Pastrykiller

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that I have seen domes from wildcard, hjr, noss, pro design, shearer, fast....:never looked like that. So...is it Passion?

Been down this road as well. Went from a stock cylinder with t5's to a dune port with t5's. put it on shearers dyno and it pulled 56 Hp with 200 mains and 27.5 pilots. Motor is solid with no leaks and just didn't like anything over 200 mains and it had the stock airbox with pro adapter filter.

Yes but it's hard to prevent it. I got mine back and the front stud pulled right the hell our with little effort. Millennium told me why. On the other hand, my 421 needed major repairs and welds before the plating process.

Who the fuck is donut boy? Listen to what dick 5.0 says and merge the two comments together. 3.5-4.0 turns in on the idle screws should get you into a good idle range. Adjustment will have to made but you will be a lot closer than what you have now.

Be careful when you torque the cylinder down after repairs. The welding required to fix the cylinder generates a fuck ton of heat and can make the threads in the cylinder weak. It is extremely easy to pull the threads out if you apply more torque than required.

And 27.5 pilots should be where you start with the t5's. my bike stumbled on 27.5 and had to bump to 30's with cpi's. You can also note that if you get it to start and idle, turn the air screws in all the way after it starts to see if it dies. If it does then your pretty dead on with the pilot size. You adjust it to .5-1.5 turns out and listen to the idle raise or lower. If you turn the screws in all the way and it doesn't die, bump up to the next higher jet.

No tors? If not, unscrew the idle screws until the slides are all the way bottomed out. Then screw the idle screws in until you see the slides shake or move. Do not lift the slides yet. Screw each screw in 3.5-4 full rotations. Turn the air screw to 1 full turn out. It should idle with these settings. Once it idles fine, adjust the cables to allow the slides to move at the same time as well as open fully. If it won't start with these setting, take a bottle cap with gas from your tank and dump into the throat of the carbs. This should get it enough fuel to start.

I'm glad you found the problem and just follow the bottle or pump trick whm you get it all back together.

Well look at that shit.

Yes. Submerge one end in the bottle of water or fluid. The other end goes on the nipple. Make sure the nipple is open. The main goal is to have the hose submerged to prevent it pulling air back in to the line. Air will vacate the system and bubble up out of the bottle. No more bubbles and a completely filled tube is your end state.

Take the rear caliper off and unscrew the nipple. Push compressed air into the bleeder hole and the piston will pop out. Inspect the gaskets and press the piston back into the caliper. Get a bottle and fill it halfway with water. Get a rubber hose that will fit snug on the bleeder nipple and insert the other end into the bottle. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid and then pump the shit out of it. The air in the lines will push out into the bottle and will not be able to return into the lines. Do not let the reservoir go dry while u pump. It will take a minute or two to bleed them this way but guaranteed to work.

For future reference, contact your local fastenal location or place like fastenal and order a 1 meter long stick of all thread in 10.6 grade. Cost about 12.00 a stick and make your own studs. Thread a nut on it before you cut and use the nut to reset the threads.

That's little black knob on your compressor is there for a reason. Turn it down and you won't have to worry about it breaking bolts.

Impact wrench makes it easy. Take the pressure plate off and leave the clutch pack in the hub. Press one finger on the pack to keep it together and then take the nut off or put it on. It's magic....no special tool is needed unless u just want to spend money.

If you only have a few gears, I'm betting that they aren't installed in the racks correctly.

Are your shift forks in correctly?

You would be out if your mind to sell that boost bottle. That thing is the best Hp gaining mod ever sold. Buy a boost roost and add the boost bottle and you are set for success. Seriously, Thanks for the parts.

Mat, I got a set in my garage.

Are they 10.6 grade bolts? I wouldn't skimp on suspension parts. The few bucks you save might end up costing you in a hospital bill.

I have a set of vee's. they get you moving but traction isn't all that great under alot of Hp. They last a good bit but there are much better options out there

Yes

Oh they do use factory bolts. You're just missing the aluminum spacer that goes between the two Hiems.

Bump

Pm sent on case saver

These estimates are for a roundhouse swinger