poor job and expecting everything out of it. I personally haven't seen anyone put together a motor I would buy - in real life. But what do I know - My engine assembly didn't quite last either. You guys read past the surface and determined he needed to learn how to identify parts. I didn't determine that otherwise I may have asked a few more questions instead of being harsh. That didn't even cross my mind to check compression, he wasn't asking. I have an inexperience with higher octane gasoline and I don't think I would build a radical setup to have the need to use a compression check to determine the fuel to use. Its mainly to check the health of the motor. Its the typical post on many of forums where the author doesn't try. I shouldn't follow the crowd though I should treat people with respect - and how I wish to be treated. Some of the members here are older too which is different than some other crowds. In this case with timeframes involved and sleep deprivation coming into play that could lead to a little hostility. Obvious fix would be to simply not check up online late-night. In any case, Thank you Troy for the hookup a while ago. Your love for the community shows when you give parts away. Thank you for letting me explain why I acted foolishly instead of just attacking me. I definitely don't approve and would more than take it back and do the opposite.

Yeah, Im glad I didn't post the picture I made, you guys wouldn't get a kick out of it. Obviously being early in the morning helps also. I was thinking his machine was stock but its obviously not. Oah well. WIth all those mods, a few hundred dollars to help the transmission along sure would go a long way. On a stock machine I personally wouldn't though unless your planning on upgrading in the future. I was referring to this post: Member on the forum here that cuts em: CamATV ""I would have CamATV cut your transmission for sure. When you start putting down some power (sometimes even just piped) the tranny starts shifting like crap. You will be kicking yourself if you put it all back together and still have the crappy shifting. Just have it done and truly get the most out of your engine mods. It make a HUGE difference ."" Sprinklerman Here

Im going to split my cases and decided it isn't quite worth sending out my transmission pieces to get modded. The average rider won't benefit from the few mods. Thats just with minimal searching though. I forgot what it is called. There is a board member here that provides the service. If you have money coming out your ears, then by all means.

Are you sure its not a nick/gouge in the cranks shaft? Like the previous owner used a screw or something to remove the seal and it rubbed on the mating surface? Just because you spin the crank doesn't mean it will improve because of that. Couldn't the nick/scratch hurt the sealing surface of the inner seal? when you replace the seal, see if you can see a scratch or gouge again and try to sand it out of the crank sealing surface. Really high grit. I've scratched a crank before and I did that with it and it held up. Just so you know a Seal behind the stator on a banshee is called a Crank Seal I think. So maybe use that as a keyword for searching.

he doesn't list his setup because he doesn't know. He doesn't even want to figure it out, he wants YOU to figure it out for him. Go back to where you bought it and ask him for specifics. Lets ask the builder instead of internet people. And im the dick SpittnKlotz, if you want to spoon feed him, answer his +4 crank question, All I know is to space out the cylinder because adding +2mm on the stroke would mean its going to hit the head at this point.

Heres what the holy Banshee HQ has determined Your setup is overbored from a seize, somebody tried to run straight gas through and it didnt last very long. The new owner found some rings that would work and quickly reused all the old gaskets, circlips and wrist pins. The nerve of him! He didn't even bother to check the ring gap!!! What an Idiot, you know the bottom ring always gaps bigger than the top! Now you have an awesome motor - Bound to succeed - its all Yours! Its has a lot more compression than before because he milled the head for sure! because it used to not run ... <insert goofy (the disney character) hayuk> You want to be schooled by the banshee HQ? I'll tell you what the members are thinking... How about you figure it out yourself since you or anyone in the 'bansheehq' really knows what is in your motor, but only one person really cares. And come back with a more technical question that 'bansheehq' can actually answer.

Many things could've happened. #1 question: Did you mess with anything THAT DAY on the Banshee? Yeah the case could probably be welded but you can also find case halves on the buy/sell here for really reasonable. Same with the cylinders - Yeah they can be resleeved but maybe you can pay a little more and get a new set.

I'm more worried about the chassis versus more modern bikes - Which is why I am asking about the chassis. I honestly don't know but hows the suspension, handling, and braking of an old RD is compared to modern bikes. I think that will slow you down unless you address those with some chassis mods and new components. Its not that hard to modify new forks, just make sure they got a nice set of brakes that can take racing

Whats your chassis that weighs 330lbs?

You oops you found the problem. Make sure your new set of carbs is synced!

OP already said he had the choke tube in place. No mention of keyword 'sync' on page 1, or 2. lets try this question. Are your carburetors perfectly in sync? If you blew up your last motor and now this one you have to check that. reason being, I was messing with my throttle adjustment and I knocked the carburetors out of sync terribly a week ago. At WOT it makes a big difference which cylinder gets more air + fuel. I have a nice score on the exhaust side of the piston on the left side methinks.

After you port the cylinders you should also match the case to the cylinders. Example: Look at the photo. Here is what is going on... The BLACK gasket matches the cylinder and the transfer on the cylinder. The Case is the Gray FLAT gasket mating surface. Dremel it to open up the transfer even more so the case can flow. Thats all thats necessary as far as I know for case mods. Even after doing that your gasket area has pleanty of sealing power. No base leaks

My carburetors were out of sync. I messed it up bad when I tried to get it to Idle earlier that day. I did not realize how critical the sync is! In either case - to loose a motor over something so simple as a leakdown test would be silly. I have to do them now when I assemble a motor. Probably be a few months before I throw it all together.

Local speed shop drilled, tapped, and inserted a cylinder stud for free. Buddy buddy it up Go to a local shop and tell them your situation that you were going to buy a kit but you just need two coiled. They might help you out on the cheap. Put that dab of loctite on too.

sorry for ruining a beloved Yamaha Banshee. I will have to do better next time.

I suppose. I should have noticed it but I was upjetted so far I didnt feel it. Maybe slightly,

My spark plug came loose and I blew the left side out - What does that have to do with crank seals, tranny vent, and a leakdown. Obviously wasn't the problem. My plug literally blew out or was undertorqued

I don't think the leakdown would've cought a leaking spark plug because it never weeped from the head until today.

Spark plug worked its way loose on the left cylinder, air leak, Blown up I guess that means you should always check them and torque them properly. Clearly my fault on this one. Performance difference was hardly noticable. I have a 240 jet and its a warm day so I thought It was four-stroking like I wanted it to. I don't think there is any chance I was detonating or pinging to force the plug loose. I went too far to forget to turn the fuel on I think, I had it on reserve and just added a gallon. 40:1 cheap oil 91 octane. I suck at tuning eah Don't know what I'm going to do

Okay I should throw up a picture of the bars. They shot alright though my spray can was dying - Maybe not as durable as I would have hoped but we'll see. They barely fit in the oven Still need to get a new bar pad Still need to make my cdi relocator in the front and harness. Got to throw my carbies back on with my new needle + mainjets for the cold weather!

Does anyone have a photo of the collar ( part #9 http://yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038969f870021f60a0a12c/front-master-cylinder ) and where it goes ? it seems like it must stop the brake from slipping but I don't know where to put it.

If you need to bore it - go oem pistons and run them tight but within clearances... then if you mess up you can always hone + go with forged

they are chinese knockoffs but the taiwan version is legit, chinese version has bad components. shiny top cap.

OKOs are fine I don't run them on my banshee but on another machine. cheap, replacement parts & jets available. no problem. Powerjet is cool with me too.

where did you put all your wiring?