KozyHeat

You peepers, share some thoughts This is a good way to store an atv ;P My bumpstop crumbled. Do I replace that then? Gonna clean all this up with some sandblast / sanding and paint Where is the other clutch vent beside the one under the water pump? I want to plug this one. Oah yeah, Im going to shave the torsbox bracket!!!! I am so daring! rate/comment/subscribe

Oah, while replacing my right side float needle, I found the seat to be in-effective with the new needle. Thats why it was leaking. Somebody scratched the seat near the bottom How do I fix the float valve seat?

I should probably give the harness some love. I wish I had some Raychem heatshrink and some wiring supplies.

I did a bad thing. Monday my parts come in and it seems like I wouldn't be able to assemble the motor, and plop it in. The cylinders are quite big... Means I have to clean all this up and get it ready for Mondays ringset + stuff

Well, keep going higher than 320 until it is 'bogging ridiculously' Except this time it won't be Lean bogging, it will be four stroking ( firing every other stroke ) because it is Rich. Then work your way down from there depending on your future mods and current ambient temperature

Ordered my parts today. Ring set, wrist pins & wrist pin bearings, circlips, & a gasket set. Also replaced the float needles. I noticed one of them liked to leak a little. BOOM Brought my cylinder to the shop and they are going to hone it to clean up the rust and bad sealing surface and get it ready for the new rings.

pistons are Wiseco Pro-lite .50mm overbores. That's okay ews.

So I tore it down today - it started to foul my plugs out. Right pipe had some liquid in it, ewww. Here is a mess of photos... ... Left side stuff ^ right side stuff ___________________ How it sits now. I checked the connecting rod ends for vertical play - None. Boy those wristpins slide from side to side a lot. I might end up Honing the cylinders & re-ringing the pistons and running them like that - cheap way out but for my riding style it will be fine. I go blast for 10-15min at a time, then I shut er down. I dont ride for hours.

Swap out radiators with your dads - that troubleshoots radiator failure. Replace it back with yours when you figure out the results - Move on after that step.

The front suspension + frame + bumper has rust in spots (Hardly damaging structurally ) Would removing that bring buyer value? Or for the time ( cost isn't really a problem ) am I better off leaving it for if I sell it? ( e.g. I would be hand sandblasting where applicable & painting frame and suspension components the same color, as long as its done carefully and not sloppily - Along with replacing j arm bushings, pulling & cleaning the motor, other various bushings bearings seals( front wheel, rear carrier, pivot ) I guess I am unsure as to what people look for in a quad. This is really old so that already doesn't help.

^ heh yeah, I ninja-edited my post after I found out that the seals have a groove in them so they don't get installed incorrectly. I would just use seal without a lip... Do I need somebody to press out the center pin of the crank to install new bearings & seals in the middle of the crank ? Ugh I should go pull the motor now ~_~;;

Yeah, I like doing crank seals. If I am at that point I might as well replace the bearings too I suppose.

Thanks for the offer. Ill go check how hard it would be to fix that tab that is broken like you mentioned. I don't know that much -- especially about this Yamaha. I'm asking an awful lot of questions. Yeah, your right camatv but why should I split the case? What would YOU replace in the internals?

I removed the left pipe today. Skirt has some shiny/wear on it but no deep gouges like I thought. The whole cylinder didn't look bad. MAYBE one distinct line in it. Rings looked like they were chrome ( shiny ) I shook the pipe out and nothing came out - I was expecting it to be filled with fuel or something. I took the banshee for a run today with a camera. If I can get to some good internet maybe I can upload it to the tube and see what you guys think. In the video Im either WOT or let off. You can hear when it works sometimes and other times it just four-strokes. I can still swap plugs to a br8es plug. but other than that - I'm stumped - pulling cylinders near in my future. Oah on my slides - are they on backwards? Do those little holes in the slides line up with the windows? I lined up the thin notch with what is inside the carburetor. If the TORS caps were on backwards, would that mess it up? I know how to install slides into carburetors, the long thin notch is for the slide guide, and the short notch is the idle screw. I think I followed that rule and installed them but maybe they should be on opposite sides so that the circles in the slides match up with the eyelets. The slides make a significant difference in fuel mixture. Ill check that next as well. also check for airleaks still. There is a company that offers these slide clips that modify the flow of air and supposedly increase performance.

520*

All I know is you want a chain with the biggest PIN diameter, you can have a stronger 420 chain than a 510 if the pin sizes are bigger. Use that as your search criteria, only some sites list them so maybe your better off calling a vendor and asking them different pin sizes off DID chains etc. Hope that gets you started. Go measure your broken ones.

