KozyHeat

remove the flywheel cover ( left side ) it's on the bottom right to the flywheel. It's the pickup for the CDI box. There is the two raised notches along the outside of the flywheel. Those trigger a spark. So if it's too close it wrecks the pickup because it'll hit it. Too far and it runs funny. You can loosen the few screws and or bend the tab it's mounted on.

suggest to paint the whole chassis while your at that stage of a teardown. I'm kinda in a similar situation - Trying to figure out what to replace but my budget is in the hundreds. If your going to go with the stock carburetors - get a Tors eliminator kit. It cleans up under your seat and gives you more room to route stuff, and simplifies sync + idle. I think I'm going to relocate my overflow to up front like this kit ( http://jdscustoms.com/Yamaha_Banshee_Coolant_Bottle_Brackets.htm ) I will make it myself because I want to locate it a little differently - but there is a kit if you want to do it their way. If your re-routing /redoing your Loom / Wiring, why not?! I suppose you would need a better suspension over the stock suspension.

Which part of the cover WAS too hot to touch? I checked mine after going big blasting around town. The top part of the cover was hot. the lower was cool. I have my water pump cover off too - so felt the cover - it was fairly hot, radiator was fairly hot. I get bubbles in my radiator when I start my banshee so Im pretty sure my pumps working. Any reason I should replace my pump set?

I threw some new plugs in and got rid of the stock plug caps. It seems to be working alright now. I gotta pull the plugs after a few runs and see where I am at.

inside info!!!! j/k its posted on their site! 38mm cast $375 38mm billet $775 Accepting preorders as well

^ Take this thing, the stock knarp on your cable end ( not removable ) and you could either relocate its position to give you more pull or remove material from what limits the pull (throttle stop). Just depends. Or maybe it wouldn't work. You can modify the plastic throttle tube knarp location to give you throttle pull on a twist throttle.

Doh, yeah that sounds right on the compression tester, WHY COMPRESSION SO LOW?!!?!?!

New NGK Resistor 90° plug ends, new b8es plugs, below freezing temperatures. Still low end bog, but it flew ;P Its still broken I think though. I'll check the plug after it cools off.

But I just rebuilt - Ring end gap was little on the large side but not yet at serviceable I don't think. ^ Posted above squish is greater than .062" / 1.6mm I think thats why my compression is down.

with my engine #, how can I tell what year my motor is !? According to a post on the second page here .060 - .070" is 'reasonable' Maybe its not my problem

Okay with a Cometic gasket set and my prolite pistons My squish is greater than .062 " !!! Could that be a problem? I don't even have solder large enough to find the exact thickness. I just bend a 90degree piece and stick it in till I hit the wall, then rotate the flywheel by hand. That would be why my compression is low isn't it. So I need to measure my squish, remove the head, and have it decked? Do the pro-lite pistons wrist pin locations move or are the domes lower ? what gives?

Op says hes rebuilt and has 120psi, Im at ~ 80psi both cylinders but the compression test is flawed because the compression tester is an automotive, large cc application tester with a 2 foot hose on it. Either that or my squish is set so large that I have no compression but I'm running Pro-Lite pistons for a Banshee. Base gasket/head gasket are normal and not extra thick or anything. I tried using a piece of solder to check my squish and It didn't smush it, Im probably at like 2mm for a squish band around the outside of the pison edge.

Bummer, Just an afterthought from reading about the different throttles your all talking about.

I also have another flywheel to test from a known good Banshee... It doesn't make sense that the right side acts differently with a bad flywheel, but Ill test it also!

No way to mod the Honda thumb throttle for more pull? remove material from housing or a stopper plate, or relocate where the knarp sits in the throttle cam?

