KozyHeat

Exhaust ports can be too wide, I can make a port map and measure the width based off a percentage of the bore of the cylinder port timing can be calculated for the different ports using a degree wheel The ports are chamfered really well I like this persons who handled that part was skilled. Yes I understand the p2w clearance could be tight but it would be an easy fix. No, I'm not going to blow this up. Frosted flakes are awesome but contain a little too much sugar, try a small bowl and finish breakfast with something else. You know I measured the ring end gap because I wanted to figure out all these things. Come on, they will be fine. Let me get everything else within spec and give it a good chance. Do you go to your builder for advice? Well I talked to MY builder and he said he likes cast pistons more than the Wiseco forged pistons in this particular application. Do you want a picture of the porting or something? Just ask, I kinda thought you were trying to help.

I believe you all have seen many failures and I also found some broken skirts and pistons specifically with Namura. The stock pistons are cast, these are cheaper cast pistons from an island off of China's coast, Taiwan. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but look at these numbers below... there is FAR to many people who just throw some pistons in their Banshee and don't even take the time to dress the piston rings... Would it be fair to say that if I threw these in with a) Too small of gaps bottom ring gapped LESS than the top ring? it would blow up? Glad you asked. I had that written down incorrectly on my photo because I am an idiot. I am measuring in Inches. I just forgot a ZERO.. or two Right cylinder - top ring .008" / .203mm - bottom .007" / .178mm | Manual recommended - 0.012 - 0.018in Left cylinder - top ring .009" / .2286mm - bottom .0075" / .1905mm | Manual recommended 0.012 - 0.018in using the stats from the service manual or calculating it based on general guidelines Bore - 64.69mm / 2.54685" multiplied by a recommended .005" per inch it comes out to about .012" So my top rings are at .008" and .009" - That is smaller than .012" correct? I don't have that backwards do I? I am going to get another set of feeler gauges. Im running a stock cylinder setup, nothing aftermarket. A little more porting than I would have liked for my stock pipes. A pretty big exhaust and some eyebrows, and cleaned up the bump in the intake. Nothing done to the transfers. Hopefully I am just wrong though and have messed up gauges / being an idiot. On any bigger of a budget I would have gone with forged pistons, and a fresh bore on my cylinders. I couldn't do that this time. The pro-lites definitely held up to my crank wobbling around and spitting out needle bearings everywhere.

x 3 - Got some critical motor parts from him. Quick shipping, good packing. I hope I have a good time with the parts.

T for top and b for bottom gap You need the bottom ring gapped larger... Bore and pistons look really nice though - going to fix the ring end gap finish Port matching the cases ( these new cylinders match really close) Get my crank new gaskets on the case and seals, crank bearings, seal it up well. pressure and vac test it ^most important step should be ready to rip yet again.

So... I got some used cylinders. The previous owner ran really tight clearance on the ring gap. Am I measuring wrong? Still waiting on a Crankshaft.

That is a depressing story

I plan on having everything up front as well right behind the bumper where the frame is gusseted/webbed. Also the coolant res - Although many say they aren't needed. CDI and Reg will be mounted on a little plate above the resi. How are you guys routing your wiring coming out of the flywheel to the front of the bike when you do this? Would you route up the left frame tube to the middle of the frame then through the frames Loop hole under the gas tank? I need to figure out wire lengths approximately so I can start on my harness ( shrinking it in milspec raychem tubing so I got to plan it out kinda well ) It should look pretty clean without a bunch of wiring running along the stock airbox and with new wires ran it can help reduce connection issues with 20 year old wires potentially ( grounds are looking rough with the crimped connectors ) Anyone use different connectors than stock?

obvious dude is obvious

My pistons are going to be Namura ( cast ) 'high-compression' pistons. That term hurts to use... but anyway I had a stupid conservative squishband before. With these high-compression pistons are they going to sink more into the head giving me a nice squish less than ~.61mm? Do they move the piston pin or do they have a taller piston? I am trying to determine gearing as well. I have long dirt roads. Check it out. Tire setup in the rear is 18 x 10 x 10 How silly would it be to run 16/38 gearing? Would it be un-ridable and slow? I want top speed but that gearing sounds to be a little excessive and will not perform low end. I do however like to go out and do some pulls though, so maybe its alright. I hope to take off at an aggressive pace and specifically faster than Yamaha Warrior. Other than that - Its going okay on the rebuild so far. Don't know about you guys but for me it takes time.

I have seen combustion chambers, piston domes, and exhaust ports polished. Never have I seen transfers or intakes polished. Not even on the internet. Better heat transfer, less buildup / deposits, flow, and compression stays where it should be at, but it only helps so much. Try it for yourself.