Start by removing your seat Then remove your tank Then remove the caps off the carburetors Then remove the hose clamps and I removed the joints between the airbox and the carbs to make removal less stressful on the intake boots. Pull em out. I stored my parts in the airbox Finally you have a carb to play with, here is the left side Carburetor splayed out partially. Check your plastic floats, wire out and use compressed air or bicycle pump to blow out all passages. Be nice to your gaskets/rubber/viton products against cleaner left jet #200 Float setting slide holes? Also noticed this pickup tube thing circle was smushed by the jet at one point, if you tried to tighten the jet against this it would probably be spaced further away from the emulsion tube. I filed it out a tiny bit with a file to smooth the bump there. Look for shady stuff like that when messing with carbs. Here is a pictures of my reedblocks - they look like they are sealing - I didn't check if all the pedals moved. //random I want some white /blue /black headlights and blacked out front springs. Then It would be looking sick. Verified through the vin that the frame is an `89 Yep, I have to pull the top end. There is not much else to troubleshoot at this point! Bummer! Ill check to see if I have a weaker spark on one cylinder tomorrow though.

Maybe the previous owner modified the carbs to get it to run right. Far from stock. ( e.g. threw in richer components / main jet etc. ) Im going to go disassemble them right now. Otherwise Its time to tear it down tomorrow and order some parts! Be back with photos of the process

Elevation approx 1500ft didn't mean to ignore that! sorry.

Its all I had in short notice. Probably a little too cold of a heat range but Im going for two mile runs. Could it throw off everything that much? I should use a resistor plug even though the caps supposedly have built in resistors? I'd be fine with that IF that would 100% fix it! Im prepared to buy oem overbore pistons / ringsets, bring them in for a bore and hone, new gaskets. Tiny bit of porting and make sure I chamfer the port edges, check ring gap, squish, etc. Throw in some aftermarket reeds possibly. yep yep, It may come to that if the carbs don't fix it

So today I did some more troubleshooting. Started by removing the silencers. Boyo that is LOUD. Also spits black stuff all over my pants. No change Then went on to swapping out to my friends working Ign coil. No change Killswitch still didn't work Then pulled the flywheel sidecover off and started to pull the flywheel when I realized the pickup was right under the flywheel, doh. There is the timing, just retarded one degree. Also found the choke tube was missing, so I quickly cut a 2 5/8 inch piece of fuel line Cracked into the killswitch piece and fixed that by cleaning it up ??? Don't know, it just works now. Go the rear running light working, swapped cdi box. Went out for a ride... Ran really well, pulled super quick through all the gears and by the time I got down to the end of the street... out of gas! Pushed it home, filled it up with cheap gas mixed at ~40:1, and went out for another drive -- HOPING i had it fixed. Little did I know I was wrong. I went out on a longer ride ( perhaps 2.5 miles ) lots of WOT and blipping. There is a throttle delay when it is winding down, it takes a second to catch up. Top end sounds pretty nice. Low end is weak. But still not running the best. End of the day - Threw some plastics on for the night. Tomorrow - Carburetors. I did observe the throttle play / sync previously but now I will check the jets and needles, idle jets, clean it all up etc. I don't understand those little eye-holes for the slides though. They don't tell me any information really? hard to even see em.

they appeared to be a tiny bit shorter than a b9es 14mm plug thread. Then the hose was long like I mentioned. For now I guess I'll just pretend the motor is perfect and i'll move onto the flywheel trigger gap, silencer removal, swapping coils etc. The wiring is kinda sketchy. thanks for the idea though. I thought it would be around 120-160psi - does psi effect afr? I can't imagine you can get the right mix with no air cmpressed. something happened yesterday also -- the killswitch didn't work. I have the keyswitch disconnected,but I went to kill it after maybe a minute of running and it didn't die. //edit roflcopter. Missing the dang choke tube between the carbies!!! killswitch is still not working

double because forum lets you edit 10min posts 69 psi ( left ) 77 psi ( right ) Im missing a throttle cover! here is how I rigged the throttle for a WOT compression test not worth a picture, but eah maybe you've never seen the inside of a boot! I need a bunch of hardware for this Banshee. Does anyone have a list of all the hardware needed + lengths? re place all of it with allen wrenches or something? """

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1832/2compressionright.jpg 76 psi http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8288/4compressionleft.jpg 69 psi http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/825/1boot.jpg greased the boots ;P not worth the picture you say? http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5884/3compressionthrottle.jpg Im missing a throttle cover! I need a bunch of hardware for this Banshee. Does anyone have a list of all the hardware needed + lengths? replace all of it with allen wrenches or something?