My next thing afterward would be to clear out the exhaust / bake / decake it. I have left my banshee with no plug to help drain that side if I have a fuel buildup in the bottom of it. Previous owner installed a new coil set ( the stator plate is all shiny ) so I suppose he could've done something wrong. I will pull that apart as well. I couldn't get the flywheel off last time <_could be my problem_> I have 2 pullers that are left hand thread and match the banshee BUT it wasn't coming off! So maybe I unseated the flywheel. but I did torque it down again. I wiggled the flywheel. there is only a miniscule amount of side to side play, no in and out.

Wow, same thing here MacDaddy!!!!! Backfiring out of both, but only after I swapped plugs over. So it is more like a consequence of the right side backfiring - it eventually makes the left side follow. I thought the left side would clean it up. I run crappy oil. I swapped ignition coil, I swapped the cdi box. I am super fortunate to have another set of stock carburetors from my friend. New plugs ( non resistor B8ES ( not b8hs, they are short plugs doh! ) new plug wire caps - NGK Resistor caps from local dealer - test If not working New carburetors If not working - go crazy and swap coil again, rebuild harness, pull flywheel and check magnets? make sure the keyway is in. My ignition is set up at -1degree retarded. I haven't tried advancing it any. Sounds like a lot of people like running it advanced but honestly to me that creates heat, and I want to break in my motor but I don't want anything Extra heat

Noob, today I was going to try the new plugs ... I had somebody pick some plugs up while they were in town -- I told them the wrong plug zzzz Ordered some parts last night.

^Oah yeah .. I tried a known good coil and It didn't fix my problem.

I checked my slides and they are fine.

Yeah, I will find a set of 2 non-resistor caps, and run resistor plugs. I am trying to think of a machine I can rob them but all the other stuff is content or single cylinder that I would steal it from. Maybe I should just trim back some of the insulation, install a ring terminal and put a nut on the threads on top of the plugs. I hear you can install the slides incorrectly as well. I got to go look through the airbox and see if they are backwards

Sorry - didn't see your response ( bookmark set at page 5 ) I kick it probably 5 times or whenever the needle stops moving up significantly. I forgot to do WOT the first time today and it gave me the same number, maybe even higher than when I did WOT. When I did the compression check after I put the top end together - I had no carbs and no Exhaust, so when I did it this time, I had exhaust and Carbs. Not sure if that matters though. I had a warm-ish motor ( its so cold out it cools off quickly. Probably thermosiphons itself to death in the wind)

My restore is doing the exact same thing right now -- EXCEPT! I can get mine running. My float needles seat on the right is a little bit leaky. I tried polishing it up with some chrome polish, a q tip, and a drill today but it didn't quite fix it. I might either swap carburetors and plug off the choke, or figure out something else because its just not working. I just went through my wiring to make sure there was no visible wiring problems. I have also tried a Known good coil. I had the same thought with the ignition not being able to produce a spark for TWO cycles, but does it always discharge left first? it fires on the upstroke and downstroke both times though!

pshh! Way overrated, you think they did them back in 1989! I need new spark plugs. The backfiring moved to the left side when I swapped plugs this time. BOGUS I hate wasting spark plugs like that - I need to try one of them fancy sandblasters. I gotta measure my exhaust and intake, go get a schrader valve, some pvc, and either a gas pressure tester thing or I was THINKING my bicycle pump would possibly work. The bicycle pump clamps on and has a gauge on it. Oah yeah, my right carburetor screw cap holder screw stripped off today!!!! I wasn't even torquing it on hard! Pissed me off. The left side is missing, and the right side is stripped now. I don't even think you could fit a tap in there beacuse it would bottom out so quick.

it's backfiring out the right side. It's got sparadic spark on the right side I think. But it doesn't make sense. How does only one side get bad spark? I tried switching spark plug wires. The right side if I slam it WOT and let off will make a big pop. Compression still 90 now too. I checked today. I was thinking. I suppose I could switch carburetors. Plug off the choke tubes with vaccuum caps and see if it moves to the left. my wirin is sketchy --but the ignition coil fires both times!? What gives? Right crank seal?