I found the user manual some time ago and peeked through it... http://natedyess.com/Internship/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Manualv2.71.pdf

Rope connected to 85 horses ... I keed

Oah yeah, first picture shows how I marked the cylinder but the marker went under the paper/bled through so I wiped it off and redid it. Also I left room before the transfer was matched all the way so that I can sand / cut like crazy to get this more smooth. Second and third photo is how I modded my file. Just a cheap set from Home Depot I got a long time ago. I need to cut the smooth tip off so its just one file. I could see having a whole set of files would be nice. This one is a little rough.

Looks pretty crappy but I will get in there and clean it with some power tools. I tapered it to just under halfway down to the oiling holes. Interesting not having tried it before.

I did some case-matching by hand today with a round hand file that I heated up and curved like Jennings suggested 36 years ago... That was interesting and left the surface a little too rough. I left extra room for me to hit it with some dremel wheels to smooth it out - reluctant to post photos until I'm done because of how it looks. Tell you what I didn't do though - Didn't slip and run the bit all over my base gasket area. Plus+

Not going to get much of a response from OP ... See previous thread from the original poster right under this one. This guy may be trouble ? Cover your bases atleast and make sure you have a clear agreement or go through ebay and make sure you get delivery confirmation for postage so he has to send something if you still want it.

I had a question posted on page 5 but I found the answer in the pdf ( I couldn't load it). I wanted to open up the base gasket sealing surface because there is room and it won't leak but according to this guy who has more experience than me it will not help a stock application - need 'big bore' or stroker and even then I haven't seen it happen on the outside transfer. I suppose you want stuff mirrored on the cylinder like if you hog out the outside transfer too much you could cause ill-effects with the lack of fresh charge coming from the inner transfer. my guess.

Not much for webs out there. Plus then I still need bearings + lab seal + labor. Probably going to go with a new crank even though its the most expensive option but I will trust the components. I answered my own question about the transfer porting. Found the answer to my question in the Banshee Porting DIY - thread pdf page 16 https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=5eNaltKS9ZOTGrp0FI7cGA give it pleanty of time to load

Okay, my question was answered once I was able to open the pdf.I couldn't open the pdf before because my connection is tempermental. Today its quick. So, With a stock setup naw. http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5296/leftjz.jpg ^this black is what you don't want to mess with. Page 16 "This is what I call the lower transfer ports. You want to match the port to the case and the gasket. Making them larger than the case or the gasket at the bottom will not help you, it will cause unwanted turbulence."

You were totally right Camatv! My fault but I AM learning and having pleanty of fun. Vertically split cases are new to me and now that I realize they split within an hour I think I will do it more often. I only put new rings on the existing pistons but i was slightly mislead with re-ringing. I asked a shop about it and thought they knew how to measure correctly with a bore gauge and would take care of it. I called up a shop and they said they can weld the pins but "typically in a stock application they shouldn't rotate so I don't think your going to need it." Is the crank pin is part of the inner web then? No doubt my pin is bad on the one side then - The chunks of the washers and rollers are everywhere. I thought the kits came with new pins but that must be for the aftermarkets. E.g. a stock stroke Wiseco connecting rod kit would fit on a Stock Banshee crank but you don't use the pins in that application? it is supposed to be for an aftermarket wiseco stock crank? I may need a left hand inner web :\ News to me! Thank you for trying to help me in November Cama. Don't give up on me!

4mil you say? I would if I had pipes. There is a set of fmf's ? for $110 shipped in the buy/sell. I will keep it stock - Honestly i haven't ridden many atv's so its all new to me - A twin 350 2-stroke is probably above my head a little bit. I want to squeeze out the most power on the stock cylinders because its out of the machine right now ready for a rebuild again. Everyone was impressed with my Banshee when it was running - Why not improve the stock cylinder characteristics and do it again except this time it will run all day. Not going to sell it either. Definitely got to put it through its paces before I would feel comfortable selling it anyway. Glad it blew up on me and not after I sold it. Its really not a bad fix.

Anyone want to answer a technical 'porting' question? Specifically over @ THIS post in my fix-up thread

I am getting ready for some case cleanup. I haven't done this before but check it out. The paper template is a replica of my cylinder mating surface. the black is what I could potentially take out on the cylinder as well as the case. I still need to lay it on my case and mark it but I was just wondering about the transfers because I have seen them opened up before on other machines - but specifically not on the Banshee. I don't know the specific requirements for a gasket and how much mating surface it must have to fully seal without leaking for the base but I just picked the smallest part (approx 3.88mm) and rounded it up a tiny bit to an easy 4mm. Then I traced that around the gasket outer edge 4mm carefully.I like it but I just don't know for sure yet if I will remove that metal from my cylinder & case. There isn't any stud holes/case holes to hit if I do that. There is room - Any advice against hogging it out a bit more?

you can save maybe $10 if you do more shopping, but it doesn't come with the tap and die Motion pro throttle cap and cable kit ~ $38 Screws ~ $12 for 2 idle adjust screw kit. Bit #6, tap 6mm X .75 Your better off getting the kit

^ Put a bigger float needle for gravity fed. Pumper carburetor needles are small. So get compatible needle and seat. while your at it.