KozyHeat

Bump, good seller!

Found some, thanks peepz

I have stock pipes with 34mm carbs on my j-arm banshee, I need some pipes to gain some of the performance ( plus my jetting will be closer since its fat jetting atm ) price+shipping ? any pipes, toomey, fmf, cpi, etc. can need welding / tab mods

I did some trail riding this weekend and after some spirited climbing/hills (2nd gear spinning & clutching up a long hill) I wouldn't be able to slip the clutch enough to take off if I stopped... It literally runs out of gas. The 1.5 pump needle is definitely small for hill climbing. For street / dirt it is just fine for 60mph crusing gravity fed. I think its when the stock tank gets to about 1/2 full as it didn't do it from the get go. food for thought on this topic.

Works great except that I need to custom mount the airbox... For now I have it zip-tied and it holds just fine - Obviously not ideal for real riding conditions.

Dirt Roads*. I got street tires on my setup currently so I have poor traction... like riding on glass. Yeah its hard on the gas pump but nothing beats riding home after work.

Oah yeah, totally a great idea when your on a budget, not hating on that at all - like you said it could be an easy sourced carb & cheap. 16 miles today on the banshee went fine. I got to ride to work I should get some temp indicators... or atleast egt's

I am running sled VM34's with pumper seats on them ( 1.5mm seat) 300 miles on the build so far and it doesn't show signs of problems. Your saying its necessary to change seats? Also the carb fuel inlet is 6mm inner versus the 8mm petcock. Can't find the copper/brass barbs to shrink it down correctly but it works as is.

Exactly what I am now planning. Thats a great idea to mod the airbox, I was wondering about fitment with my carburetors since they seem like they are a little low, but move the box where I need it and it'll be good. Probably run no cover as well. My jetting is super rich right now too (360 mains on stock pipes) so I haven't bothered to downjet yet because the airbox will change it

I didn't know a product like this existed Found it just now over at FAST... I hadn't heard of them until I started looking through intake products. Keeping the airbox will be good.

I didn't expect it to have anything inside of it but its hard to tell when all I get usually is generic photos, no one shows the inside either. There has been some ugly foam filters in the past I have seen with chunks missing out of them, I can only imagine its from rocks and gravel. I estimate I would need to replace them in about a year. If there is another option I would like to figure out which would suit my riding better. Otherwise it turns into a expendable item with a shelf life and not a one-time purchase. Maybe I should go with cotton mesh then.

I am really hesitant but the Foam uni's with a little bend coming out of them would fit the best. I do a lot of gravel riding though and I don't think they will hold. Same deal with the k&n style filter as well. no other reasonable options than an aftermarket box?

I have 34's on my banshee and need a filter setup now. Quickest option is Uni's or Cotton mesh style filters. Anyone have a few quick ideas that don't cost a whole lot? I need a little safer option. I still have the stock airbox. The riding I do I need a little splash protection plus the rain. It has been raining like crazy so its always wet out right now. My options do sound limited to an aftermarket airbox. VM34 57mm O.D. Air inlet side

After some more research, I just need to buy some screw in adjusters. I will probably chop off the snowmobile ones just to start it once but I will have the adjusters coming. Thanks to Vito for the help btw.

Yeah, the two cables I have the adjusters are built into the cable. The sled and Parts Unlimited do. The Vito's cable does NOT have them built in. Parts unlimited is definitely like a replacement Snowmobile setup the way the throttle outer housing terminates. I am going to pop out the adjuster end on the snowmobile throttle and see if they will slide on and be usable for the vitos cable. I really must be doing something wrong to have to monkey around with this. Where I went wrong #1 is I saw the Vitos cable and it required a " CR Style throttle " so I got it stuck in my head that every cable that is up for purchase is going to use the same. No no. Also by using snowmobile carburetors I need to change out the needle seats to compensate for Gravity fed vs. Pump fed. Just thought I would throw that out there.

So I want to put VM34's on my Shee. I got a Vitos cable, and a Motion pro twist throttle for it. Well the cable doesn't have adjusters on top of the carb caps. They also don't screw in the carb caps. How would I sync the pull action? Do I just buy caps that don't have screw in's then and run it? I got a Parts Unlimited vm34 cable and that is too short for the twist throttle. Its like a snowmobile throttle cable or something. The knarp wouldn't even fit in the throttle adjuster, I would need to grind it. can I just buy adjusters for the top of the VM's? Maybe buy a different throttle that doesn't need lots of cable.

Also heard of the black high temp paint being used on small motors ( 4t lawn mowers with funky style thin head gaskets )

with all the troll posts I can't even tell anymore

So you unplug the keyswitch which ends up leaving you with a dangling white-plastic connector. You take a piece of wire, trim/brad nail and jump the 2 connector pins to test it. You can damage the pins if you push something in there too hard so just test it carefully first. Post your results. Extra: If your killswitch on the left handlebar works you can just cut the connector off on the motor side of the harness leaving it connected to your keyswitch and strip and twist the two wires together coming from the motor and twist them together. Either way; secure your jumper well or just twist them together otherwise you will be out riding at night with no flash light and your motor will kill for no reason and you will be sitting there a few minutes fumbling with it. Also finish up with electrical tape at the least - heatshrink preferred.

They have done this as early as the 70's when marking cylinders to my knowlege. Its some sweet stamp or whatever, it lasts forever

Mine say 'A' They have more than one set of stock cylinders one could assume.

Bottom left bolt hole is for the radiator mounting tab. Bendy washer gets sandwiched Here is the back of the steering stem towards the gas tank. Got it figured out then?

Well since you have been driving your Banshee around already, Go do a plug chop on it. That will tell you how the jetting is for that weather and humidity and use that as a baseline for future jetting.

I'm not completely ruling out forged pistons still, I would just rather not drop the money and wait for the boring process. If this crank I am waiting for is sick I probably will just break down and get some.

Exhaust port roughly 52mm wide ( Curling paper inside the cylinder ) it measures at 62mm if you lay the paper flat. 26.2mm to the top 30mm tall transfers next to exhaust are both 12.5mm high and have those eyebrows on the bottom. placed 43.5mm from the top of the cylinder I didn't measure up the intakes yet... Does that help out starwriter?