KozyHeat

If you are skilled - cut the fitting off, drill the top out, braze the hole shut, and braze fitting onto the top Free fix if you know somebody or have the equipment.

Thanks. I have somebody who offered to press in rod kits if thats the path I wanted to choose. I thought the kit was a lot more. :)f

psh nevermind on that magnum stuff... """WISECO CRANK REBUILD KIT CONNECTING ROD KIT""" seems to run about $150 in a quick look - but it includes both kits, not just ONE... so that is definitely an option in the budget.

What would you do? used crank ? or 2 x $55 magnum connecting rod kits on my stock crank ? Could be welded too if you guys deem it. That is option one. Another option is to go for a +4 that includes crank + piston set as one assembly Also many in-between options as well. My crank pin washer left some HUGE chunks. one is an inch long :\

This could not have been more easy... your love is a verb Here in my room this side is fine lookin' Not done yet. Just remove the 2 screws from the bearing retainer on the clutch shaft! Thats it! Dont mess with anything else. I removed the lower stuff because I will mod it, and soak my cases so they can be shot with some paint. oah well, its done its done WOWWWW That needs to be MATCHED soooo badly.

bump

Good observations. That was one of many argument differences from builders to DIY and reasons why someone would choose one over the other. Can somebody attach the pdf please? Adobe is acting up.

I was hoping there was more DIY porting in here such as some proven portmaps that the public has developed. I looked back and found a couple threads but they were really old. There are far less people that do their own portwork than I thought and It seems there is a lot of people who send their stuff off to a builder. I see both arguments. The price gives you a great value.

Will have to use that one, I broke something today.

Its messed up pretty bad. Did leakdown today - None noted along the case or crank seals or bolts or base or head. In the beginning the spark plug leaked on the right side ( opposite of the blown one ) but I tightened that ( it was a used plug ). Had it up to 60psi by accident ( unfamiliar automotive cylinder leak tester ) - SHOT out my 1/2in pvc cap Scary! Better that then the metal Expansion plug. That would be like a bullet. Tore down the motor Heads messed up a little Cylinder is really good for how much metal was in there. I will clean up on the next overbore. I checked the lower bearings for play when I installed them last time. They didnt move forward and back. Only side to side. Used a flashlight and I couldn't see any rust or anything like that. How did I break my lower bearing? Spinning the motor too fast with my small tires?

Yeah your right. They seem to work together well though. Cryo and its friend Rem isf process. Cryo removes the stress on the component and the rem leaves the piece finish coated having similar properties that the cryo has and smoothing the piece out. If you have the option - go for it. Though according to one of their websites - only four locations in the usa provide Cryo and REM process.

200, 210, 220, 240 are stock jets w/ part #'s but really just depends on what the dealer set it up as originally. 200 is for regular temperature riding. Biggers are for colder weather or altitude changes. see service manual section 5 - 9 Welcome.

But yeah, do it. Sounds like a good deal if that's all it would take.

I got the hint that it was more expensive than that. I hadn't heard about this sort of treatment until recently I seem to have read you have to pay for the rem finish per /oz? The finish they put on the gears and pieces is to make them hold oil better. Also - plan ahead. Don't get a crank cryo-remed and then welded and trued I would ask this dude too on this forum - sign up and pm him. He gets all his transmission components cryo-remed http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/cr500-engine-build-pictorial-part-2-a-50724/ http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/92-01-cr250-engine-build-45990/ http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/1993-honda-cr250-build-finally-finished-49621-p3/

I was just looking at my friends 250r a few days ago. The motor moves to tighten the chain doesn't it? I wonder how they set it up on their frame. That is about all I can think of but maybe the Swinger has been adapted for that or I'm just wrong.

Does the one on the bottom right look like its not sealing / warn ?

Nice! I'm not quite the opinion here on the forum - there is a lot of other guys and gals who know a ton more. Only remove the boxes if you plan on keeping the carburetors. I can see your wires are clipped for the tors boxes - which is fine. That means the electronics for it are unplugged and you won't have a problem with it not sparking! You can buy the tors eliminator kit to do the whole shebang for around $50 (before shipping, maybe after if you shop) It requires you using a new throttle cable and they give you new screw caps. After that you lose some carburetor adjustment so with the kit comes a tap and an throttle stop screw ( idle screw ) You tap the carburetors to add that functionality and now your back to normal with just the pilot air screw and a throttle stop screw. To save a few bucks what I am going to do is buy the cap+throttle cable setup $30 , and the idle screws separately ( $3-$5 /piece) and save a whole $10 because I have a tap set. Then -in theory - you sync the carburetors with the slack adjusters on the top of the carburetor ( dual-carburetor motors must be sync'd really well or you can blow them up easily because one side spins up faster and the other drags behind with improper afr) and dial in your new idle screw. its all documented on here. Yeah It'll be pretty apparent if the top end has been rebuilt. Definitely go in and check the clearances for the ring end gaps, you could check the squish clearance right now while the motor is still assembled since the head was shaved. It kinda sucks picking up a useless puller just to do one job But that puller has worked on a ton of machines for me so its nice to have around also.

Looks pretty sweet. Free ? Howd you manage that? Your going to tear into it and check the work done to it? That is a great idea. Your may want to post a picture of your carburetors and outside diameters if you want recommendations as to what Intake rubbers to buy and what you can do with them. The stock Banshee carburetors have TORS. ( throttle override system) Its box on each of the carburetors that uses the sensor on the thumb throttle to detect a sticky cable so you don't accidentally get throttle unless you want it. So if your familiar with carburetors and see that - That is what those ugly caps are doing.

Is this what you are talking about? I just did this a week or two ago You must remove the screw stay and the plate ( don't lose these pieces ) I use pliers and grab the outside of the seat and pull up and wiggle. It takes a decent set of pliers. I didn't use needle nose, i used some shortys. Do not grab the Inside of the seat because it will scratch it. The new ones slide in with a crisp pop letting you know they are in all the way. then give the screw a light torque down on top of the plate. Test it out by adding some air pressure in the fuel inlet and flipping the carburetor rightside up. Something like a long hose or a friend on a bicycle pump. Make sure the needle doesn't allow air by - because if it does then your carburetor will be leaking fuel out of the overflow and running rich - from what you expect it to run.

lol I had been drinking too, Im sorry, it was a bad messup. it all doesn't mix together well when your just trying to get some sleep. I wish I could handle as much as you Ricardo but I don't think I could handle that work / school schedule. I should just stop posting but Im trying to paint a clearer image.

I definitely addressed the point about advice. I will choose my posts more wisely. OP wants to know "how this could of happened" - Read his first post Your correct on the rest.

You have the option to add me to your ignore preferences. ( located on the upper right bar under your username ) I will be a little more choosy when adding in advice, especially in a case like this because you have obviously used the mods before where as I haven't. However OP still hasn't figured out what the cause of his blown motor either. So why don't you go give him some more ideas and things to look for instead of your null posts.